All summer long, our Hidden Seaside series will be showcasing lesser-known corners of Europe that offer alternatives to more popular destinations. This week, Jane Foster brings you a guide to Cape Kamenjak in Istria, Croatia.
The Istrian port city of Pula, notable for its magnificent Roman amphitheatre that hosts open-air concerts in the summer months, has entered the tourism mainstream in recent years. Low-cost airlines fly here from the UK, and just south of the city centre, on the Verudela peninsula, there are a number of large modern waterside hotels. But if you venture a little further south, as few tourists do, you’ll find the rocky, pine-scented Cape Kamenjak, a protected nature reserve that remains undeveloped.
A complete escape from urban hustle and bustle, this headland consists of around 20 miles of winding rocky coastline, with several secluded pebbled coves for bathing and an inland area with towering Aleppo pines. The forest is crisscrossed with paths where you can spot roe deer, pheasants and red squirrels. Kamenjak is popular with nature lovers and adventure seekers, couples and families, but few come from further afield than neighbouring Italy. English voices are very rare indeed.
The reserve’s two entrances are located just beyond the village of Premantura (six miles from Pula city centre), where the Kamenjak Nature House eco-centre offers an introduction to the area’s flora, fauna and geology. Entry to Kamenjak is free if you want to explore on foot or by mountain bike; entry for vehicles costs €10-15 (£8-13) depending on the season, although you’ll be better off with a jeep than a car in this rugged terrain.
Adventure awaits. Rent-a-bike Premantura, based in the village, offers half-day and full-day guided bike tours with swimming stops at several beaches along the way. There are also bikes available to rent if you prefer to go it alone. The most scenic route is the 7½-mile Orchid Trail, which runs around the headland and starts and finishes in Premantura.
On the east coast is the small, pebbly beach of Školjić, an excellent choice for water sports. From here, Istra Kayak runs three-hour guided sea kayak tours along the east coast to the tip of the headland (including snorkelling in a sea cave) and shorter sunset and full moon kayak trips. There are also single and double kayaks and standup paddleboards for hire.
Kamenjak has excellent conditions for windsurfing as it is sheltered from the north but receives good winds from the east and west. In the summer months, the mild Mistral In the afternoon the wind blows towards the shore, making it an ideal place for beginners. The Windsurf Station located on Školjić beach also offers lessons and rental.
If scuba diving is more your thing, Dive Centre Scuba Libre is located at the Arena Runke campsite in Runke Bay, also on the east coast. It offers training for all levels of divers and can arrange dives at a variety of locations, including numerous shipwrecks, the most notable of which is the former Yugoslav Navy command ship Vis, built in 1956. There are also small motorboats available for hire if you want to explore the coast; head to Mali Porti beach, a sheltered pebble cove surrounded by pine trees and home to a popular beach bar.
Those hoping to enjoy stunning sunsets should, of course, head to the west coast. An obvious choice is Pinièle beach, a rocky and pebbled cove with plenty of shallows, making it popular with families. Further south and a little harder to reach, beautiful Njive beach combines pebbles with a rocky shore and crystal-clear waters.
However, the highlight for most visitors to the area is Mala Kolumbarica at the southern tip of Kamenjak. It is an area of smooth, flat rocks with extensive sea views, perfect for sunbathing. There are also cliffs, some as high as 11 m (36 ft), where adrenaline seekers can enjoy jumping or somersaulting into the deep, clear sea. A nearby sea cave is popular for snorkelling and underwater photography.
From Mala Kolumbarica you can see the islet of Fenoliga to the west and the Porer lighthouse, built in 1883, rising on the horizon beyond (there is a rental apartment, sleeping four in two double rooms). High above the beach, hidden among the bamboo and palm fronds, is the wonderful Safari Bar, a perfect place for a sunset drink. Like the rest of Cape Kamenjak, it’s one of those places you won’t want to leave.
Getting there
From Pula’s main bus station, bus number 28 goes directly to Premantura, from where it is a short walk to the entrance to the Cape Kamenjak nature reserve.
Where to stay
Within budget
Located in Premantura, the family-run Villa Marizella offers two comfortable apartments (for four people) and one studio (for two people). Each has a kitchenette, outdoor seating areas and a garden with barbecue.
Pushing the boat out
Alternatively, try the five-star waterfront Grand Hotel Brioni in Pula’s Verudela district. Built in 1972, the hotel was renovated in 2022 and offers spacious sea-view rooms and a 60-metre infinity pool. Ask the concierge about private, tailor-made boat tours to Cape Kamenjak.
Where to eat
Dating from 1993, the Safari Bar, on top of Mala Kolumbarica, is a favourite with locals and visitors. It serves barbecued sardines and calamari from a makeshift stall amid lush vegetation, and the sea views are stunning.
Portich Beach Bar on Mali Portië beach serves delicious homemade burgers and cocktails with chips, with tables shaded by white awnings.
Konoba Casa Mia in Premantura offers more serious fare for dinner only, with specialties such as smoked mussels and saffron risotto, octopus casserole with polenta and steak with truffle.