Milan’s autumn/winter 2024 fashion shows turned out to be extremely wearable collections. Milan has never been as adventurous/ugly as Paris. Bourgeois conformity is in his soul. But in the wake of the post-pandemic spending splurge (I’m not either, but the return of many big brands suggests many of us are going on a shopping spree) reality has bitten. Spending is decreasing across many brands, putting minds on tactile, luxury-feeling fabrics and wearable garments that score highly for exclusive details and longevity.
While there are plenty of investment items to consider, like a new skirt shape, knee-length or riding boots, and some color changes, most of the standouts were the styling ideas, and any of them will update your current look. Continue reading…
Strengthen your beige color
Milan’s love of taupe isn’t going away anytime soon. Every shade, from camel to pale biscuit, has been questioned by many designers lately for suiting “quiet luxury”. But Northern Italians have always loved this particular slice of the spectrum. Max Mara built its entire brand on the “Camelandia” concept. However, recognizing that some skin types can look alarmingly pale with these pale tones, designers added some more color to the mix.
The most popular is medium blue, which looks especially beautiful with all shades of cream and brown. Gucci’s new designer, Sabato De Sarno, loved it so much he outfitted it in nothing but taupe leather. And voila, wearing the ultra-rich set’s favorite neutral, you no longer have to look jaundiced. Progress, people, progress.
Skirts with a sting in the tail
What you need to know: Mini skirts are on the agenda again. But fear not, there are many alternative options. Midis and maxis abound, and instead of being straight up and down, some now have (thin) mermaid tails or pleated inserts at the sides. It may sound complicated, but in the hands of Ferragamo’s British designer Maximilian Davis, it isn’t. But it’s flattering.
Knitted Jacket
Jacket or cardigan? Both of them; one’s comfort, the other’s cleverness. Remember, we’re talking about winter, and while a blazer may seem like a year-round investment, most of us take a day off from wearing coats when the weather leaves us feeling cold. As designers turn their attention to the cardigan-jacket, you can be sure that it will become increasingly refined and modern. In Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s sophisticated collection inspired by the Hitchcock hero, the eponymous Serafini combined it with the same colored trousers made from a different fabric: a beautiful play on textures that looks very smart and comfortable.
Another takeaway? The sculpted brooch pin is back. Add one to an existing weave to upgrade it.
Polo collar and tall boots
Let it not be said that Milan fashion is an exclusive club, open only to wealthy members. From now on, you can get by and look completely current by adding tall boots to everything and wearing a polo neck under everything (dresses, shirts, tanks, coats, bustiers). Perfect coverage and warmth for necks, polo collars also reduce the need for scarves; This is sad if you love scarves, but good if you tend to leave them everywhere. This is truly a win-win situation.
Be Bold with Shinies
Beige and monochromatic bright colors, which have been on the fashion scene lately, have developed a not-so-sophisticated reputation (partly blame Barbie for this; it killed pink for a while). But if Miuccia Prada says purple and red, chartreuse and bubblegum pink look good together, her power and the rest of the industry will fall in line. And like him they will wear them with black; this combination was previously thought to be in the 1980s, and not in a good way (there’s not much in the 80s that could be interpreted “in a good way”).
Meanwhile, Adrian Appiolaza, who was appointed creative director of Moschino in January, has created an impressively assured collection that manages to combine playful elements, smiley faces, peace symbols and colors that are integral to this label, but with a collection added every day. smartness. This daffodil yellow sweater with tassels stands out.
One more takeaway: Miuccia is 74 years old and still wields huge clout in this so-called youth-obsessed world. Time to go.
It’s not just about the blazer. Meet your new useful jacket
A blazer never goes out of style. Milan was full of them. But there are other suggestions for you to consider: a cropped business casual jacket. In Loro Piana, a record company that doesn’t know what a recession means, Subrogation The sleeveless combat jacket, the ultra-rich’s favorite “you-know-you-know-it” tag, has just reached its peak.
Meanwhile, Brunello Cucinelli is another master of making the most luxurious pieces look comfortable and simple to the naked eye. This is where David Beckham went when he wanted to be the best shepherd in the Cotswolds. It is so expensive that Carrie Bradshaw, who is now a very rich widow, although not very happy, talked about the prices with admiration in an episode of the program. And just like... This casual jacket is enough to set your benchmark: pale, natural fabrics and a cut that means you can wear it day or night, and the overdressed brigade will be gnashing their teeth and wondering why it looks so good.
Take it out: It’s interesting how these ultra-luxury labels embrace practicality. Is this the flexibility of the new rich?
Versatile Shirt
Good cotton shirts have become one of those non-essential essentials that influencers love for a wide variety of style options. Wear them over tanks, over tight ribbed sweaters, under overalls, over strapless dresses, from back to front, with the sleeves rolled up, turned upside down, or hanging down if you’re ready to be ridiculed. And now… …wear them with another shirt.
You probably won’t. But the implication is that a boxy, masculine shirt that’s nicely made to last can work as a summer “jacket.”
Bellissima Burgundy
Burgundy has pushed brown into second place as the most popular winter color. Some designers send head-to-toe shades of burgundy, but this is not recommended if it doesn’t suit you. It’s not easy to wear close to the face, but it’s a great highlight color; boots, gloves, bags, belts. At Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy has moved towards a more wearable approach than before (let’s just say that past collections have been more about concepts and accessories than everyday luxury). The semi-tight dress that balances the burgundy color with cream and chocolate stands out. Beautiful.
car jacket
There are lots of sweeping coats in Milan—the ultimate in luxury (see Alberta Ferretti’s light green version below). However, if you think all these fabrics are useless, here is the answer. Car coats came in all fabrics, from evening brocades to this plush dream from Gucci.
Finally: accessories that make a difference
Bags and shoes are never an afterthought in Milan. After all, many of the most established brands here – Prada, Gucci, Tod’s, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo – started with luggage, bags or shoes.
What do you want to know:
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Shiny riding boots and boots will be all over the high street next season.
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The bags are soft and ergonomic (when a brand offers three shades from the Valextra camel range, you know you’re on the luxury planet)
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Scarves that match coats are probably the chicest update you can make (I was inspired by Swedish brand Toteme’s popular blanket-stitch coat and matching scarf, which has been steadily selling out since its introduction in 2022, I’d venture). By the way, that chartreuse Ferretti jacket? Another key color for next fall.