Jackie and Malcolm Love stood in the middle of a group of tourists in the heart of Athens, gazing at the Acropolis with awe and admiration. They said the Greek capital’s largest classical site was truly magnificent, but even in April it was so crowded that they preferred to experience it from a distance.
“We didn’t go when there were so many people,” said Jackie, looking down at the fifth-century monument from the cobbled boulevard below. “We didn’t think that was the best thing to do, did we?” she said, nudging her husband.
The couple, who were enjoying a city break from their hometown of Ipswich in England, considered whether to take a private tour instead. The Greek culture ministry is planning personalized visits to the ancient complex costing €5,000 (£4,285). Truck driver Malcolm said, “We won’t pay this money.” “Crazy prices,” Jackie interjected. “Certainly not for people like us.”
The Acropolis attracted more than 22,000 visitors a day last summer, forcing authorities to impose strict controls, including a time-lapse system.
This year, officials have gone one step further and announced a plan to allow visitors to beat the crowds and experience Pericles’ masterpiece in an exclusive way. The initiative envisages four groups of five people being guided by archaeologists who are experts in the field before opening and after closing hours, from 7am to 9am and from 8pm to 10pm, to avoid the thousands of selfie hunters climbing the rocky hill every hour. “We have been receiving requests in this direction from tour operators for a long time,” said Nikoleta Valakou, head of the Greek Organization for the Development of Cultural Resources, a state body affiliated with the culture ministry.
He said the ministry was ready to allow tours for individuals provided they were willing to pay the group fee. “There will also be souvenirs,” added Valakou. “Perhaps a replica of a coin or a replica of a small statue… something that will bring back memories of the unique experience.”
But the measure, part of an overhaul of ticket policy at more than 350 archaeological sites and museums managed by the Greek Ministry of Culture, has triggered anger and cynicism, including from archaeologists. Guides described it as impractical and critics argued it went against the spirit of everything the world’s leading symbol of democracy is supposed to represent. “You’ll see people propose marriage from now on and drink champagne there,” said Despina Koutsoumba, vice president of the country’s association of archaeologists. “If they’ve spent this much money, they’ll feel like they have the right to do whatever they want on the site.”
He said the idea itself was “unacceptably exclusive”. After all, the monument was the emblem of democratic Athens, where citizens had equality before the law.
“What this means is that Greece allows people with money to enjoy the Acropolis in a very exclusive way, while excluding those who do not have such opportunities. We are completely against this,” Koutsoumba added.
Previously, only world leaders, royalty and the odd celebrity were allowed access to the site outside opening hours.
The public, other than academics and conservationists, have one day (August full moon) to enjoy the temples at night.
Opponents of the plan have questioned the logic of the decision at a time when the country’s wealth gap is becoming increasingly apparent. “This is pure elitism,” said Costas Zambas, who has headed restoration efforts at the Acropolis for more than 25 years.
“This idea goes against the spirit of a place we associate with democracy. “The situation is not very good.”
At a time when Athens is facing a climate emergency, tourist guides have raised objections over the feasibility of the plan, which would mean the site would open at 9am instead of 8am for the vast majority. Last summer, the Greek capital, continental Europe’s southernmost metropolis, faced record temperatures of up to 45C (113F), forcing authorities to take the unprecedented step of closing the Acropolis for several days.
“If they push back the opening hours to 9 a.m. because of these private tours, it would be a disaster,” said Kriton Piperas, who until recently was president of the 4,000-strong Federation of Panhellenic Tourist Guides. “For several years our union has been pressing for the Acropolis to open earlier due to changing weather conditions. Remember, it is much hotter there because there is no shade.”
Greece’s pro-business centre-right government is increasingly looking at culture from a purely commercial perspective, he said. “They look at the Acropolis and everything related to tourism as a product,” he said. “This unique tour idea is like putting a price tag on the site; it reminds me of an auction where the highest bidder wins and they say ‘you can have it all to yourself’. This is wrong and is bound to lead to trouble.” .”
Ticket holders on cruise ships, whose numbers are increasing day-trip to the Greek capital, usually make reservations months in advance and have very tight schedules. Many are waiting in line at the Acropolis at 8am.
In his office overlooking Athens’ central boulevard, Valakou said the culture ministry had taken the criticism into account. It is estimated that the tours could bring in up to €40,000 a day, with the proceeds going to cash-strapped cultural projects.
“Proceeds will be reinvested,” he said. “Since the Acropolis will be the first of these types of tours, it will be a pilot program and we will be open to change.”
The signs are not all bad. The plan was welcomed by some in the Greek diaspora; wealthy individuals have already suggested they will sign up.
“I have heard from dozens of friends who have expressed interest in participating in these private tours,” said Peter Poulos, executive director of the Hellenic Initiative, a global Greek diaspora philanthropic organization.
“Why not save people’s money if it will help protect and preserve our cultural monuments for future generations? “We all support the highest ideals, but at the end of the day the ideals will not cover the heavy costs required to run a site of this size.”