Perched serenely just outside the dusty chaos of Marrakesh, Amanjena is an orange blossom-scented mirage.
Colors become calmer, birds chirp louder, and the pace is pleasantly icy. Dive in and out of the city’s bazaars and snake charmers as you wish, knowing that an oasis awaits you. This doesn’t mean you can’t party if you have money. The night before we arrived the resort had been purchased for a wedding for which money was no object. Entertainment? This was provided by 50 Cent. David Beckham also rented it for his 40th birthday.
Where?
Twenty minutes to both the airport and the Medina. Taxis will cost 200 dirhams (about £15) one way. Amanjena is in good standing with the Mandarin Oriental across the road. Anyone who has been to Marrakech before will tell you how important it is to be able to get away from this crazy and dirty city. On clear days, the snow-capped Atlas Mountains rise in the background.
Style
Designed by Aman group’s beloved architect Ed Tuttle (who also created the vision for Amanbagh in Rajasthan, another grand dame of the group), Amanjena is a pink Moorish palace. With its marble pillars, countless smooth reflecting pools and washed clay walls, the scent of orange blossom and jasmine fills the air. Perhaps the most fragrant hotel I have ever stayed in.
You could hear a pin drop at the main pool, which is located in the center of the ‘action’, nestled serenely between the spa, gym and Japanese restaurant (the breakfast scene is also excellent).
Located on 13 acres, amenities are nearby and yet somehow you feel like the hotel’s sole guest or the queen of your own palace.
Which room?
Rooms? Ah! Aman calls them Pavilions and when you stay in an Aman you are pretty much ruined for life. Book Pavilions Piscine for an extra-large terrace, a majestic gazebo, sun loungers (complete with handy sun hats) and a private pool. Ours overlooked the adjacent lush Amelkis golf club with views of the Atlas Mountains.
Mini palaces, with the bedroom roof dramatically domed in dark wood, Berber rugs, the most exquisite lounge chair and a magnificent king-sized bed in the centre. The men’s and women’s bathrooms are large, dark pink and peaceful, complete with leather Berber slippers and traditional hooded robes. There is an open fire for staff to light on cold evenings.
We spent a lot of time reading and sleeping on our private terrace and didn’t hear a single sound other than the bell ringing as room service brought out another glass of cold rosé.
food drink
The à la carte breakfast served poolside is outstanding. Choose freshly squeezed juice, smoothie or an immune-boosting shot and get an early morning health kick; then take an early morning health kick before plating up everything from chilled orange blossom yoghurt with dates to traditional Moroccan pancakes (msemen) served with honey and argan oil. the usual Western suspects. Food delivery to your room is available at an extra cost.
Dinner can be at Japanese restaurant Nama, which serves izakaya-style sharing plates, or at the more popular main restaurant, which is an interesting hybrid of Moroccan and Italian (at least on our visit). Cloud-lit by candlelight, the booths are tucked under scalloped arches overlooking the central olive trees and gentle local musicians strumming discreetly. It’s a romantic place, when we were there more than one table was strewn with hundreds of pounds of red rose petals.
On cold nights, don’t miss a pre-dinner drink at the cozy bar with its fire, or at one of the tables next to the beautiful reflecting pool where only the cicadas sing. Non-drinkers should know that they make excellent cocktails.
extracurricular
Aman makes very good spas. The space at Amanjena is small but perfectly created with expert therapists and a hammam. The more active can make use of the property’s free bikes, play golf on the neighboring 27-hole course or play clay court tennis. The resort also has a variety of activities you can book, from food excursions to the Afagay desert and hot air balloon rides, which are always a magical experience.
Marrakech is 20 minutes away with shopping, dining (I always go to El Fenn on its sunny rooftop for lunch) and people watching.
A word about impeccable service. Careful but not nauseating, you feel lonely at the resort and yet when you need someone, they show up before the thought can even form. My sister I was traveling with broke a button on a dress and within minutes a helpful staff member arrived at our Pavilion to sew it back on. And there is a free laundry service that I wish more hotels offered. There’s nothing like returning to London with a bag full of freshly washed clothes.
Best for…
Couples – whether lovers or friends. This is an extremely quiet and relaxing property, perfect for soaking up plenty of sunshine in spring or autumn.
Detail
Curators of luxury travel, jazzenove+loyd can create perfect, personalized trips to suit your needs. A seven-night stay in Morocco, including four nights in Amanjena, return transfers and city tours, costs from £5,000 (excluding international flights).
For inspiration or to request a bespoke set jet itinerary curated by one of Cezanove+loyd’s Destination Experts, visit jazzloyd.com or call 020 7384 2332.