About two-thirds of the way through the trip, our driver, Super Dave, pulled over to the left and pointed down the valley. The pythons were in view and what a spectacular sight they were. Mountainous volcanic spires covered in lush emeralds, the Gros and Petit Pitons, rise like rockets off St Lucia’s southwestern coast. The ridges connecting these areas, the symbol of the island and a UNESCO World Heritage site, sit above a beautiful, powder-soft bay towards which we head.
We set off just before Soufriere, the former capital of the island, whose name means ‘sulfur in the air’ in French, and started our descent towards Şeker beach and its 100-decare old sugar and banana fields. Winding through lush gardens and grounds with gingerbread-adorned white cottages perched on trees like eagles’ nests, we skipped the reception and stopped at 108, our spacious home for the next few days.
We were assigned a special ‘butler’, the brilliant Markenzie, who looked more like a special forces agent and was on the end of a mobile-type phone 24/7; and the views were so beautiful that, like lovesick youths, we spoke little else during our stay.
Framed like a postcard by the majestic Petit Piton, our terrace leads via a private walkway down to the beach with glassy jade waters below. It had a smell white water lily On a related note, the feeling was further enhanced when we donned our stylish attire for Executive Drinks on the South Pier, where guests gather to mingle over champagne and canapés at sunset every Wednesday.
Sugar Beach, of course, appeals to the honeymoon brigade thanks to the hideaway feel of its rooms, each with its own plunge pool. But there are also plenty of families (multi-generational) groups of friends and solo travelers to balance the atmosphere.
After a hearty breakfast at the old plantation house, everyone gathered at the main beach or pool to prepare their sun loungers. Kids were playing table tennis and croquet, and the younger generation was obsessed with piña coladas. Further down the beach (all beaches in St Lucia are public), locals were offering boat trips and water taxis, necklaces and tourist T-shirts, and even mixed smoothies and rum cocktails from a floating bar.
There were snorkels and masks available to borrow from the pastel pink Watersports hut to explore the marine reserve, a spectacular underwater display of tropical fish and intricate coral creatures; the more daring signed up for paddle boarding, donut drives and Hobie cat sessions. If you’re looking for a respite from the sun, you can take a new self-guided tour of Sugar Beach’s private art collection, which is located indoors and throughout its grounds and includes outdoor sculptures by artists such as Tom Sachs and Daniel Arsham; or head to the gorgeous rainforest spa for a coconut oil massage.
It’s hard to leave the resort – and I’m not usually a resort person – but I highly recommend you do it. The local area is packed with action, from mild to volcanic. Would you like to go on a sunset cruise on a catamaran? Ask your butler to arrange this. Want to cover yourself in sulfuric mud or taste chocolate? Exactly.
We may not have climbed the Pitons (we may not have brought the right shoes or mindset), but we did complete an early morning guided excursion to Tet Paul, a short and challenging hiking trail that rewards its conquerors through sweet potato and pineapple groves. An outstanding view of the Pitons from above. A chance meeting on the beach led to another highlight: a morning at sea with Shashamane, who offers water taxis and private tours of the island’s various offerings.
After cruising the cape, we hopped into Soufriere to browse the Saturday morning market, stocking up on sulfur soaps, hot sauces and local spices. We stopped for a swim in the turquoise shallow waters near Jade Mountain and followed our fishing rods with fingers crossed for a heavy catch to take back to Sugar Beach’s chefs for lunch. Nothing came out of our sticks, but it was a perfect morning.
And now for dinner. St Lucian cuisine is a testament to its history; Every mouthful bears witness to its inhabitants over the centuries. The result is a proud melting pot of Creole, British and French flavors with Indian influences, all underpinned by the natural richness of St Lucian ingredients.
During our boat trip, Shashamane headed to the Paradise Beach Hotel to taste the ‘best roti on the island’: prawns wrapped in elastic dough and swimming in a turmeric curry sauce that stained our fingertips. Back in Sugar Beach, Jalousie Grill has quickly become my favorite spot; Here we dipped our toes in the sand and feasted on grilled tandoori kingfish and garlic lobster. Otherwise, we did everything from casual to luxurious, ordering ceviche and salads to our front-row beach lounge chairs and sampling the best cuts of steak on the terrace of Saltwood, the hotel’s most elegant restaurant.
In the taxi on the way back to the airport, while Super Dave was telling us stories about the island recipes he spearfished at night and loved to cook, I made a deal to return to St Lucia. To explore a little more, eat some more roti and maybe even scale down to a Piton or two. Before bed, of course, on one of Sugar Beach’s four cloud-like posters.
Seven nights at Sugar Beach Viceroy from £3,079 per person, including international flights to St Lucia; turkuaz.co.uk