On the drizzly tarmac of an afternoon in Essex, we had a few minutes to kill before take-off. A dreamy landscape of mountain wellness hotels and dusty slopes filled the air as I idly flipped through the in-flight magazine. Then there it was, in black and white, on high-quality recycled paper, complete with an exclamation mark.
“The flight itself is a holiday!”
Fighting words from Josef Gostner, president of the three-year-old Bolzano-based SkyAlps. The Italian entrepreneur, a renewable energy magnate and licensed pilot himself, is behind a push to give British skiers a first-class flying experience as well as a quicker route to the glittering Crayola box-coloured Dolomites.
The first SkyAlps winter service departed from London Stansted to Bolzano on 13 December, promising to transform ski holidays in the underrated region. More personal service, better catering, fewer passengers and a destination airport that leaves you as little as 40 minutes from the runway and paseggiata.
When it comes to creating the feeling of a private jet, little luxuries matter. We got off to a good start with an unordered check-in desk. Here I overcame another obstacle that ski travelers face: large luggage. Even though this was a three-day trip, my bag weighed 16.5kg; This was more than the 15kg allowance that comes with standard fare. Nobody batted an eye. “We’re not a budget airline, so we’re trying to be helpful,” SkyAlps representative Daniela Lintner said as she handed me my boarding pass with a smile.
Settlement was painless. Seats are configured two by two, eliminating the dreaded middle seat scenario. Less than two dozen passengers meant about 60 empty seats and lots of overhead space. Among us were a few Italians returning home and a young professional from London who was meeting his family for a ski holiday. In the absence of any entertainment system or Wi-Fi, my 16A port seat had a pretty thrilling view of the underside of the wing and one of the plane’s two six-blade propellers.
A convincing rumble filled the cabin as the twin engines started for an on-time takeoff at 16:05. The Canadian-built Dash DHC-8 Q400 is intended to be one of the quietest turboprop aircraft in the sky. Q may stand for “quiet,” but power-packed takeoff definitely has a higher drag factor than your run-of-the-mill jet. It was nearing five o’clock when we reached 25,000 feet and all thoughts turned to après-ski in the sky during our in-flight vacation.
Instead of asking for money for the usual lukewarm drink, the friendly attendant handed me a printed wine menu. It was a region where plonk was forbidden: delicious South Tyrolean wines were served with gusto; two white, one red and one sparkling. Snacks were also local: we ate Loacker biscuits, full-fat yoghurt and fennel-flavored Schüttelbrot (crunchy regional bread) from a region famous for its fine cuisine born of Italian flavour. Drinks and snacks are free and they came more than once.
Now let’s think about its value. This isn’t a low-cost airline – one-way fares start from €184 (£159) – but it’s no Gulfstream either. Even though there’s only one toilet and non-reclining seats, the moment of arrival alone can be worth the investment when it comes to delivering a major brushstroke of luxury.
Practically enter the private terminal. After two hours and 30 minutes in the air, landing at the vine-covered Aeroporto di Bolzano felt stylish and comfortable, not unlike the human processing plant vibe at some “world-class” airports. Apart from the small number of SkyAlps flights, the only other flights operating here are so-called “general aviation” flights, better known as Zurich bankers boarding their private planes. After a quick passport check, I was out the door; I was completely missing the luggage carousel that was spinning with our belongings. A nice man delivered them a few minutes later.
All this world-class living neatly prepares one for the main event. Konma plus 40 minutes drive, you are in the resort of Val Gardena, then there are many options. First Selva, then a little further on there is Alpe di Siusi, Kronplatz and Corvara, I was having fun there. collation 90 minutes after landing at the traditional Hotel Sassongher.
Each of these beautiful villages is part of the 1,200 km connected Dolomiti Superski ski slope; it is a knot of smooth white hillsides that, if extended, could cover the entire country. But that’s only half the story. These uncrowded havens, which include La Villa, San Cassiano and Colfosco, which collectively make up the Alta Badia region, host a gastro-ski getaway of Romanesque proportions.
As part of Alta Badia’s resort-wide A Taste for Skiing dining initiative, eight mountain resorts are offering a gourmet meal prepared by a different Italian Michelin-starred chef, using fine South Tyrolean produce and paired with local wines. Meals start from €21 (£18); just like the cappuccino soup with mushrooms and sausage that I enjoyed at Ütia Bioch. A good mountain lunch doesn’t get any better than this. Or is it?
Blink and you’ll miss Col Alto, nestled below the eponymous upper gondola station and overlooking a tangled view of the Dolomite peaks. Order a deluxe starter sample of trout tartare, speck and foie gras, served with heavy bread baskets. A delicious final lunch, culminating in a final dash home, winging and soaring under the rosy glow of the setting Dolomite sun. After all, the holiday is in flight.
Fundamentals
SkyAlps operates flights between London and Bolzano twice a week (Wednesday and Sunday) from €184 (£159) one way. Fifty percent discount for children between two and 11 years old, and children under two go free. Hotel Sassongher offers rooms from €300 (£259) per night, based on two sharing, half board. For more information about Corvara and Alta Badia.
Find more of the best ski resorts in Italy in our guide.