Everyone is on the world’s most magnificent train journey

By | March 26, 2024

A suite on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (Belmond)

Likewise, I’ve never really embraced the concept of guilty pleasures – if you love something, then you definitely love something, no matter how embarrassing it is (and I say this as a huge fan of the 2009 film The Proposal). Sandra Bullock and Ryan Reynolds) – so I’ve never really entertained the idea of ​​a gap year or bucket list. A gap year seems to me like a misguided right of millennials, the idea that higher education is so stressful and the prospect of full-time employment so daunting that the obvious recourse is to get drunk in many foreign places for 12 months. possible. Angry.

Likewise with the to-do list. There are still many things I want to do in the world, but I don’t have places I want to visit, bridges I want to bungy jump over (short list), or a secret Word Document full of esoteric information. or thick books that I particularly want to read. I also have no interest in running a marathon in Madagascar, doing a triathlon in Tasmania or skydiving in the Seychelles. The to-do list in my eyes has always been a false diversion that social media platforms like Pinterest and Instagram provide more oxygen. Although I’m a big fan of Instagram, I don’t see Instagram primarily as a tool to show everyone the paragliding I did in Austria (except for the one time I went paragliding in Austria).

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express passes through Austria's Brenner Pass (Belmond)Venice Simplon-Orient-Express passes through Austria's Brenner Pass (Belmond)

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express passes through Austria’s Brenner Pass (Belmond)

But this was always different, as the idea of ​​using the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express had been quietly lingering in my mind for years. I once took the train from Waterloo to the south coast (I had no idea how I got back) and the experience was absolutely terrible; it was an old-fashioned idea of ​​what rail travel could be in those days. An eye-catching innovation rather than an unpleasant necessity. That’s why I wanted to do it again.

The classic Venice Simplon-Orient-Express journey is a wonderful 24-hour journey from Venice to Paris. Of course, if you can, it makes sense to spend some time in Venice beforehand, which is what I did, at the recently beautifully renovated Ca’ di Dio hotel belonging to the Belmond group. It’s located on the Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice’s main waterfront, and yet this former pilgrim hostel is the least touristy five-star hotel in the city.

Hotel Ca Di Dio, Venice (Venice)Hotel Ca Di Dio, Venice (Venice)

Hotel Ca Di Dio, Venice (Venice)

There’s a sexy little bar, two great restaurants, and so many well-appointed common areas (as well as a lovely secluded courtyard) that you feel a tremendous sense of freedom. The hotel feels discreet and personal but is actually quite large. They’ve chosen to decorate the place in an almost modernist way, the doorman is full of off-the-grid recommendations (I spent a day wandering around the Jewish quarter), and the place has a contemporary feel, although it doesn’t feel challenging at all. I’ve stayed in many of the so-called “best” hotels in Venice, but I highly recommend trying this one.

When it was time to board the train, I was escorted to the motorboat by members of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express crew, who seemed as excited as I was about the prospect of the journey. Nothing represents a brand more than the people who work for it, and the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express team in Venice has embraced the experience with such enthusiasm that your excitement seems entirely reasonable. And as soon as I got on the train, I understood why. I was lucky enough to get one of the few Grand Suites and I must say it made such a difference. If you’re considering doing this – and I wholeheartedly recommend you do so – then go the extra mile (or more) and go for the upgrade, because you won’t regret it. The double bed is almost train-wide, while the living room and bathroom never feel less than palatial. This is true Art Deco luxury, where embroidered silk sits alongside Lalique glass, Baccarat crystal and table decorations, instantly transporting you back to a time when there were more options on the train than cardboard straws rather than spoons, plastic milk bags and Costa. quality coffee. Whether it’s the chilled bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne and imperial caviar waiting for you when you check in to your room or the white-gloved breakfast service, you’ll never be allowed to forget that you’re in for an extraordinarily pampering experience on the train.

Dining room on board the Venetian Simplon-Orient-Express (Belmond)Dining room on board the Venetian Simplon-Orient-Express (Belmond)

Dining room on board the Venetian Simplon-Orient-Express (Belmond)

You are encouraged to have fun, and that’s what I did. Other than the hours spent in deep sleep, there seems not to be a moment when I am not asked to drink this, taste that, or order another dish from an unforgiving menu that tempts as much as it excites. I ate so much during my trip that, for a brief, slightly glorious moment, I thought I might turn into Monty Python’s Mr. Creosote by asking for a very fine mint after dinner. A friend of mine who had previously been on this trip said that he momentarily began to question the appropriateness of sipping perfectly served Chardonnay at lunchtime in full apron and tucker (you’ll be asked to dress for lunch and dinner, the latter being quite formal). ) as we sped through the Swiss Alps, but like him, I quickly forgot about it after two or three glasses. After the fourth I started thinking about how extravagant my pocket square would be for dinner (I ended up using all of Hermès).

Last summer I was doing some work in the south of France and was put up in a swanky new hotel overlooking Monaco. Just as seasoned (or, in my case, spoiled) travelers often come to expect more than what is delivered, I spent my time looking for flaws in the design, the service, the food, the party. In the end I couldn’t find it and I’m thinking the same for the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. This is an excellent experience, a historical time capsule of an experience and one that is completely fulfilling. There were many people on the train celebrating anniversaries and birthdays (big birthdays) and wanting to cross that off their to-do lists. No one I spoke to was disappointed, but most thought the delivery was actually better than expected. Now all I want is a to-do list. Or maybe a gap year.

Guests are asked to dress formally for dinner (Belmond)Guests are asked to dress formally for dinner (Belmond)

Guests are asked to dress formally for dinner (Belmond)

An overnight trip in one of the new suites on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express Belmond Train starts from £7,260 per person. This includes pre- and post-cruise transfers, a 24-hour personal cabin attendant, marble en-suite suite, custom-made amenities and complimentary kimono and slippers, as well as a four-course dinner with sommelier wines, lunch and breakfast. Designed by Michelin star chef Jean Imbert. Visit to make a reservation belmond.com

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