Soft, white, powdery beaches, clear turquoise waters, exotic gardens, vineyards, art studios and honesty boxes – this is Britain, but not as you know it. An idyllic part of Cornwall, the beautiful Isles of Scilly are an archipelago 30 miles west of the mainland.
The heaths are full of insects, endangered birds nest on the rocky shores and grey seals lazily emerge from the water to bask on rocky islets. Of the more than 140 islands, only five are inhabited today, and each has its own unique character.
St. Mary’s is the most cosmopolitan place you’ll find, with countless hotels, restaurants and shops. Tresco is perfect for families, rugged Bryher is peaceful and welcoming, tiny St. Martin’s has a laid-back vibe and is even quieter. St. Agnes, home to some of the best campsites with views in the country, feels like a world away.
If you visit for a weekend from the mainland, you’ll find yourself returning again and again to learn more about this fascinating corner of Cornwall, away from the crowds.
For more inspiration, visit our guides to the Isles’ best hotels, restaurants and attractions. If you’re planning a longer trip, check out our guide to the best holidays in Cornwall.
A perfect weekend break on the Isles of Scilly
If you only have a few days on the Isles of Scilly, it’s best to use St. Mary’s as your base. The largest of the inhabited islands, ferry, plane and helicopter terminals can be found here (though Tresco also has a helipad). If you’re short on time, hopping on a flight with Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk) is probably your best – and most convenient – option (see below).
St. Mary’s is as cosmopolitan as the Isles of Scilly can feel, with plenty of fabulous boutique shops and local crafts for sale. There’s also a wide range of accommodation available. Star Castle has a grand feel (rooms from £259) and St. Mary’s Hall hotel is right in the heart of Hugh Town (from £214). For cosy accommodation with a more local feel, try cheap and cheerful Mincarlo B&B (mincarloscilly.com; rooms from £87).
Once you’ve set up your base, explore the island. Everything is within walking distance, but if you’re short on time and low on stamina, head to Scilly Buggies and rent a golf cart for the day. With your keys in hand, you can visit the Scilly Spirit Distillery, explore the ancient Bronze Age entrance tombs in the north of the island, laze on one of the many beaches, or wander the grounds of Star Castle.
Stop for a bite to eat along the way. For a delicious lunch with a view, you can’t beat Juliet’s Garden Restaurant, while Dibble & Grub serves surprisingly good tapas by the beach. Find more of the islands’ best restaurants in our guide.
You could easily spend a weekend in St. Mary’s, but any visit to the Isles of Scilly is really about island hopping. There are regular day trip services to other islands (at least two round trips to each island each day, and two circular departures each day in the main season) and which one you choose depends on your tastes (see below). Find out more about island hopping in our guide to the best places to visit.
A perfect one-week holiday on the Isles of Scilly
A week here opens up many more possibilities and is the preferred time period because this way you can enjoy the islands and discover the unique character of each one.
For a six-night holiday, I would recommend two nights on St. Mary and two nights on the other two islands to get a real feel for each. Where you stay doesn’t limit what you can visit either, with each island offering daily transfers to at least one other island.
Which islands you choose to stay on depends entirely on your taste. Famous as the favourite holiday destination of the Prince and Princess of Wales, Tresco is a great place for families, thanks to little touches like treasure chests full of beach toys for the kids scattered around the island. You can also rent bikes, visit the famous Tresco Abbey gardens or relax in the spa, which has an indoor pool for those unexpected rainy days. Most options for accommodation in Tresco are self-catering, except for the superb New Inn (from £110), which also serves great pub grub, highlighting local seafood.
Neighbouring Bryher is just across the road from Tresco and is a quieter, more relaxed option. The abundance of honesty boxes dotted around this beautiful island is part of its cute charm. If you’re looking for a little adventure, hire watersports equipment from Hut 62 and head out on the water. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, grab arguably the best crab sandwich on the islands at Fraggle Rock. As for where to stay, Hell Bay is a favourite (rooms start from £210) and a meal at the rustic Crab Shack is unbeatable.
If you want to learn more about the locals, head to St. Martin, which has a quiet, industrious vibe and is home to some of the best, quietest beaches on the islands. Plan your visit for one of the few days a week when the vineyard and winery are open for tours and tastings. There’s also a lovely little rum distillery nearby at SC Dogs, which you can tour. Break up with a visit to Polreath tearoom, where Sarah and Jason serve up a wonderful afternoon tea. If you’d rather have something more substantial, the Seven Stones Inn is another great option. Visit the less chatty – but no less friendly – locals while snorkelling with wild grey seals. At the end of a busy day, unwind at Karma St. Martin (from £308).
