Samata Pattinson, CEO and founder of cultural sustainability organization Black Pearl, played a key role in developing the programming for the first cultural and entertainment pavilion at COP28, the 28th United Nations Climate Change conference, taking place in Dubai in December 2023. program brought up fashion and culture for the first time at the COP.
Pattinson has hosted numerous panels with representatives from leading luxury brands, including Prada, Gucci and Versace; In a fireside chat, we interviewed Ellie Goulding about climate action; and hosted the COP28 Global Action closing event.
Below, she shares her key takeaways from the global summit and how it will impact both consumers and the fashion industry at large in 2024.
When fashion finally comes to the fore at COP28
The UN’s first COP summit, an annual meeting that brings together global stakeholders to collectively tackle climate change, took place in Berlin in 1995 and has continued every year since. Despite growing awareness of the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry, it has surprisingly been absent from COP discussions.
But for the 2023 edition, the fashion has finally emerged and took its place on many tables. From influential figures like Stella McCartney and Ellen MacArthur to pioneering organizations like Fashion Revolution and Global Fashion Agenda and the most forward-thinking brands, sustainable fashion greats, up-and-comers and material innovators have come together to contribute to the discussions taking place in Dubai.
While the overall outcomes of the summit reflected insufficient and slow action to tackle climate impact, the speeches highlighted the various solutions needed to transition to a more sustainable fashion industry: from circular solutions such as rental and resale, giving fashionistas a way to enjoy innovation without increasing overconsumption, prioritizing durable products and brands taking end-of-life liability (known as the Extended Manufacturer Liability scheme). Wider discussions also focused on the role of policy and investment in driving positive impact.
But for many, the question remains: Why is it so important for the fashion industry to actively participate in these discussions?
Here are five key fashion takeaways from the summit:
1/ The fashion industry is overly dependent on fossil fuels
We all know fossil fuels are a big part of the problem, but how many of us realize how dependent the fashion industry is on fossil fuels? Apart from the large amounts of coal and gas used in the production of our clothes, more than 50 percent of our clothes are made from polyester derived from petroleum. Campaigns like Fossil Fuel Fashion (backed by Iranian American social entrepreneur and activist Sophia Kianni) seek to raise awareness of fashion’s dependence on oil and the importance of scalable alternatives to virgin polyester. This is an important topic to keep track of as it is a key factor in fashion’s role in helping to mitigate climate change and will see the material composition of our clothes change over time.
2/ We must all take action to support biodiversity
A crucial concern emerged at this year’s summit: the fashion industry’s dependence on biodiversity, which is essential for human life and raw materials. Launched at COP28, the ‘Bee The Change’ campaign, spearheaded by ethical clothing brand Pangaia and the Trillion Bees coalition, highlighted the complex connection between clothing, biodiversity and pollinators, highlighting their important role in global ecosystems. The campaign is dedicated to protecting bees and other pollinators, and numerous other businesses are joining the effort. Fashion directly impacts these winged insects through anthropogenic factors such as pesticides, habitat loss, and climate change. We expect nature-inspired collections that connect clothes to their origins to become widespread; In this case, bees are appearing on clothing, restaurants and even airports around the world.
3/ Material innovation, smart design and circular business models are vital
Material innovation and smart design continue to be high on fashion’s priority list in the transition to more sustainable and circular practices. Shoppers will continue to see an increase in the use of recycled fibers, as well as a steady stream of innovative next-generation alternatives to traditional materials. This focus was demonstrated at COP28 through Stella McCartney’s Sustainable Market, which exemplified this shift, showcasing innovative materials such as grape-based leather and wood cellulose sequins. The exhibition, in collaboration with LVMH, introduced transformative technologies used by start-ups to well-established brands, offering plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal skin and fur, and regenerative alternatives to traditional fibres.
The shift towards circular fashion could also redefine citizens’ shopping experience. Rather than aiming to buy only new items, shoppers can embrace a fashion ecosystem where renting and renewing high-end clothing becomes as routine as buying, allowing access to high-end clothing without the commitment of ownership. Luxury brands are also increasingly offering repair and restoration services for their premium collections, encouraging customers to care for their clothes and pass their pieces on to future generations. This shift encourages a more sustainable approach to consumption and invites creative collaboration through fashion exploration and an environmentally conscious approach to healthy reuse.
4/ The fashion industry is key to supporting sustainable culture
Fashion often adopts trend-driven culture without truly understanding or respecting it, missing opportunities for sustainable solutions. Brands must consider citizens’ cultural backgrounds (including socioeconomic, ethical values, and ethnicity) to foster genuine connections and understand what sustainability looks like from different perspectives. By extending concern beyond the operational impact on people, fashion can shape cultural values towards sustainability, setting an example and prioritizing a variety of sustainable practices around the world.
My new cultural sustainability organization, Black Pearl, hosted discussions at the COP28 Entertainment + Culture pavilion, engaging with activists, the African Biodiversity Network, and even Ellie Goulding. These discussions highlighted the power of fashion, music and culture to connect with global audiences on climate change through personalized storytelling, relatable impact and uplifting voices from the Global South.
5/ We all have a role to play in driving positive change
The connection between people and the environment is vital and demand for fashion brands to reflect values has increased. Next year, brands will prioritize citizen engagement, engaging their communities, and soliciting feedback and ideas. Shoppers are now moving from playing the role of passive consumers to active community members, wanting their perspective on what is done and how it is made to be represented.
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