Like most of the best things in life, our Mumscapade was spontaneous. Five of us (a journalist, a gardener, a designer, a teacher and a soon-to-be psychologist with 10 children between them) had decided it was in order to take a break from the doldrums and tedium of winter.
Our schedules and ideas aligned. We needed sun, we needed shopping, and we needed pampering.
There was never any discussion about where to go. For us, Marrakech was the obvious choice and it felt like the right time to visit. After the devastating effects of the earthquake in the Atlas Mountains in September 2023, the city got back on its feet and started to host tourists, and new openings were also made.
We stayed at the Annex House, a standalone extension to the newly opened and stylishly restored Riad Brummell Medina, in the heart of the Medina, an easy walk from Djemaa el-Fna. Breakfast was delivered to our door every morning. In the evenings, we gathered for drinks on the roof terrace and watched the sun set behind the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque. At night, everything was quiet except for the early morning call to prayer and the occasional cat fighting.
This was an outing that was unapologetically light on culture and heavy on retail. Shopping was at the top of our agenda and the souk, one of Marrakech’s most popular attractions, was on our doorstep. Each evening, we reviewed our purchases that day or made a mental note to return to a stall (including one run by a basket vendor we named Pharrell because of his flashy hat).
In between calls we found time to get pampered in a hammam. The spa at La Sultana Hotel in the Medina’s Kasbah was an ideal location due to its underground pool and overriding sense of calm. Still, modesty was left at the door as we were ushered into the steamy embrace of the room by our therapists and laid out on the warm marble as they worked their magic, scrubbing our skin with hammam gloves and black soap and finishing with Argan oil. massage. Then, happily and blinking, we emerged into the warmth.
With temperatures hovering in the mid-20s, a day by the pool was a no-go. For this purpose, we left the city behind and set off towards the newly opened Farasha Farmhouse, a 40-minute drive. It’s the work of Rosena and Fred Charmoy, founders of Marrakech events company Boutique Souk, which has organized everything from Madonna’s birthday party to Dior’s catwalk shows.
As you can imagine, the farmhouse was designed with entertaining in mind. It’s ultra-chic in a Moroccan-meets-Ibiza sort of way and comes with a sumptuous saltwater pool surrounded by olive trees and double sun loungers under crocheted umbrellas. Even though there are four bedrooms, residents can visit on weekends for pool days and a delicious lunch: sleep poolside before heading back to town.
Eating was one of our top priorities. L’mida, tucked away in the Medina with a boho rooftop terrace overlooking the seductive spread of Marrakech, was one of our returning favorites (even the Wi-Fi password ‘ladies first’ appeared in the message of our trip). On other nights, we headed to Guéliz, which is a 10-minute taxi ride away and full of reliable, lively dinner spots.
Among them we find +61, an immigrant enclave during the French Protectorate that feels like what is now Marrakech via Melbourne. There was also Sahbi Sahbi, one of the newly opened places in the neighborhood. Featuring a zellige tiled and wood interior designed by trendy architecture practice Studio KO, the restaurant features a menu that celebrates Morocco’s dadas (female chefs who cook for their communities) with traditional recipes passed down through generations.
The four days we spent together were like one long, laughter-filled conversation. We’ve covered every topic possible, operating everything from air fryers to the best television (Bear) to our children’s cell phone addictions and the inevitable menopause.
We ended our last night on a high note by spending our last night at La Mamounia Hotel, which has been dazzling for over 100 years. We renamed it ‘La Mumounia’ and started by having drinks on the orange blossom-scented terrace of Majorelle Bar. Dinner was at Le Marocain, a restaurant buried among gardens of towering palm trees and delicate roses. Serenaded by the musicians, we calmed down enough to try the lamb brain alongside less testing dishes like tagine and couscous.
After dinner, none of us were in a hurry to go home. We took one last group selfie in the flattering light of the hotel bathroom, then wandered the quiet streets, passing the edge of the Jema al-Fna, where smoke billowed from stalls catering to late-night diners and Berber musicians played, even after midnight. to crowds of revelers. The holiday was just what we needed; so much so that we made a deal to return next year at the same time. Until then, Marrakesh, thank you Mumi.
Fundamentals
Ryanair (ryanair.com), British Airways (ba.com), EasyJet (easyjet.com), Wizz Air (wizzair.com) and Royal Air Maroc (royalairmaroc.com) fly to Marrakech from airports in the United Kingdom. A night at Annex House costs £342 for up to four people and £513 including breakfast for up to eight people (00 212 524 38 58 06, riadbrummell.brummellprojects.com). Daily entrance to Farasha Farmhouse costs £47, which includes use of the pool, towels and a three-course lunch (farashfarmhouse.com). Le Marocain and Majorelle Bar in La Mamounia (mamounia.com) are open to visitors from abroad. A hammam at La Sultana Spa costs £40 (lasultanahotels.com).
Six more mumscapade destinations
Nice, France
The multitude of hotels opening and the Old Town, now a Unesco World Heritage site, mean that Nice is no longer just a gateway to the Côte d’Azur. The new Anantara Plaza is a good place to stay (doubles from £440, room only; 00 33 4 93 16 75 75, anantara.com).
Lana, South Tyrol
Does your group emphasize brisk walks rather than booze? The beautiful town of Lana is located at the foot of the San Vigilio mountain in the Italian Dolomites: its summit, reached by one of Europe’s oldest cable cars, is equipped with hiking trails and is ideal for hiking. Stay at 1447 Reichhalter, a historic inn in the city center (doubles from £154, room only; 00 39 0473 051 050, 1477reichhalter.com).
Lisbon, Portugal
With its atmospheric, rattling trams crisscrossing the city and its many easy-to-reach destinations, Lisbon has the perfect formula for a few days away. Stay at AlmaLusa Alfama: Housed in a restored 12th-century building, this hotel is the latest opening of a stylish micro-hotel group and has a real sense of place (doubles start from £195, B&B; 00 351 21 877 0200 , almalusahotels.com).
Dunkeld, Scotland
Dunkeld is among the most beautiful villages in the Highlands, located on the River Tay, with an eclectic high street. Here, too, there are seemingly endless hiking trails with breathtaking panoramas of magnificent views. Stay at Taybank (doubles from £170; 01350 677123, thetaybank.co.uk), which has five bedrooms, two apartments and an atmospheric restaurant serving gastropub-style food.
Athens, Greece
No longer just a stop to see ancient wonders like the Acropolis and Parthenon, Athens is having a moment. It is brimming with new energy and a thriving creative scene. Stay at Ergon House (doubles from £138, B&B; 00 30 210 0109090, house.ergonfoods.com).
San Sebastian, Spain
An ideal group holiday for the food-minded, San Sebastián is the ideal base for browsing the pintxos bars in the Old Town and cycling around the surrounding coast and countryside. Stay at Room Mate Gorka overlooking Plaza Guipúzcoa (doubles from £82 per night, room only; 00 34 843 98 42 00, Room-matehotels.com).
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