I don’t remember the last time I went to Hotel Endsleigh but I’ve had a husband before and I didn’t like it. My friend at the time certainly shaped that impression, and a rough calculation suggests it wasn’t that long ago when it first opened in 2005. A lifetime ago. I’m not the same person anymore. I feel like he’s waiting for me.
I remember how much attention the interior designer turned hotelier Olga Polizzi attracted by transforming Orné, an early 19th-century country house in Devon, into a simple and gorgeous retreat with views across the River Tamar to Cornwall. However, on my first visit I thought it was a bit boring. By staying with the right person this year, I understood the nuance.
It was originally designed as a modest getaway for the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, who lived in dizzying opulence most of the time with their 13 children at Woburn Priory. Olga and her daughter Alex rolled the dice on what could have been a temporary money pit, tackled the renovation of the Grade I listed building and turned it into what I understand is now one of the best hotels in Europe.
There’s no lively bar scene here, and pulling out a laptop from anywhere might seem ridiculous (Wi-Fi is patchy anyway and there’s no phone signal). There is a comfortable silence in Endsleigh, interrupted only by the crackling of burning logs in the various fireplaces, or the click of the well-groomed paws of a large greyhound as it walks across the wooden floor. Every chair is comfortable, every wood-panelled room is a thing of beauty. When someone brings you a martini while you read one of the PG Wodehouse novels from the various shelves, it’s easy to imagine that this is the life for you. You think you should leave the city immediately and buy a summer house.
When I went for a walk after a breakfast of boiled eggs with the soldiers, I went through the gardens, through the forest, along the river and towards the waterfall, and I was struck by this very thought. And I’m a religious town mouse. I hate the countryside. But the dream of a beautiful day out at Endsleigh, with its stunning grounds, gorgeous interiors and lovely staff refreshing your glass, is irresistible. Every ornate leaded window panel, every architectural folly and grotto outside, every antique map hanging in the hallway and framed botanical artwork behind a velvet sofa all contribute to something as pleasurable as that first cold sip of truly good champagne.
I was staying in the new Lady Olga Suite, which used to be a stable block. When we first arrived I didn’t realize we had the entire area to ourselves; The stairs seemed to lead to several suites, but the bedroom, kitchen, lounge and bathroom with giant slipper tub and upholstered furniture (a true sign of both luxury and irresponsibility) belonged to Lady Olga. This is the house you’ve been dreaming of for country living, with green paint, leaf-print wallpaper, a pillow-top bed covered in yellow peony-patterned fabric, and a hidden TV inside.
Every detail of the interior is delightful, from the colorful mugs next to the coffee machine to the antique garden statues and busts that now live inside. Every day the gardener puts wildflowers in vases around the rooms and the whole place smells amazing, like the strongest but more village manor scented candle.
During my stay, I posted some pictures on social media of an early 19th-century hand-blocked bird-and-twig wallpaper and details of a 1970s-style fabric (a textile) hung over the front door to stop drafts. Apparently Olga was found as a relic in London). I received a ton of messages, each saying the same thing: “You’re at my favorite hotel in the country!”
Having had many disappointing and largely ostentatious meals at other lovely country hotels in England, I was surprised at how good everything was from the kitchen at Endsleigh (apart from a coffee and so many croissants). At lunch it’s pork belly, super crispy elements that play against the fat (and a dreamy pinot noir), and at dinner it’s a large but artfully arranged platter of Creedy Carver chicken with glazed Jerusalem artichokes (and a few glasses of buttery chardonnay).
Every few seconds here I would accidentally find something surprising to enjoy, including silver teapots with spouts that looked like dinosaur necks. Nothing here is too pure. The patina is intentional. Much thought was given to the selection (colour, texture and origin) of each object in the house. I’m angry at myself for not understanding all this sooner. This is truly excellent interior design and service. This is what a luxury adult hotel should aim for.
Fundamentals
Double accommodation at Hotel Endsleigh (01822 870000; thepolizzicollection.com/hotel-endsleigh) starts from £270 per night including breakfast. There is a fully accessible suite. Mark C O’Flaherty traveled as a guest of GWR (gwr.com), which operates regular services from London Paddington to Exeter St Davids for £29 one way, with the fastest service taking two hours.