With festive cheer comes dress codes to discuss, and the classics may be the most difficult to understand.
What exactly is the difference between black tie and white tie? How long or short should you wear your dress? What style of jacket should you wear? Here’s your crash course guide to saving you from turning heads for all the wrong reasons (with a little help from Debrett’s trusty etiquette guide).
What is the black tie dress code for men?
According to Debrett, a real men’s black tie suit will consist of a dinner jacket made of barathea (a super-soft silk, wool and cotton weave) or ultra-fine herringbone.
The jacket should be single-breasted or double-breasted, with a silk peaked collar (or shawl collar) and closed buttons.
White dinner jackets are also traditionally worn for black tie in warm climates, but are not generally worn in Britain.
Traditional black tie also includes a white evening shirt from Marcella, a slightly stiffer cotton fabric, with bib detail and double cuffs. The shirt should have a turn-down collar (not a wing collar) and be worn with cufflinks.
Black tie trousers should be smart with a natural taper and (if you’re a true black tie enthusiast) a single row of knitting down the outside of each leg.
As for the black bow tie itself? Debrett advises men to choose one that suits their head size to avoid the comedy clown look. A man’s black tie look is usually completed with a white handkerchief in the left breast pocket and polished black shoes.
Optional black tie attire includes sashes and waistcoats; but the two should never be worn together.
What is the black tie dress code for women?
Although women tend to have more flexibility with the black tie dress code, Debrett recommends that women avoid “tight ‘red carpet’ dresses” or “those with a dramatic cleavage” because they would be uncomfortable or uncomfortable at a formal event that includes both a reception and a dress code. They may be inappropriate. and a sit down dinner.
A dress can be full-length or knee-length, but no shorter and should reveal only a little cleavage. Trousers are another acceptable option for women, but Debrett recommends a palazzo cut (widening at the waist) over anything too form-fitting.
Costume jewelry or simple bracelets and necklaces are best, rather than anything too flashy (diamonds are better reserved for white tie).
Apparently tiaras are also a no-no for black tie (in case you have one around). Although the dress code is ‘black tie’, dresses do not need to be black unless clearly stated on the invitation.
What is the white tie dress code for men?
White tie is known as ‘full evening dress’ or informally as ‘tails’.
It was the normal evening dress for gentlemen before World War II. Today, the white tie dress code is generally used for presidential dinners, state dinners attended by royal families, and traditional events such as Le Bal Des Debutantes in Paris.
As one of the rare dress codes you’ll see on invitations, even celebrities have a hard time achieving this look. Anna Wintour has revealed that many male guests at the 2014 Met Gala were barely making ends meet when faced with their will that year. While speaking to Seth Meyers on Late Night, he said he had “no idea how big the panic was.” [the dress code caused] “It would get men in New York and around the world thinking about their clothes.”
According to Wintour, Benedict Cumberbatch “made it” that year; This was undoubtedly helped by being accompanied by designer Tom Ford. Ford, who dressed many male stars that evening, reportedly told Wintour in an email that that year “hundreds of men came and asked her to explain what white tie meant.”
Unlike black tie, there is little room for style maneuvers here. Men need to make sure their attire includes a black, single-breasted tailcoat in black wool (barathea) or an ultra-thin herringbone coat with a silk peaked collar, worn unbuttoned.
The front of the coat is shorter than the morning coat and is paired with black trousers with a natural slim fit and two rows of braid on the outside of the leg.
A white tie shirt should come in Marcella color with a starched detachable wing collar and double cufflinks, usually secured with studs rather than buttons.
The shirt is then worn under a low-cut, white Marcella evening vest (either double-breasted or double-breasted). Wear a thin, white hand-tied bow tie to complete your white tie look.
Put your best foot forward with patent black lace-up shoes worn with black laces (though black ribbons if you want something truly traditional) and black socks. Black top hats, coats and white silk scarves are also allowed if you want to enter the Downton Abbey zone.
What is the white tie dress code for women?
White tie rules for women are less strict and similar to black tie rules, but the basic requirement is a full-length ball gown or dress. According to Debrett, a ‘good’ prom dress design will consist of a fitted bodice with a full floor-length skirt. This means power suits generally have to stay out in such situations.
Traditionally, long gloves were also worn by women at white tie balls, but over time this requirement has diminished. Gloves should be worn when arriving at an event or when greeting (shaking hands with the host) and dancing, but should be removed when eating and at the dinner table.
And now it’s time to go all-out on the jewelery frontier; Take a page from the Princess of Wales’s book and cover yourself in family diamonds.
Shop the look
Black tie for men
Mr P.
Mr P, Shawl Lapel Tuxedo Jacket, £375, mrporter.com
Mr P.
Mr P, Slim Fit Tuxedo Trousers, £195, mrporter.com
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren, Poplin Tuxedo Shirt, £380, ralphlauren.co.uk
Moss Brothers
Moss Bros, Black Silk Bow Tie, moss.co.uk
Jaeger
Jaeger, Pure Silk Belt, £45, marksandspencer.com
black tie for women
Zara’s
Zara, Velvet midi dress, £35.99, zara.com
Beach
Coast, Premium Hourglass Silhouette Blazer, £143.20, coastfashion.com and Premium Flare Trousers, £87.20, coastfashion.com
piferi
Piferi, Ursula 100 heels, piferi.com
white tie for men
Moss Brothers
Moss Bros, Tailored Tail Suit Jacket, £129, moss.co.uk
Russell and Bromley
Russell & Bromley, Sinatra Patent Derby Lace-up shoes, £225, russellandbromley.com
London Aspinal
Aspinal London, Double Dome Silver Embroidered Cufflinks, £150, aspinaloflondon.com
Moss Brothers
Moss Bros, White Marcella Self-Tie Bow Tie, £20, moss.co.uk
Eton
Eton, White Pique White Tie Shirt, £200, etonshirts.com
white tie for women
Reiss Workshop
Reiss Atelier Duchess Satin Cape Maxi Dress, £595, reiss.com
Needle and Thread
Needle and Thread, Lisette Ruffle Off-Shoulder Dress, £500, Needleandthread.com
Jimmy Choo
Jimmy Choo, Sacora 100 Faux Pearl Tulle Sandals, £650, matchfashion.com