In any case, it is impressive that the V&A has chosen to profile Naomi Campbell with a special exhibition. The only cultural figures he has previously documented with his own shows are David Bowie and Kylie. Once you’ve gone through the stages of more than 100 looks the 54-year-old supermodel has worn throughout her 40-year career, there’s no denying her importance. Yes, it’s about Campbell, but it also serves as a comprehensive visual history of the fashion industry over the last four decades; Throughout this period he has been a central channel.
Legend has it that the film opens with a brave 15-year-old ballet student from Streatham being spotted by Beth Boldt after school in Covent Garden. She was lying on the bed, wearing her mother’s coat and shoes, and speaking to Campbell in a voiceover of her modeling origin story. He didn’t tell his mother because he didn’t want to warn her about his limitless career in the city.
His rise quickly destroyed the lie. Before she turned 16, she appeared on the cover of ELLE magazine. She was living in New York at the age of 17, and at the age of 18 she was the first black model to appear on the cover of French Vogue magazine. The first locker contains old ballet shoes, a school photo, a Concord boarding pass and a backstage pass to Yves Saint Laurent. ‘It was not unusual for me to be in New York on a Monday, go to Paris that night, return on a Tuesday and cross the Atlantic up to three times that week.’ Quoted.
Her dressing room showcases her world; an open Louis Vuitton box containing notes to Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen’s former designer), room cards from Claridges, a polaroid camera and a copy of Nelson Mandela’s Long Walk to Freedom. Unfortunately, he does not have his own 1994 novel, Swan.
A short film pays tribute to the trailblazing Black models who came before and alongside Campbell, including Karen Alexander, Veronica Webb, and Beverly Peele. The attraction is obvious: Yves Saint Laurent’s feathered cocktail dress, which Campbell credits with threatening to pull French Vogue’s ad unless it was on the cover. ‘She was a designer… she really helped women of color and changed the course of my career.’ Versace’s Andy Warhol dress, Thierry Mugler car corset and Chanel two-piece add to the line-up of iconic fashion pieces.
Of course, there’s also the soundtrack to George Michael’s song Freedom, a video montage of key moments in the Campbells’ career, the lead roles in that song’s video, the endless catwalk appearances – Versace’s finale reprisals alongside fellow superstars Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington and LInda Evangelista including – and dancing with Michael Jackson in The Closet directed by Herb Ritts. In 1993, Michael and Nelson are seen embracing Madela (whom she calls grandpa) and gracefully tumbling down Vivienne Westwood’s 12-inch blue moc-croc platforms. A feature of the V&A’s permanent collection, these shoes are designed here, in full view, on a fallen mannequin.
“I’m late, but Naomi is always later than me, she was even later than me at my own wedding.”
Kate Moss
The section devoted to his close relationship with the late Azzedine Alaïa includes, among other sensational pieces, the shoes he created with the heel resting on his legs. He is quoted as saying about his body that “his musculature resembles that of a racehorse.”
Among many other things, Kate Moss (“I’m late, but Naomi is always later than me, even at my own wedding”) and Janet Jackson (“Do I look beautiful? I must look beautiful because I’m talking about someone flawless. Walking, walking, can we talk about walking?”) and Usher (“The first time I met Naomi Campbell, I was in a dream”).
It’s a kind of foundation balanced against the rapturous enthusiasm of his high-profile fans. Opposite him is a strange column discussing his conviction for third-degree assault for throwing a phone at his assistant. Professional as she is, we’re treated to a W magazine story of her filming herself in full Dolce & Gabbana look during her five-day public service.
Upstairs, the magnificence is dazzling; The screens show countless magazine covers, fashion shoots, shows and campaign images, from Vogues to Playboy. The double-decker scenes include outfits from Alexander McQueen’s recent Plato Atlantis show, the pink feathered Valentino dress she wore to the 2019 Met Gala and, quite brilliantly, her peak Covid airport Hazmat suit look.
If you’re feeling inspired, you can aim to emulate Campbell’s signature serpentine walk, take your turn by watching the interactive catwalk video here. You may feel like you’ve been brainwashed into admiring Miss Campbell, but it’s a great testament to the privileged position our Streatham girl holds at the heart of the fashion industry – and against blatant racism. against the odds.
It is impossible not to admire his determination and skill. There’s still no one prowling the podium quite like Campbell; Having had the thrill of seeing him live a few times, it’s always a pleasure. Go and enjoy. In the words of Boy George, “There can only be one Naomi”.
NAOMI: In Fashion, 22 June – 6 April 2025, V&A, Powered by BOSS