Somerset has long been a favorite with London weekend crowds; no doubt tempted by the prospect of engaging in a little country cosplay during the day, before retiring to chic contemporary lodgings for a fine dinner and an expertly made Negroni or three. . You can thank Babington House for popularizing this modern, more urban approach to rural escape when it launched in 1998, and numerous similar properties have followed suit, putting the borough on the map as a cooler alternative. Cotswolds.
Holm is the final reason to take that long road trip on the M3. Courtesy of chef and owner Nicholas Balfe The restaurant, which first established itself as one of the South West’s best dining venues, now offers diners the chance to sleep off a hangover smarter than really, thanks to seven newly opened bedrooms upstairs.
Where?
You could be forgiven for not knowing South Petherton. While Frome and Bruton in the north of the county are well placed on the DFL circuit, this picturesque rural community in deep south Somerset has yet to be overrun by the Chelsea tractor brigade – which is no bad thing. You’ll find Holm residing in a former Merchant’s house in the middle of the golden sandstone village, an easy walk from a local pub, artisan florist, café and a very nice wine bar and deli just across the road.
Style
Dreamed up and executed to a tee by interior designers Gundry and Ducker, the restaurant combines a hygge-meets-hipster aesthetic – still Holm’s beating heart – with rustic simplicity (think Hebridean pig sheepskins, plush curtains and wood-burning stoves). It’s the kind of industrial-chic accents you’d expect from an east London gastro-warehouse, including polished concrete floors and exposed brickwork. The artworks are particularly well chosen: eye-catching abstract pastels that further enhance the sense of rural contemporary; In the bedrooms, the focus is on design-led comfort, with mid-century furniture, layered fabrics and prints creating a cocoon in earthy tones.
Food and drink
Holm caused quite a stir when she first opened her dining room in 2021. The first rural outpost from the trio of restaurateurs behind Brixton’s Salon and Levan in Peckham, south Somerset, has been treated to a version of the same refined but relaxed modern European playbook Londoners have come to know and love from previous ventures. . Three business partners have left since its formation, leaving Nicholas Balfe in charge, but if fans of the former band’s greatest hits are worried, they needn’t worry. The cooking at Holm compares really favorably with its predecessors, with a focus on premium and sustainable, local ingredients, providing an added layer of authenticity and flavour. Creedy Carver duck from across the border in Devon is a delight combined with spiced quince and carrots; Westcombe cheddar fries, always available in a regularly changing selection, are close to a culinary delight. And if there’s a better tasting menu available for £59 anywhere, we’re yet to discover it.
Drinks are also perfectly curated for hipsters from London, with a small-batch wine list including a selection of orange numbers, natural and expertly crafted cocktails; An honorable mention should go to breakfast. Granola, pear compote and Dorset yoghurt are followed by soft-boiled eggs, brown hash browns, seasonal greens, tangy, homemade ketchup and a choice of cured pork belly (yum), smoked trout or tamari-glazed mushrooms. This is probably the best English hotel breakfast this reviewer has enjoyed since Le Manoir, and proof that less is definitely more when it comes to breaking the fast.
toextracurricular
South Petherton is well placed for visiting Somerset’s must-see attractions, with Bruton’s range of boutiques, antique shops and art galleries; hi Hauser & Wirth is just a half hour drive north. The coastal beaches of Lyme Regis are just a little further in the other direction. Closer to the base, the surrounding countryside provides a spectacular setting for a muddy walk. Burrow Hill Cider Distillery, rightly considered a local institution, is around an hour’s walk away, as is the Barrington Boar, a charming country pub with a superb menu. Both options offer enough incentive to navigate these rural roads.
Which room?
The Elm, the largest of the seven bedrooms, each named after an English tree, is also dog-friendly. Your furry friend will love the Scandi-inspired modern-rustic aesthetic, where the four-poster bed and clawfoot tub, natural wood and local stone, sheepskin and hand-knitted rugs come together in a stylish yet simple way. A well-curated minibar of local treats and a surprisingly well-proportioned bathroom with double shower and Haeckels products complete the package.
Holm describes itself as a restaurant with rooms, which sounds a bit cheap. Frankly, you’d be delighted to find such luxuriously appointed and cleverly designed sleeping quarters in any country hotel.
Best for
An elegant yet relaxed weekend gastro-pilgrimage to Somerset.
Detail
Accommodations start from £140 per night B&B, 28 St James’s St, South Petherton; holmsomerset.co.uk