Long considered one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines, Amalfi’s rugged and dramatic mountains roll towards the sea, with ruined towers, churches, multi-domed cathedrals and fondant-coloured villages clinging to their lower reaches like medieval periwinkles. Everything is beautiful, so it’s no wonder everyone wants to visit. And therein lies the problem.
In winter, most Costa Amalfitana hotels and restaurants close. In the summer months, the crowds (not to mention the heat) can be overwhelming. You can’t make your way through small towns or the narrow, winding roads between them, especially when cruise ships line up in the nearby port of Naples and literally thousands of passengers pile onto buses around the hairpin bends at Lattari. (Milky) Mountains Nature Park leads towards that exquisite coastline.
However, there is a moment when you can make this place very close to you. And that moment is now.
Amalfi itself is a town and also a coastline. From my balcony at the elegant Hotel Santa Caterina, I could look out over the terraces of pink, cream and ocher houses above the small harbour, the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Salerno and the oranges and oranges crammed into every available space. lemon trees were weighed down with fruit, especially at this time of year.
Amalfi lemons (known as) Sfusato Amalfitano) is huge, highly prized by chefs for its intense flavors, and used by local ice cream vendors as a rather attractive container for that gelato al limone. But you’d expect Amalfi’s flavors to be as delicious as its coastline. Besides lemons, you will find the freshest seafood, soft Mozzarella di Bufala cheese, the finest pizzas, pastas, risottos and irresistible pastries. And of course, Amalfi is home to that incredibly delicious elixir known as limoncello.
As fascinating as it is to taste these delicacies while watching the world go by at a table on a cobblestone street, Amalfi is much more than a pleasure for the senses. In fact, it has an unexpectedly important place in Mediterranean history. It was a Maritime Republic long before Venice ruled. In the 9th and 11th centuries, it managed the transportation of the region, the trade in grain and slaves, silk and timber extending to Egypt and Syria.
The resulting wealth built a magnificent cathedral with distinct Arab and Byzantine influences. They could even meet the remains of St. Andrew, the first apostle of Jesus, buried in the fantastically ornate crypt of the cathedral, where the “manna” from the grave sweated into a crystal light bulb for nearly 750 years. (No one is exactly sure what this is, but it is generally considered a sign of grace.)
Nearby towns and villages are easy to reach at this time of year; This is no small thing, as driving times quadruple in the summer. The closest is Atrani, a tiny fishing village that is one of the smallest in Italy but still has its cliff-top cathedral. Minori is famous for its beautiful beach backed by a charming promenade. Nestled in the hills, Ravello has breathtaking views of the coastline, and Villa Rufolo, a palace that in its 13th-century heyday boasted more rooms than any other day of the year, has gardens as beautiful as those declared by Wagner on his visit. It will be the example of “Klingsor’s magic garden” in 1880.
But the best way to explore the coast, with its impressive mountains, caves, bays, secluded beaches and docks, is definitely by boat. This, of course, was how the ancient Greeks and Romans used to reach the beautiful nearby town of Positano, a popular holiday destination in the ancient world.
The Li Galli archipelago was the legendary home of Homer’s sirens, and one of its islets was acquired by Ballets Russes dancer Léonide Massine and, after her death, was acquired by Rudolf Nureyev. Nowadays, it only takes 30 minutes to reach Positano by ferry from Amalfi, and there are also ferries from Amalfi to Naples, Salerno and the Island of Capri.
At this time of year, the Mediterranean waters sparkle in the sunlight as Amalfi wakes up refreshed after its short winter sleep. Then it’s the perfect moment to heed the call of the sirens and step into the spring sunshine in a place where la vita is as sweet as you wish.
Fundamentals
Anna Selby was a guest at Hotel Santa Catarina (hotelsantacaterina.it), which has double rooms from £388 per night including breakfast.
Various airlines fly to Naples from the UK; these include EasyJet from London Gatwick (fares from £16 one-way; easyJet.com); Ryanair from Manchester (from £23 one way; ryanair.com) and TUI from Glasgow (from £10 one way; tui.co.uk). EasyJet will also fly from London Gatwick to the even more affordable Salerno twice a week from 13 July.