Winter by the sea has a rhythm, and in Brighton winter begins with the starlings in November.
According to Countryfile, up to 40,000 birds from as far away as Scandinavia arrive at Brighton pier to spend the winter with their local cousins. They come by fives, sevens, eights and dozens, coming down chimneys and rooftops towards the sea, growing the herd before your eyes. In one of nature’s great choreographed shows, the formation creates eddies and waves on, under and between the beams of the city’s two piers, marking sunrise and sunset between November and February.
When our instinct in cold weather is to hide, connecting with the elements can become a battle. Yet for most of us, communing with nature and meeting this biophilic need is very important in winter. I had no connection with winter until I moved from the city to live by the sea. I’ve never seen a winter sunrise. Sardines were something I ate. Now, thanks to year-round swims, I can’t imagine life without them.
Shaking for a minute or two before breakfast sounds like the ultimate winter trick. Sunrise, no matter how fleeting, can show itself on the most boring days. At the West Pier there may be geese, a blizzard of starlings and on rare occasions a seal. Our swimmers WhatsApp group is full of “swim rises” muttering clips, tide times, moon phases and – South Water to you – sewage warnings.
No two days are the same. Instead of the punchy rollers you expect, it may be sparkling, silky “champagne surf.” “Swimming” in winter is a misnomer. The tough days are for “rocking” – sitting on pebbles, holding on and letting the salt water wash over you, or jumping up and down on the waves at low tide and screaming like a six-year-old.
Living by the sea teaches you to read the sky. Cloud cushions on the horizon give the sea an extra dimension. Winter sunrises gild the edges of low clouds and pamper the sky like fire. An unexpected sunset on the cliffs or on the Sussex Downs on a cool December afternoon can change everything.
As the starlings gather, so do the squalls (which come with a hood; not a brolly). As the rain or clouds begin to gently blow in – beachgoers are outside – lining up for ice cream, greeting friends and neighbors, running, walking the dogs or wrapping themselves in blankets on the pebbles. In this wintery seaside passeggiata, summer’s bun fights become a distant memory. The promenades and beaches are ours and we won’t waste a minute.
If you’ve never seen a murmuration before, hop on the train this winter, head down the Queen’s Road and take up position on or next to one of Brighton’s two piers at dusk. It might be the best wildlife show you’ll see this side of the Serengeti.
Five great seaside getaways for winter
Tidal views from a Cornish inn
The spectacular setting of the thatched-roof Pandora Inn on Restronguet Creek attracts drinkers and diners year-round. But in the winter months, its low-beamed ceilings, cozy corners and flickering fires come into its own. The menu includes a superb fish pie, premium Plowman’s and Cornish cream tea served from 10am to 5pm. Get there with a short walk from Mylor Bridge or take longer hikes from Mylor Marina and Flushing.
Where to stay: Stylish and comfortable rooms in tones of petrol blue, wood and sandy beige set the tone at Falmouth’s St Michael’s Resort (doubles from £113). Keep warm in the barrel sauna, hot tub and indoor heated pool.
Step onto Kent’s new Coast Path
King Henry III between Ramsgate and Whitstable. This newly opened 25-mile stretch of the Charles Coast Highway offers something for everyone. Wander among the chalky sea stacks of Botany Bay, explore the ruins of St Mary’s Church at Reculver, sample fresh seafood at Whitstable’s oyster shacks, ride the carousel on Herne Bay’s historic pier or do some art at Turner Contemporary in Margate See his works. Charles Dickens’s holiday home, Bleak House, in Broadstairs overlooks Viking Bay. Enjoy the same sea view with a beer at The Charles Dickens.
Where to stay: Margate’s Old Barrel Store offers dog-friendly cottage-style accommodation in what used to be a former brewery building.
Warming drama on Scottish coasts
With a milder climate than most of Scotland, the Speyside Highland region of Moray has all the makings of a romantic winter getaway, filled with exhilarating coastal walks, dolphin-watching, visits to fishing villages and whiskey tasting. More than half of Scotland’s malt whiskey distilleries are located here, including the gold-plated working distilleries of Glenlivet, Glen Moray and Glenfiddich, the UK’s only working co-operative in Dufferin, and the 18th-century Strathisla Distillery. If skies are clear, head to Lossiemouth East Beach or Bow Fiddle Rock in Portknockie for a chance to see the northern lights.
Where to stay: Views of the Moray Firth and Black Isle and the Moray Way, the white beaches of Findhorn, Speyside’s Malt Whiskey Trail and two 18-hole golf courses.
Seeing the stars in Wales
Located on the tip of Wales, the Pembrokeshire Coast is home to eight Dark Sky sites. In the summer, Broad Haven South Beach is known for its wind dune-covered beach; In winter, the towering cliff stacks above are a prime spot for viewing meteor showers, comets, constellations, and galaxies, including our Milky Way. The National Trust hosts special dark sky events at the nearby Stackpole Centre. Nearby Stackpole and Bosherston are within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.
Offering local beers from Purple Moose and Mumbles breweries and whiskeys from Penderyn, the award-winning Stackpole Inn’s menus feature mainly local produce.
Where to stay: Turn a stargazing trip into something extra special at Strawberry Gothic-style Penally Abbey (doubles from £190) overlooking the sea near Tenby.
Sea of vitamins in Yorkshire
Beachside saunas: that’s a thing. Beach Box Sauna in Brighton opened its horse-drawn carriage saunas in Banjo Groyne over a decade ago and today offers wood-fired saunas on or near beaches in Norfolk, Suffolk, Dorset, Aberdeen, Fyfe’s East Neuk and the Isle of Wight. You will find saunas. , Cork, Kerry and Kent.
Whitby Wellbeing has pop-up tent saunas on the north-east coast of Yorkshire in Whitby, Scarborough, Hornsea, Cayton Bay, Runswick Bay Saltburn and Seaton Carew. Check out the calendar of festival, full moon and new moon events.
Where to stay: Scarborough’s dog-friendly Bike & Boot hotel (doubles from £80) is a five-minute walk from the beach. The hotel has a casual restaurant, bike and surfboard storage, and a cinema room with screenings at 15:00, 18:00 and 21:00.