The news that Perthshire in Scotland has been ranked first on Booking.com’s list of the world’s “friendliest” regions may surprise anyone with the perception that Scotland – and indeed us Scots – can be unwelcoming and hostile. Whisper, even if a little sullenly. So what is the reality for visitors beyond the bagpipes and political bluster on both sides of the border?
I’ve been working as a travel writer for over twenty years and make 30-40 trips a year (mostly always around Scotland), so this news doesn’t surprise me at all. After all, Glasgow has been named the friendliest city in the world in 2022; Kirkwall was one of the friendliest towns in England last year.
Scotland has always looked beyond its borders – we have had to do so, with a global diaspora of nearly 20 million people, partly due to the Highland Clearances – and has welcomed the world in return. Glasgow’s “Refugee” scheme is a striking example. As a matter of fact, my British wife “has not had a single problem in this country” for 20 years. I checked last night because I didn’t think to ask him before. For balance, I also asked a Welsh and Northern Irish friend. We are all fine there too.
So where does an unwelcome perception come from? I partly blame Taggart. Not just that, but the dogged Scottish cops/soldiers/lovers who are ruining TV and cinema. Scots are often portrayed in fiction—and in reality—in stereotypical terms (being “tight” is one thing). We are the other; It’s easier to characterize than to take seriously. A British friend of mine who lives here thinks, controversially, that this is a defense mechanism that allows people who do this to avoid questions about their own identity. He also became the owner of sullenness; He comes from Lancashire.
I hear some grumblings from visitors along the way, but they’re usually in vague terms. They’re not hard-fought examples of being kicked out of Highland hotels by hairy Scotsmen, or turning down a craft gin because you’re genuinely glad England won the World Cup in 1966. This means more like “that Salmond” or “that Sturgeon”.
Yes, we finally mentioned the plaid-clad elephant in the room – independence. I can see how continued support for Scottish nationalism could be mistakenly confused with the perception of how welcoming the English are. Without taking sides on the issue of independence, I think this is perhaps because people don’t understand that the nationalism I see here for myself is not the hate-spewing nationalism that some people outside Scotland think it is.
Yes, it is a desire for Scotland to control its own affairs, but it is a desire rooted in internationalism (Scots did vote against leaving the EU, after all) – a desire not driven by hatred. And we are a crafty country, so even the most passionate supporter of independence will happily take your tourist pound.
Having been on the road around Scotland for 20 years, I consistently see positive hospitality practiced, and it’s not just a cheerful smile from behind the bar. If you have read the sermons of our other national poet, John Knox, you will notice that we are extremely positive. Scotland offers a welcome and enduring goodwill from Americans, Canadians and most nationalities alike. Without population pressure in the south of England, people have more time for you, especially outside Scotland’s eight cities, and visitors appreciate it.
It’s a symbiotic relationship, of course, as Scotland needs tourism; this is one of our biggest industries. And this is one golden grouse we cannot afford to underestimate. The Covid staycation boom has caused tensions that new initiatives such as community tourism project Scoto are trying to ease. The idea is that you are welcome as a “temporary local”. You invest your cash in community-run businesses and give people time; In return, they will do the same for you and try to help you in any way they can. This is Scottish hospitality and personality at its best.
For an example of what a friendly and cranky place Scotland is, let’s take a closer look at the most hospitable part of the world: Perthshire.
If anyone needs to be grumpy and grumpy, it’s Perthshire, the only landlocked part of Scotland. That hasn’t stopped the shower of praise over the years; Perth was the UK’s first ‘Cittaslow’ city and was crowned Scotland’s happiest city in 2020. This is no wonder, as it is a region of incredible abundance. Perthshire is scenically vibrant with towering Munros, the country’s mightiest river (Thai), and glistening lakes. Local beef and lamb are top-notch, as are salmon, trout and berries. And distilleries abound in the valleys.
I smile now as I go through the vivid mental reel of the positive experiences I had in Perthshire. And not just in five-star hotels like Gleneagles, but also the bus driver who continued to the end of his route to drop me off, and the dreich ski trip, the rafting guide who realized he had to wake up mom and dad as much as the little ones. At its best, a Perthshire (and wider Scottish) adventure is a non-stop life-affirming game of tag, where you move from one positive experience to the next. One minute you’re relying on the guide to keep you safe while bungee jumping, the next you’re lost next to a roaring fire, turning into a Highland cliché.
A new Perth Museum is opening this Easter, with its star exhibit featuring the iconic Stone of Destiny, which crowned Scotland’s monarchs until it was stolen by Edward I in 1296. Scotland moved on. The stone was returned home from Westminster Abbey in 1996 and Scotland, without any ill will, was returned to King Henry III last year. He returned the stone for Charles’ coronation. Well, what else would you expect from this most hospitable country?
Three ways to experience a warm Scottish welcome
A good Egg
This majestic island showcases the life-affirming things that can be experienced when locals take back control. A clean, green community, Eigg comes alive thanks to residents from all over the UK and abroad. They have their own brewery, record label and a shiny new community store/café where you’ll be welcomed like an old friend. Next door, Welshman Owain is on hand to rent you an e-bike; so you can explore the sweeping dunes, white sand beaches and wildlife of this real-life Treasure Island. See isleofeigg.org.
Lots of Whiskey
Forget Speyside, the island of Islay is a must-visit for whiskey lovers. The industry is growing rapidly and 14 distilleries will soon open in the “Queen of the Hebrides”. A warm welcome awaits each with tours, restaurants and creative tasting experiences; It is guaranteed that you will leave happy. See islayinfo.com.
Toast Hogmanay
This is the big one. Edinburgh is grabbing all the headlines with its multi-day Hogmanay extravaganza and huge street party and concerts. Meanwhile, fire festivals in Comrie and Stonehaven offer a truly warm welcome. It took my English wife years to fully understand that Hogmanay is more important than Christmas to many Scots. Check out visitsscotland.com.