I uncover the story behind the traditional Christmas scent on a trip to Oman

By | December 25, 2023

Mention incense and it’s hard not to instantly think Christmas.

Mentioned in the story of Jesus’ birth in the Bible’s Book of Matthew, this gift was one of the precious gifts (along with gold and myrrh) given to the baby Jesus by the three wise men.

But there’s more to this ancient, aromatic taste tree More resin than its biblical relationship. This is immediately apparent on my first trip to the Sultanate of Oman, the epicenter of frankincense.

Discovering Salalah: The Land of Frankincense

The mystical, rich scent of frankincense (known locally as luban) is indispensable. Oman. This is especially true of the city of Salalah in the southernmost province of Dhofar, where sweetgum trees grow wild.

I take my first breath before landing in the sun-baked coastal city. A slight scent of frankincense can be detected in Oman Airlines’ hand lotion. sweetness The kits are from high-end Omani heritage brand Amouage, Oman’s most famous perfumery, which uses frankincense in about 60 percent of its products. From that moment on, the scent of incense is never far from me.

As you stroll through the ultra-modern, ostentatious Salalah Airport, frankincense hydrosol filters through industrial-grade diffusers, scenting and purifying the air.

Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is located by the sea within sight of the Frankincense Land Museum.

Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is located by the sea within sight of the Frankincense Land Museum. -Anantara

When Taksim stands under the elegant road Arabic In the arches of my Al Baleed Resort Salalah hotel in Anantara, I see a trio of ornamental sweetgum trees in shimmering gold pots. The property is located by the sea within sight of the Frankincense Land Museum.

My room is like a magical setting from the story of Scheherazade, with frangipani trees, bronze lanterns and traditional landscapes. council sitting. Weather fragrant with hints of faint, slightly sweet incense smoke from recently burned resin.

Frankincense essential oil is used in massages at the spa of Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara.Frankincense essential oil is used in massages at the spa of Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara.

Frankincense essential oil is used in massages at the spa of Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara. -Anantara

And shining spaWith its luxurious marble bathhouse, frankincense essential oil is applied to aching muscles and frankincense-infused potions are offered instead of herbal tea.

Even after spending just a few hours in Salalah, it becomes immediately clear why it is known as the land of incense.

Khor Rori and Wadi Dawkah: UNESCO World Heritage Sites to be protected

Salalah, also called the perfume capital of Arabia, is home to Boswellia sacra, the most valuable sweetgum tree species in the world. The sap of Boswellia sacra is obtained and dried into small crystals of frankincense resin – once more valuable than gold. The resin is burned as incense or distilled oil for various uses. Although native to Yemen and Somalia, this top breed is most commonly found in Oman and has played an important role in making the region a prosperous trading hub in the Middle East. antique World.

Al Baleed Resort’s tour guide Hussain Balhaf takes me to see it. UNESCO Once used for the incense trade, B.C. The heritage site of Khor Rori (Sumhuram), a fortified port city dating back to the 3rd century.

“During excavation“Incense burners were found with incense still on them,” says Hussain, as he hurries through the crumbling, biscuit-coloured ruins to avoid the heat.

Later, when we visit the Frankincense Museum, Hussain points out several of these burners excavated from religious sites as well as houses in Sumhuram; This is something that still exists today. Incense is still burned mosquesChurches and temples around the world use the smoke to symbolize sanctification and purification.

The Omani government has collaborated with heritage brand Amouage to protect the country's frankincense trees.The Omani government has collaborated with heritage brand Amouage to protect the country's frankincense trees.

The Omani government has collaborated with heritage brand Amouage to protect the country’s frankincense trees. – Amouage

Then Hussein takes me to the Dawkah Valley, another UNESCO-approved rocky, semi-stony area.desertIt is the natural habitat of sweetgum trees.

“Seventy years ago this valley [valley] “It would be full of incense trees,” says Hussain. climate change and overharvesting are among the reasons for the decline. He shows me how the bark is nicked during the harvest months, revealing the sap. This sap is then scraped away to form a second sap, which then dries and crystallizes.

In previous counts, there were only 1,200 ancient perennial trees in Valley Dawkah. To increase and maintain numbers OmanAccording to ‘s legacy, the government established a frankincense farm and developed a visitor center at the site, run in partnership with Amouage. As the protector of trees, the brand ensures correct harvesting sustainable and edited.

Learning about frankincense harvesting with a local guide

Harvesting frankincense is a time-consuming process that is done by hand and cannot be rushed. Even after the harvest, the work is still not over. To learn more about how frankincense is processed and sold, I enlist the help of expert Adnan Safrar. local guide I asked ToursByLocals to take me to a workshop.

“We are very lucky to be able to visit,” Adnan says as we turn onto a quiet street in the Salalah industrial area. “Most workshops are very protective of the process.”

Amer Mohammed Alameri is the general manager of Luban Dhofar, a frankincense distillery in Salalah.Amer Mohammed Alameri is the general manager of Luban Dhofar, a frankincense distillery in Salalah.

Amer Mohammed Alameri is the general manager of Luban Dhofar, a frankincense distillery in Salalah. -Anantara

Despite this warning, Amer Mohammed Alameri, managing director of Luban Dhofar, a Salalah-based incense distillation company, could not have been more welcoming. He takes me into his workshop and shows me stainless steel tanks, vats of ice-cold purified water, and finished products (soap, powder, hydrosol, and essential oil). cosmeticsfragrances and natural remedies.

Amer’s family has been working with frankincense for generations, and he is generous with his time and treasures.

“Our policy is to announce all the benefits of frankincense to the world. We’ve known this for thousands of years. Now research is being done to prove this,” says Amer, showing me studies conducted by Omani universities on the promising effects of frankincense on infections and infections. diseases.

What is frankincense used for in Oman?

while medical The benefits of frankincense are still being researched and shared around the world; In Omani society, this product remains a valuable resource used to purify, scent and flavor.

Back on the relaxing, expansive grounds of Al Baleed Resort, I sit under palm tree umbrellas with Omani Dina Macki. chef He was born and raised in England.

“We have always said that frankincense is an elixir of life,” he says. “It’s actually a really good thing to have for medical purposes. We put the edible resin in water and when I first started drinking it I noticed my digestion was better. skin cleaned… It is also very common to burn incense and stand. [the smoke] “We wear clothes that allow the incense to pass through us for purifying purposes and fragrance,” Dina continues.

Premium hojari frankincense of four varieties is used cooking. Dina is in Salalah to cook at Al Baleed Resort’s Food Festival, a week-long culinary extravaganza in its second year. Each night, a new chef from a different country delights guests with dishes that reflect their hometown’s restaurants (mostly local). Michelin-starry).

For her night out, Dina prepares Omani specialties at the hotel’s poolside Sakalan restaurant. sweet It is decorated with edible incense pearls. “Personally, I love [the taste of] incense; It works really well with sweet things, like when you mix it with crème brûlée and panna cotta,” says Dina.

Smoke can also be used to flavor meat and fish. milk You can find this product, flavored with frankincense, in markets in Oman. You can even find frankincense ice cream to add a newer twist to the ancient product. I suggest you enjoy the icy treat at one of Oman’s countless postcard-perfect spots beaches – because frankincense is not the only amazing natural wonder in this part of the world.

Nicole Trilivas was the guest of Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara and Experience Oman with the support of Oman Air and ToursByLocals.

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