For the better part of a decade, the international travel press has been describing Tbilisi as the new Berlin, Europe’s most exciting city and an emerging fashion capital. But with no direct flights since the start of the Covid pandemic, British tourists are missing out on the charm of this dynamic, seductive and ever-changing destination.
Fortunately, this will change soon. Start-up airline Air Iveria will launch a route from Gatwick to Georgia’s capital on May 13, cutting travel time to just over four hours and making a long weekend visit realistic. This summer it’s time to head east to Europe’s Caucasus border and experience everything new.
Aviation analyst Sean Moulton sees the resumption of flights to London as part of Georgia’s bid to establish closer ties with the West, and increased tourist arrivals will certainly boost the economy. International involvement appears to be one of the driving forces behind Georgian creativity, and numerous foreign artists, designers and entrepreneurs flock to Tbilisi in search of inspiration, adding their own energy and ideas to the mix.
Tbilisi’s fashion scene rivals London and Paris in terms of imagination, if not height. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi is one of the city’s biggest cultural events, and the next installment will take place in early May 2024, likely to coincide with the Zero Compromise natural wine festival.
Georgian designers have a well-deserved reputation for bold political statements: Last year’s collections at MBFW Tbilisi were described as follows: Vogue “It’s like a rallying cry for Georgia’s fashion community against the war in Ukraine, conservative politics, and the ongoing threat of anti-LGBTQ+ sentiment.” Tbilisi offers Ukrainian designers a platform alongside their Georgian counterparts, and outside of fashion week, you can shop from both nationalities at Ne.Klassika, a new concept store focused on sustainable clothing. Fashion lovers should also recognize the outrageously flamboyant Akà Prodiàshvili and the more mainstream but still elegant Situationist.
Berhasm, which exhibited in Tbilisi as well as Paris Fashion Week, is a collective of fashion designers, artists and musicians from Georgia, Russia and Ukraine. Its founding in Tbilisi predates the Russian occupation but is representative of creators who find themselves in voluntary or involuntary exile in Georgia. Members of the group grew up under the shadow of Soviet rule and share this history as well as a determination to stand up to oppression through creativity. Pioneered by Georgian designer Beso Turazashvili, the Berhasm clothing brand emerged from Eastern Europe’s club scene, and its collections, campaigns and events always speak loudly to social causes.
Art dealer David Finestein moved to Tbilisi from New York in 2021 and set up his gallery, Dissolution, in a downtown basement. “By creating an accessible space, I was able to worry less about the financial aspects of the gallery and focus more on showing artists I could connect with,” she explains. Finestein supports the work of emerging artists from Georgia and abroad and creates a platform for cross-border projects, such as the Azerbaijani and Georgian photographers working together in the F37 alliance.
International cooperation is also the name of the game at the Tbilisi Museum of Photography and Multimedia. TPMM recently joined forces with American “punk poet” Patti Smith’s Soundwalk Collective to stage a two-month multi-sensory exhibition exploring the growing impacts of climate change. TPMM curators are particularly interested in the role of women photographers in examining, promoting and advocating change, and organize workshops and events as well as exhibitions.
Tbilisi is a master of reinvention and has re-imagined itself many times over the nearly ten years I have been visiting. Georgia’s geography, politics and economy may be challenging, but it seems to fuel a creative fire and lead to relentless experimentation. Add in the unlikely combination of a proud, strong national identity as well as enthusiasm for welcoming strangers, and something magical happens. There’s nowhere I’d rather be when new flights to Tbilisi start.
Where to stay
With a dramatic location, Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel (radissonhotels.com; rooms from £132) is located in the heart of Tbilisi, overlooking not only the city but also the river and mountains. Just for the views of the indoor infinity pool, you’ll want to visit Anne Semonin Spa and dine at least once at Umami, where chefs serve theatrical fine dining.
If you have more than a weekend, combine Tbilisi’s city views with rest and relaxation at the Tsinandali Estate in Kakheti (tsinandaliestate.ge). This is the country’s main wine region, and Tsinandali has its own vineyard and winery, a palace and a gorgeous, contemporary Radisson Collection Hotel (rooms from £120).
where to eat
Food is a critical part of any visit to Tbilisi, and Georgian hospitality is such that you can’t help but return home fatter and happier. Republic 24 (republic.ge) offers a modern twist on traditional Georgian cuisine. Don’t miss the election Pkhali, vegetable-based pastes with ground walnuts and pomegranate seeds; or khinkali, giant steamed dumplings with a variety of fillings. On weekends, the restaurant is open 24 hours a day (hence the name), so if partying has made you hungry, you can always stop by at 4am. khachapuriGeorgia’s unforgettable melted cheese bread.
Where to drink
Tbilisi is famous for its nightlife, but Noble Savage (noble-savage.club) is particularly cool and is open every Friday and Saturday night from 23:00. International acts frequently take to the stage – R&B singer Macy Gray, Afro-Brazilian percussionist and DJ NenaHalena, and Berlin club favorite Madmotormiquel all performed in 2023 – but you’ll also hear the latest local sounds.
For a quieter (or earlier) night, nearby Republic Bar (republic.ge) offers a creative cocktail menu: Yellow Jade (laurel-flavored vodka, Quaglia Bergamotto, sea berry, lemongrass, lemon, licorice) or Sizmara (aniseed). and coriander) – brewed white rum, Golden Falernum, watermelon, lemon, celery bitters) will set you back just over £7. The bar also has an excellent local wine list, including the historic Tsinandali Estate Winery, which was the first place where Georgian wine was bottled in the 1840s.
Take a tour
Back Streets of Tbilisi (tbilisifreewalkingtours.com; Sunday and Tuesday at 12pm) is a free walking tour that combines the interesting architecture and stories of the German Settlement, New Tbilisi and parts of the Old Town. The itinerary includes the Dry Bridge Flea Market, and if there’s something there that catches your eye, it can be very helpful to have a local guide on hand to bargain on your behalf.
Avoid crowds
The 160-hectare National Botanical Garden of Georgia (nbgg.ge) is located in the very center of Tbilisi. You can enter from the Old City. Due to its proximity to the castle, there were royal gardens here in the 17th century, but it has expanded greatly and is now home to more than 4,500 plant species. It’s an amazing place to explore, especially in nice weather.