Italy has many natural lakes to explore beyond the famous destinations in the north. Many of them are concentrated in the heart of the country, including the beautiful Lake Bracciano and Lake Bolsena in Lazio and Lake Trasimeno in Umbria.
Each is ideal for a standalone trip or as part of a traveling holiday, and while each has its own unique charm, all offer water sports, swimming, cycling and walking. If you like a good castle, look no further; Almost all of the beautiful lakeside towns and picturesque villages have a castle with stunning views of the water.
Fishing traditions are deep-rooted, and local chefs make good use of lake fish such as perch, tench, carp, whitefish and smelt, commonly found grilled, fried, in pasta or in soups. Roman and Umbrian specialties are also very prominent, including artichokes, porchetta, pecorino cheese, delicious pastas and legume-based dishes, and a tempting selection of local wines is available.
While the lakes are filled with city dwellers escaping the heat in the middle of summer, they turn into peaceful oases at other times. Here’s my pick of the best:
Lake Bracciano
The smallest of the three lakes, roughly circular with a circumference of 22 miles, Bracciano is just an hour by train from Rome and you can make it your base to enjoy peaceful evenings by the lake when day trippers arrive from the capital. Ancient Romans built villas on the lakeside, where sailing schools and camping areas are interspersed between the three main settlements of the lake, which is today surrounded by forested hills, olive groves and reeds.
On the north coast is Trevignano Romano, a charming village with Blue Flag status for its black cobblestone lanes and beaches made of local volcanic stone. You can explore the ruins of a 13th-century castle overlooking the lake for free and can be reached via well-maintained stairs. Freshwater fish, homemade pasta and seasonal vegetables are among the specialties served at restaurants such as the excellent Il Porticciolo, located in a secluded bay with a lakeside garden and a shaded gazebo, a short walk from the centre.
The lively town of Bracciano on the west coast is centered around the magnificent and imposing 15th-century Odescalchi Castle, often chosen as the wedding venue for international stars. The castle’s impressive interiors are home to Renaissance art and richly decorated rooms, and the views of the lake from the towers are spectacular. Just outside Bracciano, the collection at the Italian Air Force Museum includes many historic aircraft.
Anguillara Sabazia, on the south coast, has a wide coastline and a maze-like historic center with ruins from ancient Roman, medieval and Renaissance periods, and narrow streets leading to stunning views of the lake. The town’s favorite vegetable – broccoletti – is celebrated at an annual festival: Broccoletti in Piazza (April 14 in 2024).
Lake Bolsena
Romantic landscapes, charming villages, beaches with black volcanic sand, colorful traditions and fine wines aged in ancient caves make Lake Bolsena remarkable. The largest lake of volcanic origin in Europe, it is located in the Tuscia region, north of Lazio, and is home to heavily evocative Etruscan sites.
Bolsena itself has an attractive stone-built centre, dating back to a magnificent medieval castle, and, a five-minute walk away, the charming Etruscan-Roman district of Poggio Moscini. The Corpus Domini festival, celebrated with intricate flower petal designs in the center (June 2, 2024), originated in the basilica of Santa Cristina, which features atmospheric catacombs.
Bolsena’s lakeside trattorias specialize in freshwater fish, while the centre’s delicatessens Antica Norcineria Morelli and Retrogusto are ideal for plates filled with local produce.
On the west coast are the attractive villages of Marta and Capodimonte, which are starting points for boat trips around the island, while towering over the south coast is Montefiascone, an important transit point on the Via Francigena pilgrims’ route to Rome.
Montefiascone’s highest point is its statuesque castle, the town’s cathedral dome is a landmark that can be seen for miles, and San Flaviano has stunning frescoes and is home to the tomb of 12th-century wine lover Johannes Defuk, whose name is thanks to the quirky name of Montefiascone’s famous white wine. , ‘EST! EST!! EST!!!’ During the Fiera del Vino festival (1-15 August 2024), you can taste typical dishes such as the simple Dante, tasting on the panoramic terrace of the family-run Stefanoni or in trattorias. Semi-aromatic red Aleatico is the signature wine of the northern end of the lake; Antonella Pacchiarotti, who has a small, historic winery in the village of Grotte di Castro, makes six different versions.
Lake Trasimeno
With a circumference of 56 kilometers followed by a cycle path, Trasimeno in northwestern Umbria is the largest lake in central Italy. On a headland on the west coast, near the Tuscan border, is Castiglione del Lago, the main hub with a variety of restaurants, including the Slow Food-approved L’Acquario. Along with delicious fish dishes, try the special fagiolina del Trasimeno beans and smooth wines made with Trasimeno gamay, the local name for grenache.
For other wines from the region, book a tasting at the nearby Madrevite winery. If you can, come to the Trasimeno rosé festival during Castiglione’s annual tulip festival (April 25 – May 1, 2024) or the Castello di Vino event in Corciano (early October).
Castiglione’s highlight, the richly frescoed Renaissance Palazzo della Corgna, is connected by a 180-metre causeway to a medieval castle overlooking the lake; The views from the walls are magnificent. Located on the north-east coast, Passignano sul Trasimeno has a charming fishing village feel and its own panoramic castle. The historic Cooperativa Pescatori del Trasimeno in San Feliciano offers fishing trips and a lakeside restaurant. Ferries depart from here to Isola Polvese, one of the lake’s three islands and home to the environmental research centre. Isola Maggiore is home to a small community and attractions include a museum dedicated to the island’s lace-making tradition; Ferries here from Tuoro sul Trasimeno take just ten minutes.
A great place to stay near Tuoro is Montemelino, an award-winning olive oil and wine estate offering attractive accommodation in converted stone farm buildings. Also reflecting Umbria’s characteristic rural charm, Podere Marella winery has a delightful, secluded, self-catering, five-bedroom stone farmhouse surrounded by woodland and vines.