Picture an image of Beverly Hills and what comes to mind? Maybe whitewashed mansions with porticoed entrances? Cruising hilly roads, whirring Teslas and whirring classics? Taking a look at the rich and famous? All of these can be found on the outskirts of London, in England’s own Beverly Hills.
Or at least that’s what the data shows. Eight of England’s 10 wealthiest boroughs – the area with the highest percentage of home sales over £1 million in 2023 – are in central London, according to research by estate agent Savills. Chelsea are top of the league (a rare opportunity to use that phrase these days), with Westminster and Camden in second and third.
However, the two boroughs with no London postcodes on the list are Elmbridge and Mole Valley. So what’s going on in these neighboring areas, one in an urban community, the other manicured in the lush valleys of Surrey? I spent a weekend there to find out.
Land of kings, elites and oligarchs
My weekend in Beverly Hills, England, began on the single-track Bridge of Wey, which marks the entry point to the borough of Elmbridge. The bridge collapsed under the weight of SUVs during my visit, but the upper echelons of society had known about this corner of the country for some time. In the 16th century, Henry VIII built a palace called Oatlands in the area. This was a desirable spot, given its proximity to the river; this meant that the king could hop on a boat from Westminster or nearby Hampton Court Palace without having to cross the sometimes impassable roads.
The castle came into use by future rulers before being demolished in the 17th century, but the local community continued to grow. In 1890 Weybridge became the first town in England to be lit entirely by electricity, but locals were unhappy with the unsightly overhead cables, so the local government soon reverted to gas. Perhaps the moment that cemented Elmbridge’s prosperity was the early 20th-century opening of the St George’s Hill estate, home to some of the most ostentatious homes England has ever seen.
St George’s Hill was the vision of local builder Walter George Tarrant, who bought the land in the 1910s and 1920s and sold it to celebrities and entrepreneurs as a sort of idyllic “pleasure area” away from the ever-expanding capital. The 964-acre enclosure has hosted superstars from John Lennon to Kate Winslet, Jenson Button to Elton John.
I was lucky enough to wander around the grounds a few times visiting friends (who, I might add, also lived in one of the several summer cottages on the grounds) and World War II. I can report that there are some buildings like degrees. Hamstone House, in art deco style, resembles palaces rather than mansions. As for spotting celebrities? It’s a tough job when all the cars’ windows are blacked out. But they’re definitely there.
That’s it for Beverly Hills so far. Although, like its counterpart in California, this private estate is home to Russian oligarchs. Allegedly a quarter of the 430 houses are Russian-owned and many remain vacant following Putin’s invasion of Ukraine and the subsequent mutual travel ban between Britain and Russia. It’s no wonder, then, that a bevy of security guards question everyone who arrives and politely turn you away unless you’re playing golf or visiting a resident.
When it’s not a gilded invitation to St George’s Hill Estate, a walk east along the River Wey from the Bridge of Wey offers the chance to peek into the perfectly manicured gardens of ostentatious riverside houses. In fact, you could happily spend a whole day exploring the River Wey towpaths and Godalming Navigations, but for a taste of the finer things in life it’s just a short journey south to Elmbridge’s sister site, the Mole Valley.
A glimpse into high society
After crossing the M25 I arrived at the Mole Valley, much of which falls within the Surrey Hills “National Landscape” (the modern parlance of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). It’s a landscape of thriving sparkling wine vineyards and looming hills; Leith and Box offer some of the best views in the region. But Beaverbrook is where people will watch and be seen. One of Britain’s most exclusive country resorts, it is named after its former owner, politician, broadcaster and newspaper baron Lord Beaverbrook, who bought the property on a whim during a trip with his friend Rudyard Kipling (as you do). .
Stepping through the heavy gates of Beaverbrook is a glimpse into a bygone era of British high society. Over an old-school cocktail at the Gatsby-style Sir Frank’s Bar, overlooking the hotel’s tiered gardens, I overheard a conversation between two guests. Inevitably they would exchange notes about cigars. Elsewhere on the site, guests can enjoy a treatment in the high-spec spa or a round of the golf course, reputed to be one of the best in the country, with a well-known annual membership fee of £100,000.
If you’re out to find a room, it may be tempting for a moment to fully embrace the claim of being part of the 0.01 percent. But there’s plenty to discover in England’s Beverly Hills. So from your bedroom – perhaps the Churchill room or the Macmillan room – you might want to pour out your complimentary glass of Sipsmith sloe gin, find your complimentary notepad and pen, and create a to-do list that includes some of the following:
A walk in an extraordinary park
Many Londoners have never heard of Painshill, which is nonsense considering it’s only 25 miles from district one. This 18th-century landscape garden was created by eccentric MP Charles Hamilton. Inspired by two “grand tours” across Europe, he commissioned a series of follies to populate his land around a serpentine lake dotted with small islands.
Many of its original (fake) buildings have been restored, including a Gothic temple, the ruins of a monastery, a Roman mausoleum, a mock Ottoman tent, and a limestone cave; each as brilliantly entertaining as the next, and some of these are television shows We Married at First Sight And Bridgerton. They are currently fundraising to restore the Chinese Bridge, you can donate here if you wish (admission £12.10 adults, £6.60 children).
A day out with the kids
If you do not have a child between the ages of 1 and 14, you can and should politely move on to the next section of the article. But if you have your scares during your weekend in England’s Beverly Hills, Bocketts Farm is a remarkable place to exhaust them. Farm animals, go-karts, soft play, tractor rides, slides, trampolines and pig racing (including a contestant called “Jack Squealish”) make this a surefire winner. The only downside is the entrance fee: £17 for adults, £18.50 for children aged 3-17 and £16.50 for children aged 2-3. Luckily, children under two can enter for free.
Michelin star dining
For a special occasion, look no further than the Michelin-starred Sorrel restaurant in Dorking. When Telegram‘s Michael Deacon visited and wrote in his five-star review: “I guess you could call the food at Sorrel British, but in reality any classification is pointless because every dish is so inventive. Great, great meal. If you want to pay real money for something special this is the place to go.” Sold.
Where to drink
Forget fancy wine bars. Here you go straight to the source. Surrey Hills is home to some of the finest vineyards in the country, including the largest single estate vineyard at Denbies. It offers a well-rounded experience, with three restaurants to choose from (including an informal canteen area) and Denbies’ fine wines sold in the well-stocked gift shop and farm shop.
Its award-winning Orange Solaris wine is one of its best-selling wines, company CEO Christopher White told me on a tour of the property. There are other vineyards worth visiting in the area, including Greyfriars, Albury, High Clandon and Chilworth Manor, and if the weather is good you can hire a bike at Denbies.
Where to stay
If you’re doing a big business, which you’re definitely in Beverly Hills, England, it’s Beaverbrook or nothing. The site is family friendly and has an outstanding kids’ club run by Sharky and George. Dinner, bed and breakfast packages start from £633 per night for two adults sharing a room. For dinner, if you still have room after lunch at Sorrel and orange wine at Denbies, you can choose between the less formal Garden House (try the Dover sole) or the Dining Room, which serves the best sushi this side of Shinjuku.