Forget fancy venues and high heels
NYFW is all about luxury hotels, Paris champions iconic landmarks, but during the CPHFW show, visitors found themselves sitting in a parking lot to watch Caro Editions’ debut show, entering a disused distillery for Remain, and climbing atop an old coal crane to check out the Stel presentation. While American fashion editors could be seen slogging through old cobblestone streets in stilettos, their Scandinavian counterparts sped past in flats and, more commonly, on two wheels. Yes, even the biggest Danish fashion stars cycled to the shows. With sambas nowhere to be seen, it seemed the Rishi effect had reached the Danish capital as well. Instead, the shoes of choice were Salomon trail shoes, Puma’s Speedcat OGs (especially in red suede), and fishnet ballet flats. Cowboy boots were also being phased out (very Trumpian). Instead, on rainy days, local trendsetters opted for motocross high-tops or simple, short rubber boots.
New hipster bubbles
At the opening reception, waiters served glasses of bubble tea instead of champagne. Soft drinks were also served from glass teapots as Cecilie Bahnsen introduced her latest coach collaboration with Asics. Bottles of canned water, chilled Kronenbourg and cans of locally produced IPA were passed around at the shows. By nightfall, crowds flocked to simple natural wine bars instead of private members’ clubs. Bottles of biodynamic wine from Gut Oggau with distinctive labels featuring faces adorned covered sidewalk tables, while at the Rotate after-party, guests cooled down after dancing with boozy, vibrant orange slushies.
The return of the handkerchief
You may have only recently gotten the hang of wearing baseball caps everywhere, but Scandinavians have moved on to bandanas. The ’90s accessory, knotted around the head and worn under and over hats, was everywhere. Elsewhere, others have swapped straw sun hats for brightly colored canvas bucket hats and bucket hats, such as Toggles and more. The trend has also spread to the runways. Each model at Caro Editions wore a foldable brim hat in contrasting fabrics like leopard print and polka dots.
Fruity main character energy
Forget intricate candelabra; tables in Copenhagen were adorned with mounds of bright red cherries. At the tailoring specialist La Bagatelle, there were piles of cherries in antique Delft earthenware; and at Locale 21, a chic new restaurant by Mikkel Egelund, who also runs the lively Restobar, waiters served giant silver bowls of juicy stone fruit for dessert. The five-a-day fruit theme was joined by neat rows of polished plums at Tekla, plump peas in pods at COS and fresh apricots served individually on vintage plates in jeweller Sophie Bille Brahe’s sleek showroom.
Bags full of charm
You could hear the street style set coming before you saw them, thanks to the jingling and clanking bag charms. Vintage bags like Balenciaga’s City and Louis Vuitton Speedys were adorned with everything from plush teddy bears to tasseled door key chains and kitsch holiday souvenirs. The more eclectic and vulgar, the better.
Cake perfection
Don’t expect to encounter any of the giant croissant hybrids trending on TikTok at bakeries in Copenhagen. Yes, the Danes’ sense of chic even extends to their carbs. Backstage treats included bite-sized carrot muffins and mini banana bread loaves. Lo-fi bakery Andersen & Maillard had lines out the door for its neat cube-shaped croissants filled with strawberry jam and cream cheese, while Juno’s (founded by former Noma pastry chef Emil Glaser) buns were perfectly rolled and then topped with a single blackcurrant.
Super large elastic hair clips
The hottest accessory wasn’t a designer bag but an oversized scrunchie. Saucer-length scrunchies were dropped into low buns and quickly overtook claw clips on the hair accessory lists. Everyone stopped by fashion-world favorite Pico to pick up silky versions and stock up on their signature flower-shaped pins. Elsewhere, long locks and edgy bobs were accessorized with silky ribbons and tiny bows.
Plain white fatigue
It’s hard to spot a Dane sauntering around sipping a drink. Instead, they’re busy sitting around sipping. Most head to La Cabra (find it at cult fashion spot AnotherAspect) for their caffeine fix, where drip coffee is the norm. Iced matcha is another, but many Copenhageners are self-confessed decaf. At Sonny, a modest but lively café, staff in oversized grey T-shirts, relaxed tailoring and Birkenstocks dish out golden lattes with hot oat milk, turmeric and fresh cinnamon.
Day and night clothing
Trust Tekla Fabrics to make everyone swoon over their satin pajama sets. Yep, the shiny fabric often associated with themed pajama parties has gotten a boost in Denmark. Using a dense weave to reveal more cotton threads, the resulting fabric is less shiny and has a more sophisticated, subtle sheen. But the Danes aren’t just saving their pajamas for bed. Within hours of launching, Tekla’s blush pink and sky blue long-sleeved tops were spotted front row with frayed denim. Scandinavian brand Mandiberg’s striped cotton pajama pants were seen with shirts, while Hay Stores’ two-tone pajama sets turned the rules of day-to-night dressing on their head.
Cross-pollination dressing
Rather than sticking to a single fashion theme, the Danes love to mix and match. Coquette is paired with sportswear. Pair pretty broderie anglaise tops and ribboned cardigans with athletic shorts and sweatpants. Casual shorts are dressed up with sleek, boardroom-ready knit tops and kitten heels. Sheer evening skirts are worn over straight-leg jeans, sleek shirts are paired with party-ready sequined and lace evening dresses, and striped rugby tops are contrasted with everything from crocheted knits to streamlined tailoring.