Counting the colors in Bacalar Lake was now becoming an obsession. I was sipping coffee on the deck with a young woman who clearly knew the Pantone charts. “This is a Bluefish switching to Reflex,” she said. It’s easy to see why Bacalar is known as Laguna de Siete Colores (lagoon of seven colors).
The town is located at the farthest tip of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, near the Belize border and a simple four-hour drive from Cancun. Eventually, the shoulder-to-shoulder all-inclusive resorts of the Riviera Maya disappear, revealing a sleepier, slower-paced Mexico.
People are constantly trying to outshine Chimneys. Called New Tulum and the Mexican Maldives, this region has historically been popular with backpackers, but it has become much more than that. This small town with a large lagoon has its own atmosphere and character.
Bacalar was appointed Pueblo Magico (magical town) by the Mexican government for its cultural, historical and architectural significance. It’s a sleepy place that still feels local. Copal smoke (lit to keep mosquitoes away) rises from buckets. Dogs wander on the sidewalk. There are a few boutiques selling chic beachwear, incenses and crystals (so is Tulum), but shopping isn’t the main draw here.
Still the most popular street food marquises (crispy rolled crepes filled with Nutella, cheese or fruit) and elite (Mexican corn on the cob), new eateries are pushing the boundaries.
El Manati, an immersive café/art gallery/boutique, is perfect for breakfast or brunch. Nao Bacalar is the place for yoga classes as well as sushi and cocktails (owner Oscar knows his appetizers, too), while Barba Negra serves great fish tacos. Jaguara is a hopelessly romantic lakeside spot serving fresh fish, fabulous ceviche, and hibiscus-heavy cocktails.
But for truly creative Mexican food, there’s Nixtamal. Fish on a bed of grilled watermelon with parmesan, pesto and picante sauce? Honestly incredibly good. Everywhere you go, a generous bowl of freshly cooked nachos, salsa and guacamole suddenly appears. Staying hungry is not an option.
There’s a castle and a museum, but no one actually comes here for a history lesson; It’s all about the lake, it’s 37 miles long and just over a mile at its widest point. Because underground rivers feed it, you’ll find regular sinkholes and sinkholes that can go as deep as 300 feet. You can swim and SUP (Stand up paddleboard); snorkel and dive; Borrow a canoe or take a sightseeing cruise to the most beautiful spots.
But be careful. Chimneys are famous for stromatolites, rock-like structures formed by microbes that date back 3.5 billion years; These structures are the oldest evidence of life on Earth. They look like giant cauliflowers jutting up through the water and are highly susceptible to damage to the environment.
A pollution warning was issued for the lake in 2015, and by 2020 the lake, whose water is turquoise, cyan and turquoise, was in danger of turning into a dirty brown lake. Fortunately, thanks to increased awareness and interest, Chimneys are in retreat.
As part of this movement, new hotels tend to specialize in sustainable architecture and regenerative hospitality that supports the local community while protecting nature. Naya Bacalar opened a year ago as an eco-chic enclave of eight tented jungle rooms (some with plunge pools). Five more lakeside rooms will soon be added.
Boca de Agua, meanwhile, opened in October 2023 on 82 acres of largely untouched land that will form a program of preservation and restoration. Not a single mangrove plant was removed or damaged in the building. Its architect, Frida Escobedo, opted for tropical modernism, with 26 sprawling treehouses made of local Forest Stewardship Council-certified chicozapote hardwood, rising on stilts above the forest floor. The Mexico City architect is known for his urban designs, including the Serpentine Pavilion in London in 2018 and the new contemporary art wing at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.
I stayed at our Habitas Bacalar. This outpost of the sustainable luxury brand (one of four in Mexico) has a similar feel to Naya. More than 30 tented rooms float above the ground, minimizing impact on the landscape. Some hang over the lagoon, but my room was in the jungle and only occasionally overlooked by monkeys. The construction here may be light on terrain, but it’s heavy on creature comforts; handmade rugs, blankets and cushions keep things cozy; Mini bars are well stocked and outdoor showers are powerful. At night, tiny candles illuminate the winding path to your door.
When you’re not in your room, paddleboarding is a good way to explore the bays around the lagoon; some have small piers; others with hammocks swinging over the water.
A movement class (yoga, mindful movement, dance) takes place at the civilized time of 9 am. Afterwards, breakfast, like all food here, consists of generous portions of unpretentious, perfectly cooked local produce. All the usual hipster options appear (avoid the toast, chia pudding) but also chilaquiles (tortilla with avocado, tomato, egg; looks a bit like breakfast chips) and motuleno toast (fried egg with black beans, cheese and cream). Smokey for lunch or dinner chickenpox Beef tataki (like ceviche but with shrimp) and fish cooked on wood fire are especially delicious. The deck is the only place for sunsets, and Baja el Sol (mezcal, lemon and red pepper syrup) creates a warm glow in the cold of the night.
The group activities here have a true “Tulum” feel to them; sound healing, crystal canoeing, water meditation. But the tezcal ritual goes deeper. This is a traditional Mayan ceremony held in a small, pitch-dark hut lined with brightly woven blankets, a close cousin of the North American sweat lodge. Ceremonies can last several hours; the heat is intense and these are just physical challenges. Temazcal is traditionally a ritual of salvation; Guided by letting go of fear and everything that’s holding you back Temazcalera or Temazcalero (shamans).
Days followed as I did less and noticed more: a vine full of baby blue flowers above the reeds; a bow-legged iguana; Another shade of lake blue.
On my last evening in Bacalar, I sat on the dock and watched the moon move across the lake. “Sailor Blue and Abalone,” I said to myself, then pushed the thought out of my mind. You really shouldn’t label the spell.
Jane Alexander was a guest at Our Habitas Bacalar, which offers doubles from $265 (£210) including breakfast and a weekly program of events. Temazcal ritual costs $90 (£71) per person.