There are train rides where you just stare at the hills beyond the carriage window. I love these types of routes, whether in the Alps, Iberia or the Balkans. The situation is different in the Netherlands, where flat landscapes prevail. But even on the plains there is often visual drama. The railway tracks that dot the Dutch heathland around Apeldoorn are wonderful. And the secondary railways that follow the IJssel River from Zutphen to Zwolle have a subtle beauty, especially at low sun angles.
Zwolle makes a good base for exploring northeastern Netherlands; especially if your budget stretches to a night or two at the excellent Ter Borch (doubles from €175) in Zwolle, right next to the station. From Zwolle you can head north towards Friesland or take the short line to the beautiful town of Kampen. Or explore the Hanzelijn, the Netherlands’ newest main railway (completed in 2012), which runs westward from Zwolle through the province of Flevoland. Hanzelijn opened in 2012 and traverses a far-flung landscape, much of which is below sea level. All this thanks to the visionary creativity of engineer Cornelis Lely (1854-1929) and the hard work of Dutch ditchers and drainers who created a brand new province from the sea.
There are two high-speed trains departing from Zwolle via Hanzelijn every hour; they all go via Lelystad to Almere, then to Schiphol airport and Den Haag. There are also two slow trains every hour that only go as far as Lelystad, the capital of Flevoland. The railway’s name pays homage to the region’s historic Hanseatic connections. Zwolle, for example, prospered from the 13th century onwards thanks to trade and commerce fostered by the Hanseatic League.
New lands for new communities
Zwolle is a very welcoming town, a hard place to leave. So I somewhat reluctantly head towards the station to catch the regional train via Hanzelijn to Lelystad. In a few minutes our empty train crosses the striking red bridge over the IJssel River. The bridge reflects the Netherlands’ commitment to climate-friendly travel: a double-track railway route with ample space for cyclists and pedestrians, but no provision for cars. To the north, a large Gothic church dominates the skyline of Kampen, another community that formed much of Hanseatic history.
The idea of building a railway from Zwolle through newly reclaimed lands was controversial, and those planning the route had to overcome numerous environmental challenges. Along the way across the border into Flevoland, we plunge into a long tunnel beneath the fragile Drontermeer marshes. Isn’t it wonderful that so much of this railway, which was beneath the waves a century ago, passes overland?
wildlife and wild nature
There are beautiful, longing water meadows with long rows of poplars pushing towards the horizon. New communities such as Dronten and Lelystad, both founded in the 1960s, are shining; the latter, of course, bears the name of Cornelis Lely. There is also a real strip of wilderness, which is a very rare commodity in the Netherlands, because some of these lands just captured from the sea have not yet been fully domesticated.
“You should watch out for the Big Five,” says a freckle-faced woman on the train, explaining that she studies the ecology of marine lands. Lions and elephants seem unlikely, but I discovered that this part of Flevoland is rich in wildlife opportunities. The Big Five in these regions consist of sea eagles, cattle (which look oddly like bison), wild cone ponies, foxes, and red deer.
In Lelystad I discovered stunning modern architecture, much of it set amid watery, green landscapes
So get a hint. Next time you come to the Netherlands, don’t linger in the big cities or take the high-speed train to another country. Take time to explore smaller cities like Zwolle. For a look at how the Dutch passion for taming the sea shaped the development of new landscapes and communities, take the slow train along the Hanzelijn via Lelystad to Zwolle.
I explored Hanzelijn thoroughly during my two trips in June and November this year, stopping at stations along the route. In Lelystad, I discovered stunning modern architecture, much of it set amidst watery, green landscapes. We also witnessed the challenges facing a community that developed so rapidly in the 70s and now, like some new English towns, must reinvent itself for the younger generation.
Relating to: Rail route of the month: from eastern Germany to Szczecin, Poland
But the biggest surprise of Hanzelijn is that it is in touch with nature. From Lelystad I walked towards Oostvaardersplassen, where one of Europe’s largest rewilding projects is taking place, on the reedy southern flank of the IJsselmeer. In the space of just an hour or two, I moved from modern, urban Europe to a wild environment full of water meadows and young woodlands. This is a place for buzzards, barnacle geese, reed bunting and reed warbler.
Those less inclined to explore on foot can still get beautiful views of these new landscapes on comfortable trains passing via Hanzelijn. The railway passes through the youngest national park in the Netherlands. Nieuw Land national park, the country’s second largest national park with an area of 182 square miles, protects and preserves the natural landscapes of the region, which were reclaimed from the sea in the last century by creating a series of levees that separate the Zuider Zee from the North Sea. One of the leading advocates of this ambitious program of flood prevention and land reclamation was Lely, himself an enthusiastic supporter of railways. His spirit must surely smile with good will at the Hanzelijn, which connects the communities of Flevoland to the rest of the Netherlands.
Travel details
Zwolle makes an excellent first stop in the Netherlands. High-speed trains depart from Schiphol airport via Hanzelijn every 30 minutes, reaching Zwolle directly in 69 minutes. There is also a connection from Amsterdam Centraal to Zwolle every half hour; There is an easy train change at Almere Centrum and the total journey time is 65 minutes. Frequent train services run along the Hanzelijn from Almere to Zwolle. One-way fare is 17.90 Euros, purchased from the ticket machine at the station before departure. The €58.80 NS Dagkaart allows unlimited train travel in the Netherlands for one day. Or use Interrail, where a global pass allows unlimited travel in more than 30 countries. Nicky Gardner stayed at Ter Borch in Zwolle on both of her visits; this boutique hotel was housed in an elegant villa, where double occupancy starts from €175 B&B.
Nicky Gardner is co-author of Europe by Rail: Definite Directory. 17th edition Available from Guardian Bookstore.