We’re hearing something said more than most in fashion circles this week. Alongside “janties,” “Hedi Slimane” and “kilts,” perhaps a less expected — or at least less flashy — word appears in the arc: durability. This comes on the back of Primark’s new Durability Framework, which the fast fashion giant says is “designed to set the bar for how retailers can extend the life of their clothes”; This means our customers can ultimately love their clothes and wear them for a long time. longer”.
“Durability should not be a luxury,” the retailer continued. But while the importance of extending the life of clothes is undoubtedly important (figures from WRAP, an environmental NGO, show that using a product for nine months can reduce its carbon, waste and water footprint by up to 30%), Primark’s business model is designed to sell. The abundance of clothing at extremely low prices likely fuels a “buy once, wear once” mentality. So it’s little surprise that Patrick Duffy, founder of Global Fashion Exchange, described the announcement as a “textbook example of greenwashing” and “nothing more than a marketing tactic to burnish their image”.
“It is disingenuous for Primark to wade into these murky waters,” adds Orsola de Castro, co-founder of Fashion Revolution and creative director of agency Estethica. “Of course their products are durable,” he says. “Any product that contains large amounts of polyester is durable because it will take hundreds of years to decompose in landfill.”
According to Duffy, a truly durable fashion brand will “prioritize high-quality, long-lasting materials such as organic cotton, wool or recycled fibres, avoiding the cheap, synthetic fabrics that dominate fast fashion.”
Of course, Primark is not alone. “The reality is… fast fashion giants thrive on fast production cycles, cheap labor and low-quality materials,” Duffy said. “The idea that their products can suddenly have longevity without overhauling their entire supply chain is deceptive.” But many fast fashion brands are also pioneering efforts to look greener. While Boohoo was criticized for appointing Kourtney Kardashian as its “sustainability ambassador” in 2022, a group of influencers took part in a Shein-sponsored trip to the company’s “innovation center” in China in 2023.
So, in the hunt for truly durable and more sustainable clothing, we asked experts for tips on choosing clothes that will truly stand the test of time. Whether you’re on the hunt for a new pair of long-lasting jeans, considering a puffer jacket you hope will last through the winters, or searching a charity shop for vintage finds made to resist the aging process, read on.
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‘Elastane jeans ‘I wear out quicker’
Elastane jeans wear out in the inner thighs and crotch areas and need to be repaired after about a year of use. Standard denim can last up to two to three years before needing repair.
The most durable denim is the Japanese fabric. It takes time to install but will last the longest. Brands such as Edwin, Nudie, Naked & Famous, Iron Heart and Joe & Co Denim all produce high quality selvedge denim. – Michael pendleburyfounder Denim Doctor
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‘When it comes to jackets, a quality zipper is your first priority and ‘shop in person’
The number one reason we see jackets fail is the zipper, so a quality zipper is your first priority. Check if it is branded – YKK or Opti are best. Avoid waterproof coil or two-way zippers as these won’t last very long, and aim for sizes 5 or larger on the main zipper. If branded, the size should be marked on the back.
Depending on why you are purchasing your jacket, you will need to look for different materials. Lightweight never lasts that long, but that’s a compromise if you want ultralight. Fabric is graded by weight, and heavier generally means stronger. Brand names like Gore-Tex or Cordura are usually a good sign, and older-tech fabrics like canvas, waxed cotton, and leather are probably the most durable. Topstitching (where a seam line is reinforced and visible on the outside of the garment) is a good sign. Avoid glued zippers, pockets or edges, which often fail, especially after washing.
Shopping in person is always safer. Don’t be afraid to test the item step by step in the store. Try doing a “pill test” by rubbing the fabric to see if it wears down. Pull all zippers, snaps and seams; It is better to break it in the store rather than yourself! And if it breaks, report it. We willingly ensure quality in the first place. – Rosanna Watson, founder of Snowdonia Gear Repair
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‘Shop vintage and always look inside’
When you shop vintage you will always find something more unique and interesting; Extra attention is paid to small details because they were not mass produced to today’s levels. Always look inside – check pocket bags, is the lining torn? But keep in mind that even if something is damaged, a good tailor or local dry cleaner can usually repair, mend or even reshape it. – Kim, co-founder of Vintage Sisters
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‘Make sure to check the hinges of your glasses’
Choose acetate (plastic) frames instead of injection-molded plastic; Acetate frames usually have a metal backing on the side and feel heavier. Metal frames are durable but much more susceptible to scratches and more difficult to repair. Also, always check the hinges; plastic hinges are prone to breakage, while metal hinges can break over time but can be repaired. – Jo Skelton, co-founder of Peep Eyewear
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‘Resourced bots are less likely to fail’
Beware of welded boots; Boots in which the connection between the upper and the outsole is stitched all around the shoe. The stitching provides additional reinforcement to the structure, making your shoe less likely to fail. It can also make repairing them much easier.
Leather uppers are generally more durable than synthetics, which is a shame for vegans, but at least it’s true for now. Leather uppers are also generally more repairable. Keep them in tip-top condition by using shoe creams, balms and oils to moisturize the leather, keep the surface looking healthy and help prevent water damage. I alternate between shoe creams and oil and do my boots about once a month. – Jamie Whitehouse, Luggage Repair Company
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‘Give yourself the option of removing or removing parts’
Consider sizing up so a tailor can make alterations to ensure the fit is comfortable [if your size fluctuates over time]. High streets in particular will use the least amount of fabric possible to keep production costs down even further and often the dress size we feel will not fit snugly because the cut of the piece does not leave any room for flexibility or movement. If there is excess fabric in the seam and the seams are straight and neat, you have options to tuck this piece in or out. – Donna Tweedalepersonal stylist
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‘Real vintage products have double edges’
If you’re not sure whether something is vintage or a reproduction, look at the stitching or hem of the garment. While real vintage items are often finished with double edging, reproduction vintage is only edged once and sometimes overlocked to finish. – Faye WagstaffeFounder of Charity Shop Gal
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