The transformation of Helsinki’s once-industrial Konepaja neighborhood is drawing visitors to this new cultural center, where trendy bars and restaurants are located and the historic Folks Hotel is in full swing.
Where?
Konepaja is often described as the ‘urban culture’ center of Helsinki; but this fails to do justice to the architecture and historical fabric of this former industrial area, famous for train construction in the early 20th century. The area is an intriguing mix of red-brick factory buildings, modern apartment buildings, trendy eateries and cozy cafés.
The Puu-Vallila district is on the doorstep; A series of charming streets lined with quaint little wooden houses built for workers in 1913, in a garden-city-style area where locals walk their dogs and traffic is drowned out by birdsong. The Bohemian Kallio district is easily navigable; Helsinki’s central station is 20 minutes away by tram and there are direct buses to the airport, but it’s even easier by taxi.
Style
Built in 1901, the Folks Hotel is the oldest building in the area and once housed the Pasila train factory, which produced locomotives for the state railway. The building’s owners were careful to respect this history, preserving a large ceiling mural painted by railroad workers and leaving the factory clock stopped at the time the last worker left the building earlier in the night.
However, it is the modern decorations that make you feel like you are sleeping in a museum; neon-lit smart train tracks along the brick exterior, quirky antiques and minimalist works by local artists like former ice hockey player Ville Leino. Touches of the original exposed brick have been brought up to date with clever use of colors such as slate, rich turquoise, orange, bright yellow. And of course the sauna. It creates a characteristic, comfortable and original feeling; This was no doubt helped by the fact that the hotel, which opened in October 2020, has independent Finnish owners, rather than pretending to be part of a giant international group, all while pretending to be its own. The service is friendly, helpful and very welcoming.
Which room?
Its 146 rooms owe more than a nod to the Ace hotel chain, the kind of industrial chic aimed at aging hipsters looking to explore up-and-coming areas. If it sounds cynical, it is not; this aging hipster loved huge factory windows overlooking neighboring industrial buildings, wooden floors, a mini Smeg fridge and hygge-worthy soft furnishings.
My boutique room was located in the hotel’s historic building, opposite the main reception, and featured that impressive workers’ mural. Despite its industrial past, the feel felt cosy, with a Tempur bed, soft shades of grey, terracotta and white tones, ceramic murals by Finnish artist Laura Itkonen above the bed, and of course a robe and slippers. sauna. The hotel also offers rooms for solo travelers (increasingly popular in Scandinavian cities), as well as rooms with bunk beds for couples and families.
food drink
Eating and drinking at Folks Hotel is an egalitarian phenomenon. Some rooms have kitchenettes and there is also a large shared kitchen in the main building; More Smeg appliances are available here, and even equipment if you want to cook up something sweet (Finns love their fruit-covered rice pudding, not to mention the national cuisine is obsessed with licorice). There are oils, spices, and guests often purchase common ingredients to be used by others when their stay ends; No wonder Finland has been voted the happiest country in the world for seven consecutive years.
The lobby bar next to the main reception offers tapa-style snacks and drinks and has a gin and tonic hour most evenings. Summer sees the opening of rooftop Bar Alexis with a special cocktail menu. But my recommendation is to head downstairs to the atmospheric Restaurant Albina, which serves dinner from Tuesday to Saturday and guests enjoy breakfast every morning. Believe me, even at 8am it feels like you’re deep inside the building – in a good way; Flickering candles reflect off the dimly lit, exposed white bricks and pipes. Lively groups of local friends were enjoying good bread, thick butter, pickles, fruity porridge and strong coffee (the only thing Finns love more than licorice, in my experience) alongside the guests. I felt as if I had been invited to an intimate Scandi gathering rather than a hotel breakfast buffet.
Facilities
Did I mention the sauna? There is also a large steam room. I enjoyed both myself and the lovely fidelity (a Finnish term for the steam coming out of the sauna stove) both before breakfast and after dinner – where you don’t go into the sauna just once a day. Cosmetics in these public areas are provided by Rituals. There is also a wellness center with a gym and a yoga room decorated with fairy lights. It is also possible to book massages and personal training.
extracurricular
When you visit Folks Hotel in the summer months, you may not want to go anywhere; The owners organize a free music and food festival every June in the industrial area just outside the building, which has become a local must.
The location is ideal for walking to the nearby Kallio district, which has a large Art Nouveau church (and sometimes raves, too, a local told me), as well as vintage shops, bakeries, and picturesque squares where you can have more drinks. Coffee.
Helsinki Exhibition Center and Olympic Park are just over 15 minutes’ walk from the hotel. But to truly immerse yourself in the local culture, head to one of the many public saunas. Kotiharjun is the neighborhood’s only sauna that is still traditionally heated with wood. While Sompasauna is a hippie-style, community-run beach sauna that must be experienced to be believed, during the winter months I recommend taking a dip in the ice-cut hole before heading elsewhere to the nearby Helsinki Distilling Company. Cool industrial complex of restaurants and bars to warm up with a local whiskey.
Best for…
Exploring Helsinki off the beaten path and sampling local life.
Detail
Rooms at Folks Hotel Konepaja start from €220 per night.