If you’re looking for somewhere truly quiet, head to St. Agnes. It’s home to some of the best views of any campsite in England – Troytown. The farm is also famous for its delicious ice cream, which is well deserved after a walk around the island. If you’re looking to learn more about the local wildlife, visit a Gig race or simply island hop, the friendly John Peacock at St. Agnes Boating will be happy to help.
Where to stay
Best for families
When it comes to family-friendly holidays, it’s hard to beat Tresco. The lovely New Inn is the island’s only pub and can accommodate small families in one room or multiple rooms for families. Alternatively, you can opt for self-catering accommodation (tresco.co.uk). If you’re thinking of camping, Troytown campsite (troytown.co.uk) in St Agnes has some of the most spectacular views in the UK.
Best for small island living
In beautiful, rugged Bryher, Hell Bay is the best place to relax and recharge, with stunning surroundings and seasonal cuisine. If you prefer to stay somewhere with its own private jetty, Karma St. Martin’s is a great choice, with its relaxed luxury against a backdrop of white sand.
Best for island trip
St. Mary’s is easily the most accessible island, with the most connections to the other islands. If you’re looking for something high-end, Star Castle has a grand feel with a fascinating history.
and hilltop views. Much more low-key is the St. Mary’s Hall hotel, right in the heart of Hugh Town, with easy access to the attractions and the docks. It also promises an excellent steak.
Find more of the best hotels on the Isles of Scilly in our guide.
To go
The islands are almost completely closed between November and March, with many hotels, restaurants and attractions closing for the season and ferries stopping. Tresco offers winter holidays, with the island spa and New Inn open throughout the season.
Boasting one of the mildest climates in the UK, the Isles of Scilly are known as the ‘sun isles’. Early spring means flowers are in early bloom and puffins, Channel petrels and other nesting birds can be seen from April to July. But if you miss them, seal pups start arriving from August to November, so you’ll never miss out on a wildlife experience.
The islands are at their hottest in July and August, but this is also their busiest time due to the school summer holidays. But with limited accommodation, the islands never feel completely overrun. It’s fun to attend the Low Tide Festival (tresco.co.uk) between Tresco and Bryher, when the lunar cycle causes extremely low tides. There are a handful of these events each year – usually in spring and early autumn.
What to take home
There are many creative types who have been inspired by the beauty of the islands and set up their workshops here. Phoenix Craft Studios (visitislesofscilly.com), in Porthmellon Business Park in St. Mary’s, is an interesting place to wander around, selling everything from jewellery to glass and claywork, prints and scarves by local artisans.
As you wander the islands, you’ll hardly find a visitor who isn’t wearing an IOS sweatshirt (theiosstore.co.uk) from St. Mary’s or a Scilly Billy T-shirt (scillybilly.com/) from St. Martin’s. If you’re looking for something tasty to take home, it’s hard to go past Bryher’s Veronica Farm Fudge (veronicafarmfudge.co.uk). For something a little more unusual, pick up some SC salt (scdogs.co.uk) or golden rum from SC Dogs (sc-salt.co.uk), both from St. Martin’s, or a cloth bag from Rat Bags (ratisland.net) from St. Mary’s.
Basic knowledge
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Transportation by air: The islands can be reached by land or sea. Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk) operates Skybus flights all year round from Land’s End (15-20 minutes; from £121.50 per adult, one way) and from Newquay (30 minutes; from £171.25 per adult, one way) to St Mary’s. It also operates flights from Exeter between March and November (one hour; from £236.50 per adult, one way). Day passengers are allowed cabin baggage only; all others are allowed both hand and carry-on luggage. Penzance Helicopters (penzancehelicopters.co.uk; from £149.50 per adult, one way) also operates flights from Penzance to St Mary’s or Tresco all year round (from 15 minutes).
Transportation by sea: The Scillonian III passenger ferry operates from April to November, departing daily from Penzance. It departs the mainland each morning and returns from St. Mary’s in the late afternoon. The crossing takes 2hr 45min and is operated by Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk; from £76.25 per adult, one way). Atlantic Wolff launched a fast ferry service in summer 2024. It operates twice daily return services from May to October during the main tourist season. The crossing from Penzance to St. Mary’s takes around 1hr 50min (scillyferries.co.uk; from £49 per adult, one way).
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Emergency services: Air and Sea Ambulance/Police/Fire 999
This story was originally published in August 2023 and has been revised and updated.
Author biography
Penny Walker is Features Editor for Telegraph Travel. A self-described UK holiday enthusiast, Penny Walker’s passion for Cornwall began at an early age and popular camping holidays turned into annual pilgrimages. She has explored the Isles of Scilly extensively and it is one of her favourite UK holiday destinations.