How to enter Berghain? This is the multi-million euro question that has eluded clubbers since the venue opened its doors in Berlin in 2004. Chief bouncer Sven Marquardt, who curates the crowd, and his gang of German enforcers are in charge. And they do it with such ferocious determination that they leave about half of those who try to get out in the cold.
On a cold Saturday night, the Berghain queue stretches, as it does every weekend, for more than 800 meters through the industrial area on the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain. We can hear the bass coming from the scary building ahead. The atmosphere of the queue intensifies as you approach the door. Any chatter or mirth that existed further back disappears.
Most of those queuing are wearing Berghain uniforms, which are black and leather. Many carry backpacks, possibly filled with food and drink, to make ends meet while waiting in lines for up to six hours.
In the surrounding area, small groups gather to discuss tactics while sipping Berliners. Taxis take rejected souls to other places. Or possibly home to bed.
Luckily I won’t be joining the mainline. I’m on the guest list. I wade through the bookies to join a significantly shorter queue. My smugness turns to anxiety as I walk down the dirt road surrounded by metal fences on both sides. I was warned that being on the guest list does not guarantee acceptance, and even seasoned Berghain customers are occasionally turned away.
The extent of the secrecy around the gate has even led to the founding of BerghainTrainer.com, which allows potential candidates to test their techniques in an online simulation. When I talk to dozens of people about how to be successful, the takeaway is: Don’t get too drunk, avoid large groups, speak German, know who’s playing that night, and wear black.
Other suggestions include looking as bored as possible, shaving your head, and never, ever smiling. If you look like a tourist, that’s a no-no. If you look like you’re trying too hard, that’s a no. If it looks like you’re not trying hard enough, that’s a no. But as long as you relax, it’s okay. So relax.
There is a metal barrier in front of the queue. The hopefuls are then invited to approach the gatekeepers in small groups. A group wearing denim shorts and football tops are quickly shot down with the bouncers’ signature phrase, “Not tonight.”
A man who looks the part and is in his mid-20s (apparently the most desirable age range) is greeted with a “Hi” to which he responds in kind and is then told to leave. As the unsuccessful candidate walked away, the security muttered something among themselves and they all started laughing. Some suspect that doormen reject people just for their own amusement.
Now it’s my turn. I left the conversation to my German friend and it turns out that he and the guy who took us out were from the same city. We all go through further questioning.
Inside, your body is searched for sharp objects and small circular green stickers are placed on your phone’s camera. There are no photos at Berghain. The entrance fee is €35 and you are given a vintage orange wristband with the club’s logo and the image of a sheep printed on it several times. I wonder what they’re trying to say.
When you enter the next room, you encounter dozens of people undressing. Their backpacks turned out to be full of alternative clothing. People have line clothes and Berghain clothes, and the latter definitely means less clothes. A popular choice is to wear something on your lower half and nothing else.
Everyone who checks their bag and coat (2.50 euros) is given a black necklace with a metal pendant with a number on it. It’s a bit like a cult.
Inside, the club consists of two parts: First, the Panorama Bar is opened as a warm-up for the main event, Berghain. The dark, smoke-filled room is illuminated with red lights. Berlin’s signature sound, Tekno, blasts through one of the club’s famous high-fidelity sound systems and everyone has a good old boogie.
In the blink of an eye, it’s five in the morning but things are just getting started. Berghain is famous for its durability. This weekend the club opened on Friday night and will remain open continuously until 12pm on Tuesday.
If you can’t get in, there are around 140 other clubs in Berlin that will be happy to meet your needs. This is one of the reasons why 12.1 million people visited the city last year and 29.6 million stayed overnight.
Berlin’s vibrant club culture is one of the city’s biggest draws. This was highlighted when the Berlin techno scene received Unesco cultural heritage status in March, marking its cultural contribution to the city.
The Berlin Club Commission said it was “another milestone for the city’s techno producers, artists, club operators and event organisers”. The latest announcement follows the German federal parliament’s decision to make Berlin clubs “cultural institutions” in 2021. These clubs, previously considered entertainment venues along with brothels and casinos, now have the same legal status as museums and opera houses.
These two moves mean clubs are entitled to tax breaks, planning protections, subsidies and other funding to protect against rising costs.
The measures have helped preserve the health of Berlin’s nightlife in a challenging environment where venues are becoming crowded late at night in London and Europe. In fact, the latest data from the Night Time Industries Association revealed that 3,011 businesses have closed in London since March 2020.
Berlin’s nightlife doesn’t appear to have suffered in the same way. It seems that recognizing the importance of these areas is key to this.
Unfortunately, despite all my efforts, I did not have the energy to stay until the Berghain section of Berghain opened. The next day I packed up and went back to the club.
I will be joining the “re-entry” line on Sunday at 6pm. Berghain has a policy of allowing you to log in again for €5 if you have already logged in at some point during the weekend in question. This allows partygoers to relax, do their laundry, feed the cats, and then continue the party.
This time I pass without saying a word and arrive at Berghain around 21:00 in the evening. Tonight the outfits are more extreme. Gangs of men with shaved heads wearing bondage gear and offal masks march towards the main part of the club. The club’s high ceilings and massive scale are impressive. It’s hard not to feel dizzy.
There is a wraparound steel balcony overlooking the main dance floor. From there you can see hundreds of people dancing to electronic music in a trance-like state. It’s incredibly hot and busy, but there’s such enthusiasm in the air, you get excited, it’s so alive.
A few hours later I left the club spellbound. Berghain exceeded all my expectations. It definitely lives up to its reputation. Walking around that building while listening to that music among the revelers dedicated to the night gives the place an energy I haven’t experienced anywhere else. Maybe the bouncers are onto something.
The truth is, there is no secret way to get past the bouncers. It’s a roll of the dice. Regulars say the more you go, the more likely they are to let you in. I think bouncers are largely asking if you look like you should be there to them. Will you contribute to the right overall energy?
The point is: give Berghain a try. Follow the tips and enjoy the process. In the worst case scenario, you’ll have an anecdote and if things go as planned, you’ll have the time of your life. A win-win in my book.
