From the terrace of my room, the sky looks the same shade of blue as the waters of the Adriatic Sea. My sapphire-coloured canvas is interrupted by a lush green mountain from which terracotta-coloured roofs jut out. The peace of this quiet corner of Montenegro is often disturbed by a small boat or a large cruise ship, but this never lasts for long.
In the distance, the permanent mountain ranges and valleys between which the sun eventually settles are a landscape of infinite beauty that fascinated writer George Bernard Shaw and actress Sophia Loren and led One&Only to choose this privileged location for its first property in Europe.
Where?
Located in the seaside town of Hercog Novi, as part of the Portonovi development, the hotel is located on a former military base alongside a French Riviera-style marina filled with superyachts, luxury villas for private purchase, apartments, art galleries and trophies. -winning quality restaurants.
With access by road, sea and air, getting here couldn’t be easier. We drove along a scenic road from Dubrovnik and it took an hour. Alternatively, you can get off at Tivat (50 minutes) or Podgorica Airport (2.5 hours).
Just 10 minutes away, the historic old town boasts the ruins of a castle built by Bosnian king Tvrtko I in 1382. As you walk along the cobblestone paved area, relics from its turbulent past under the rule of the Turks, Austrians, Venetians and Spaniards are on display. streets. Bloody Kula, meaning bloody tower, was built under Ottoman rule, and the St. Archangel Church (Michael Crkva Sveti Arhangel Mihajlo) in Belavista Square dates from the Austro-Hungarian period.
Style
One&Only Portonovi’s design and architectural influence draws from Montenegro’s Venetian and Byzantine roots. The sumptuous reception area, where white embroidered curtains dance with the slightest breeze and sparkles of Murano glass, is a wonderland of art and craftsmanship, with extraordinary pendant lamps wrapped in twisted branches, opulent marble fireplaces and elegant chandeliers.
A similar style prevails in the rest of the hotel, where high ceilings, arches and earth colors bring to life the green of the mountains and the blue of the sea.
“We researched the historical and cultural aspects of the destination,” says Jean-Michel Gathy, legendary principal designer at award-winning hospitality and design consultancy Denniston.
“Located on the Silk Road, Montenegro was greatly influenced by the Ottoman presence. Different buildings are articulated among themselves, creating a vibrant whole with columns, galleries and cornices supported by consoles on top. The garden is reminiscent of Venetian classicism from afar, but it is much more fanciful than it seems,” says Gathy. And so they do. Perfectly manicured green areas, planted with fragrant flowers and palm trees, line all the roads, hiding some structures from view and highlighting others.
Which room?
The year-round resort features 113 luxurious guest rooms, suites and villas, as well as 10 private homes, with stunning views of the Unesco World Heritage-listed Bay of Kotor. Each room has a balcony overlooking the gardens or the deep blue sea, or both. Outside the main building, there are several more intimate villas with six to eight rooms, each with its own private pool and accessible only to guests from the building.
The rooms have a modern design in three main tones: grey, brown and beige. The customized wall unit features a minibar stocked with premium drinks, a study, and a curated coffee table book on cocktails and art.
While the living space has a simple and masculine taste, the bathroom is everything you could wish for. The spacious room, brightly lit through a glass window overlooking the bay, is complete with a daybed, a bathroom that converts into another daybed, shower, wardrobes, dressing table and two vanity units.
food drink
One&Only Portonovi has three on-site restaurants, each specializing in different cuisines and with matching décor. Japanese beach club Tapasake combines small-plate dining with subtle Asian fusion flavors. From sashimi to poke bowls, there are plenty of seafood delicacies fresh from Montenegrin waters, and other ingredients come from local farms whenever possible. The interior design is sophisticated using reclaimed wood, dark wood and stone with oriental touches. In keeping with the rest of the theme, the furniture is all grey, with a touch of orange on the soft furnishings. Tapasake has a relaxed Ibiza-style atmosphere, both day and night.
Located in the center of the resort, La Veranda is an all-day restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu is inspired by traditional and European cuisine, serving everything from beef and lamb to meat. to the ice, a local garlic mixed seafood dish cooked with red sauce. Ask the sommelier for the perfect wine pairing.
Right on the sand is Sabia, the beach and poolside Italian restaurant with panoramic views of the Bay of Kotor. Upon arrival, there is a lovely display of freshly prepared penne, spaghetti and tagliatelle waiting to be covered in delicious sauce. A steaming hot plate of carbs is what you need for a pleasant evening by the sea. When you’re done, retreat to the cozy Caminetti bar for a quiet drink and cigar by the fireplace.
Facilities
Is there such a thing as too many pools? There’s plenty of room for swimming, with five outdoor and one indoor heated pools. Couples can sit by the adults-only Tapasake pool, while families can build sandcastles along the private beach next to three kids-only beaches.
If you’re working out on holiday, you’re in luck, because rarely is there a gym with such stunning views of the hills and infinity pool. If a spa is more your style, Swiss brand Chenot Espace offers a range of treatments, from manicures to massages, hydrotherapy, saunas and hammams. There is also a four to seven-day detox program curated and followed by expert doctors and nutritionists.
extracurricular
You can’t leave Portonovi without visiting the medieval towns of Kotor and Perast, where winding streets lead to unexpected historical squares home to Romanesque churches. Kotor is one of the oldest fortified cities in Europe and still reflects this charm. Wander its narrow, cat-infested streets to find a wall cafe or a local bakery.
There are several ways to get there from Portonovi: take a scenic drive along the coast or take a 45-minute boat starting from the hotel and stopping at Our Lady of the Rocks along the way. In both cases, breathtaking views of the mountains and coastal towns are guaranteed.
Neighboring Serbia may have developed a reputation for producing quality wine, but Montenegro is not far behind. Savina Winery, 10 minutes from One&One Portonovi, has revived an 18th-century vineyard to produce award-winning wines. Family-run and owned, the business is located on a hill on the site of a working monastery of the same name. Surrounded by woodlands and offering panoramic views of the bay, guests can taste white, red, Chardonnay and pink from the vines growing a few steps away.
Detail
Prices at One&Only Portonovi start from £710 per room, per night, including daily breakfast and VAT. For more information or to make a reservation, please visit: oneandonlyportonovi.com