Grenoble is a destination that exceeds expectations. It has a terrible reputation. It was the first place I stayed when I moved to France. When I was considering whether to live there or in Lyon, an hour away, people’s reactions said it all.
“Why do you live in Grenoble?” they asked. “The pollution is terrible, there are gangs, this is the mafia stronghold of France.”
But naysayers might be surprised to learn that Grenoble was actually ranked the world’s best city for quality of life by Oxford Economics’ Global Cities Index. It received a full score: 100/100, surpassing 999 other cities on the list and taking the top spot.
In the “quality of life” category, life expectancy, per capita income, income equality, housing expenses, entertainment and cultural areas and internet speed were taken into account.
I’m not surprised that Grenoble came out on top. Rather, its decrepit reputation and supposedly high pollution levels (which have greatly decreased since the election of a green mayor) have served to hide the world’s most livable city from the masses.
Affordable and affordable alternative
Money can’t buy happiness, but affordable rentals definitely help. The average rental cost per square meter in Grenoble is 13 Euros (£11), which works out to around 640 Euros (£540) per month for the average unfurnished flat in the city. Compare this to Paris (€1,599 / £1,345) or even my neighbour, my home Lyon (€843 / £710) and you get much more bang for your buck.
In the “Recreation” category, the green areas in and around the city were undoubtedly a major factor in the city’s placement at the top. Grenoble is surrounded by three French regional parks: Vercors, Chartreuse and Belledonne. The first two have ski resorts, and the closest slopes to Grenoble city center are just 20 minutes away by car. Midweek cable car passes are ridiculously cheap compared to the rest of the Alps (starting from as little as €15/£13). It’s not unheard of for locals in Grenoble to book a day off work when a bluebird day is predicted and hit the slopes without the crowds, for a small fee; For many, this is part of the answer to a better quality of life.
During the summer months, the same parks host incredible walking and cycling routes. The Cirque de Saint-Même waterfalls in Chartreuse Regional Park are a personal favorite and a route I return to many times. For families, there’s an easy 30-minute trail from the car park, or you can take on a more challenging four-hour hike from Saint-Pierre-d’Entremont.
The views in the city are also spectacular; best from the Bastille Fortress, reached by an hour’s uphill walk from town or by cable car (included in the handy G-Pass city card). At street level, the Musée de Grenoble has an excellent collection of 20th-century art, including numerous works by Matisse, Picasso and Warhol. Grenoble is at its liveliest after dark. The student population is 65,000, making up 40 percent of the city.
It remains attractive
These words may sound a bit empty coming from someone who left Grenoble and chose Lyon. Marion Grand, program manager at Grenoble IAE (one of the city’s universities), studied in the city and returned home after a brief stay in Paris. Much of Grenoble’s liveability comes from being the first French city to elect a green mayor in 2014, she believes.
“Many more bike paths have been built and the tram system has been improved,” says Grand. “I travel to and from the campus entirely by bicycle, on green, well-maintained bicycle paths. Very nice! The same thing happens when I go into town, there are bike paths everywhere.”
For Grand, it’s the combination of nature on his doorstep and lack of pretension that makes Grenoble a great place to live.
“You can go all out in Quechua from head to toe [Decathlon’s own brand] and no one bats an eyelid,” he said. “While I’m not particularly sporty, it’s hard to argue with the variety on offer, whether it’s skiing, climbing, hiking or just stunning lake views.”
Dressed in lycra and clip-on shoes, a snow suit and even a police uniform, Grand knows the best place for after-work drinks.
“1900 on Notre Dame Square is an institution. “The owner, Fabio, has been there for at least 30 years,” he said. “You get a very mixed customer base. “Recently I saw a professional hockey player, an actor and a police officer drinking their signature cocktail together: Le P’tit Vélo.” Another local secret to the perfect life.
Our insider’s guide to Grenoble
best restaurant
On a nice day, there’s no better place than the Canopy (a short distance south of the city centre), whose roof boasts a 360-degree panorama of the surrounding mountains. The three-course lunch menu costs just €22 (£19). Et Si, the town’s pocket-sized bistro, uses fresh, seasonal produce and always has great vegetarian dishes.
best event
In Grenoble this needs to be an active activity. Canoe Grenoble offers guided evening canoe trips on the Isère River in the heart of the city, taking in the buildings illuminating as dusk falls and the brooding skyline of the surrounding mountains.
Where to stay
For adrenaline junkies, nothing is better than spending a night in a tent suspended from a cliff face: the brand new camping experience offered by the École de Porte. The view pales in comparison, but if you don’t want to spend the night dangling in space, my favorite Grenoble hotel is the Art Deco 1924. It’s just minutes from the train station and double rooms start from €87 (£73). one night, with breakfast.
How to get there
Seasonal flights (December to April) serve Grenoble Isère Airport from Bristol, Gatwick and Luton. Throughout the year, direct trains from Paris Gare de Lyon take three hours. Ticket prices from London St Pancras to Grenoble via Paris via Trainline start from £61 one way.