Children waved enthusiastically next to the landing strip as our plane touched down at the Cocos (Keeling) Islands: a tiny patch of land consisting of two atolls of 27 atolls in a remote corner of the Indian Ocean between Australia and Sri Lanka. Only two of these islands are inhabited – Home Island and West Island – with the latter being home to the world’s only nine-hole golf course played on an active international circuit. Golfers hit their swings in between biweekly flights, during which planes bring government employees, returning residents and—very occasionally—a visitor or two.
The history of the islands sounds like the plot of a Netflix mini-series. It was discovered by English sea captain William Keeling in 1609, but there was no permanent settlement here until it was founded by Alexander Hare in 1826. Scottish merchant John Clunies-Ross soon took over the copra industry and turned the islands into a household. Australia ran the asylum for more than a century until it took control in 1955. Today’s population consists of approximately 600 Cocos Malay residents on Home Island, as well as Australian expatriates and workers on the West Island, who have a unique indigenous culture that unites Australia, Malaysia and Australia. Indonesian influences.
The archipelago’s dual name is the result of an ever-changing name over the centuries – although it has been officially called the Cocos (Keeling) Islands since 1955 – and like many of its Indian Ocean counterparts, it is characterized by jade-coloured waters and pristine white sands. beaches densely lined with palm trees.
From the airport, I took the 30-minute ferry across the lagoon to Home Island, where I checked into Oceania House, the former Clunies-Ross farm, now a living museum and hotel run by Greg and former cellar master and beekeeper Paula Carnell. respectively at Somerset’s the Newt. Paula took me on a hiking adventure south of the Main Island, from Pulo Ampang Major to Pulu Kumbang at low tide, and I asked her what draws people here.
“Coco is all about connection,” he told me. “With people, oceans, lands, trees, birds, fish; Everything here is unique and the experience of being here truly changes you forever. “It leaves a mark.”
Intrigued, I set out to test his theory.
Despite the archipelago’s small footprint, it has plenty on offer for the small number of tourists who come to visit (barely 4,000 seen in total in 2023). Various companies offer fishing, surfing, kayaking safaris, e-bike tours (led by sixth-generation Clunies-Ross descendant Johnny) and kitesurfing, and there are cultural tours as well as local attractions like The Big. Barge Arts Center and Wild Coconut Discovery Center, where visitors learn how coconut chips and coconut ice cream are produced.
But the 500 species of fish that live in the lagoon often make the headlines; so I signed up for a snorkeling tour at the eastern atoll. Waters were delivered almost immediately. At our first stop, the Nursery near the island of Pulu Jabang, as soon as I submerged my head, a calm reef shark swam past me just a meter away; then we discovered the wreck of the Coal Barge (also known as the Phaeton), which sank into shallow waters in 1889, now a haven for triggerfish, yellowfin goatfish, and sergeant-major damselfish. We finished the day with a picnic at Cossies Beach on Direction Island, considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Australia.
The next day, eager to see more of the lagoon, I joined a guided boat tour with captain Pete and second mate Amy and headed out to the “rip” at Direction Island, where a swift current flows from the outer reef into the lagoon. It was an exhilarating snorkeling experience among vibrant reef fish; whitetip reef sharks dart around healthy coral and isolated “bomyas” (the Australian name for places where waves break over a shallow reef). I was fascinated.
On my last day, I took a rental car and drove to Scout Park at the southern tip of West Island and walked along a waterway to the secluded Pulu Maraya Island. Despite the strong current tugging at my reef shoes, I soon reached the famous snorkeling current, where thousands of coral fish swam peacefully beneath the surface among the shallow water and the stony seabed. And then, suddenly, two large turtles appeared beside me, floating in companionable silence, unimpressed. One turned and looked me in the eye, then both walked away as calmly as they had come. The Cocos (Keeling) Islands had left their mark.
Fundamentals
Rebecca Foreman was a guest of Tourism Australia (tourism.australia.com)
How to get there
Flights depart from London to Perth every day, connecting via hubs in the Middle East (Emirates, Qatar Airways, Etihad), Asia (Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Malaysian Airlines) or Australia (Qantas).
Virgin Australia (virginaustralia.com) flies to the Cocos (Keeling) Islands twice a week from Perth international airport for £582 return. Ferries run regularly and tickets cost £1.30 one way.
Where to stay
Oceania House (cocoskeelingislands.com.au) has double rooms from £122 per night.
What should we do
Cocosday (cocosislandsboatandfishing.com) offers half-day boat tours from £156 per person and motorized canoe safaris from £88 per person; Cocos Blue Charters (cocosblue.com.au) has cruises from £104 per person; Phat Tours Cocos (facebook.com) offers e-bike tours from £26 per person.
I need to know
• Out of respect for local Islamic traditions, women are asked to cover their shoulders and knees when visiting the Main Island
• Connectivity only possible via Wi-Fi, which is widely available in most accommodation
• Daily temperatures vary between 23 and 33 degrees throughout the year. Tropical climate: rainy from December to April, dry season from May to November