MILAN — Convenience and wearability were on the minds of designers here last week. A tour of the city’s showrooms and presentations during Milan Men’s Fashion Week offered plenty of options aimed at elevating the closet with approachable pieces, whether for someone looking for timeless sophistication or looking to capitalize on trends.
Here, WWD rounds up the must-have essentials when building a wardrobe for spring 2025.
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Knitting: Massimo Alba
Even in a collection dominated by versatile jackets and lightweight suits rendered in a stunning color palette of soft pink, beige, mustard, copper and blue tones, Massimo Alba’s expertise in knitwear shined through. This season, the designer showcased innovative uses of linen and mulberry silk in timeless crew neck and cardigan styles, while blending mulberry silk with organic cotton in the Jacob V-neck knit, which is indispensable for ideal transitional weather with its casual elegance.
Camping Shirt: Altea
There was an artistic atmosphere in the Altea collection and presentation, which was staged at the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi and featured the artworks of Jamaican-born, France-based artist Danny Avidan. But it was an exhibition of works by Italian painter Giorgio Morandi that inspired creative director Luigi Fila to favor muted, muted tones, adding a serene edge to relaxed tailoring, lightweight shirts, loose trousers and artfully crocheted knits. To add a little whimsy, he added muslin camp shirts emblazoned with original nature-inspired prints.
Leisure Dress: Slowear
Traditional suits have become comfortable and breezy this season, even among the most traditional menswear players. At the intersection of workwear and pajama styles, Slowear took the concept one step further by introducing a casual suit consisting of straight-leg trousers and a slim shirt instead of a blazer. Produced from technical yarn blended with cotton and available in a wide range of colors, this product has been complemented with Bermuda shorts, jogger pants and a bowling shirt from the same fabric, making it a travel wardrobe in itself. Likewise, a functional set consisting of wrinkle-free technical trousers compatible with a blazer, bomber jacket and coat allows customers to personalize their clothes according to the usage situation. Slowear – home of trouser manufacturer Incotex; Zanone knitwear; In addition to Glanshirt and Montedoro outerwear, Officina Slowear accessories and shoes are gradually trying to move from being an umbrella of different brands to becoming a harmonious menswear brand based on comfortable elegance.
Jeans: Jacob Cohen
Denim continues to dominate at Jacob Cohën. The brand specializes in fabric, and this season artistic director Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle pushed the boundaries of experimentation even further with cuts and treatments, including blending organic cotton and lyocell in Sean’s five-pocket trousers. Denim shirts and jackets have been added to the line of quality polo shirts, suede jackets and crisp trench coats that Tommasi Bardelle continues to expand to deliver total looks. More is expected to come, as at the end of last year the company took full control of JC Industry, which previously handled its production and distribution, and brought such operations in-house.
Meanwhile, the brand has collaborated with upcycling denim brand Scpt to breathe new life into 1,416 pairs of jeans, which failed Jacob Cohën’s high-quality standard tests but were gifted and reinvented with the couture-like pieces on display at the presentation here.
Striped Shirt: Harmont and Blaine
On the streets of Milan during fashion week, Gen Z was already wearing oversized, buttonless versions and oxford shirts with ribbed tops. Although the Harmont & Blaine spring collection was more traditional, there were plenty of summery options available, from multicolored striped styles to simpler gingham designs. Inspired by designs from the 90s in the brand’s archives, the shirts harmonized with the expanded beachwear collection in line with the season’s optimistic “Summer Enthusiasm” theme. The overall holiday vibe, with a nod to Capri and other summer destinations, was further enhanced by popsicle-colored, tie-dye-like and bandana prints on sweaters and short-sleeved shirts.
Suede Jacket: Brett Johnson
Suede dominated the outerwear category at Milan Fashion Week, with American designer Brett Johnson featuring handsome models with a silky touch and 3D-effect patch pockets; This detail was scattered throughout the collection and was used instead of the logo on accessories. Suede bomber jackets featured hoodies and canneté waistbands on both sides, while the blazer version featured subtle useful details such as zippered pockets. Overall, inspired by Johnson’s trip to the opulent seaside resort of Portofino, recreated in the presentation setting, the collection continued to highlight the designer’s commitment to craftsmanship and a quiet luxury aesthetic.
Tracker Trousers: Fila+
Fila+, the more trend-focused and luxurious line that was based on a modernization of the archives and debuted in January, upgraded one of its hero pieces, moving towards high-end interpretations of the acetate tracksuit that was slightly roomier with hand-tailored trousers and featured the Fila flag. F-Box logo. Paired with cable knit sweaters, it provided a cool and stylish look. Fila+ creative director Lev Tanju, founder of the British streetwear brand Palace, transported the guests of the presentation to the early 90s, recreated apartment rooms with old furniture and had models and real people of all ages pretend to play cards at a table and listen to music. listening to music in their teenage bedroom or knitting one of Fila+ knits on the couch.
Workwear Jacket: Carrer
Marc Forné and Manu Rios know a thing or two about style. They’d seen enough fashion shows and traveled the world to have mastered the art of packing in the blink of an eye, jumping from front row to front row. Reflecting their packaging practices, choosing basic pieces that can be easily put together and put together echoes the spirit with which the Spanish duo launched the Carrer brand last year, which relies on wardrobe staples with a utilitarian flair and streetwear sensibility.
The range included corduroy knits, slim shirts, slim-fit tank tops, fleece hoodies and ripstop cargo pants, as well as parkas and versatile workwear jackets such as the Barrau design, which quickly became one of the label’s best-selling products with its distinctive look with cargo pockets. and an attainable price point of around 250 euros.
“Our goal was to provide access to our wardrobe and provide styles that make it possible. [customers] don’t think too much, but look good,” Forné said of the brand’s mission, which has been in the works for two years.
Sleeveless Top: Cultura
Cultura used ’80s-inspired volumes and stone embellishments on tank tops, safari jackets and cargo pants. Inspired by the Paris-Dakar Rally race, the brand mixed sand tones inspired by the local cultures of the desert with color-blocked stitching. Prints depicting desert landscapes and numbered patches paying homage to automobile and motorcycle rivalries were also integrated.
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