The first surprise is that a half-hour journey by train from Edinburgh to North Berwick is really the distance you need to go to get a taste of the elemental and remote Scotland of windswept beaches, stunning coastal walks and panoramic views. The West Coast and Highlands may be more challenging, but so is the journey to get there. This, by contrast, is an easier but no less fun adventure.
We board a sleeper train from Euston in London, emerging from our slightly crumpled but refurbished couchette onto Edinburgh’s Waverley platform. After dropping off our luggage at the station, we give ourselves a few hours to wander along the Royal Mile, ending up at the National Gallery, where we lose ourselves in a labyrinth of rooms; The death masks in the phrenology collection, including Voltaire’s, stand out. and Keats; every eyelash and nose pore is preserved in sickly fascinating detail. After a delicious vegan breakfast in their cafe, we return to the train at noon.
Once we leave Edinburgh behind, the sky widens, the horizon lengthens and then the sea appears. The second surprise is our holiday home. Looking through a set of iron gates and down a long driveway, you might think that a large Gothic pile would eventually greet you. But the Leuchie Walled Garden is its exact opposite, a mid-century wonder, low, sleek, geometric and sparkling white.
Designed in 1960 by architect James Dunbar-Nasmith for the Dalrymple family (historian and writer William Dalrymple spent his childhood here), it’s the kind of house you’d expect to find hidden away in the Hollywood Hills, but here it is, a modernist gem. I stumbled into a Victorian walled garden in a corner of East Lothian.
Its décor, which was renewed three years ago, has an even more contemporary look; The mix of wood and glass coexists happily with the family’s collection of old books, artwork and antique furniture. The heart of the house is the open-plan living area, which features an Ercol-style dining table and chairs and 18th-century family portraits above floor-to-ceiling glass overlooking the lawn. It’s a worrying mix wherever you look. Crazy guy It meets Scottish barony but somehow the combination works wonderfully.
We’re a large party of three couples with various older children, but we barely touch the sides – there are six bedrooms and bathrooms as well as a second kitchen – so it works well for larger family gatherings and special occasions. Protected by its own microclimate, the high-walled garden overlooking the garden, filled with centuries-old trees and plants, is ideal for young children who cannot venture too far. There is also a tennis court and, on rainy days, billiards, table tennis and darts.
When you can tear yourself away, Leuchie House is a great base for local walks; Regularly voted the best place to live in Scotland, North Berwick is just a mile down the road. With its scenic coastline and two wide sandy bays, it was once a notable Victorian seaside resort (the Biarritz of the north) but fell out of favor over the decades. Its fortunes have changed in recent years, it has been compared to Margate and has a thriving food scene including bakeries, specialty coffee machines and award-winning NB gin and vodka distilleries.
Along the High Street, lined with cafes, bars and shops, there’s Bostock Bakery, known for its legendary loaves and pastries – the almond croissant is mouth-watering – so delicious that Noma chef René Redzepi shared one on Instagram in 2016. This explains the tail. The Steampunk café, where they have been roasting their coffee on-site for over a decade, is also not to be missed. On the morning we visited, the place was packed with locals, teenagers and young families, as well as workers using laptops.
A 20-minute drive along the coast is Dunbar, a seaside town that is currently less explored than its neighbour. However, it is equally charming with its beautiful windswept beaches and stunning sea views, its harbor and its historic main street with many beautiful shops; Sweetie Bank, which sells its award-winning ice cream, is a highlight.
On our final morning, we walk along the coast to Tantallon Castle, a ruined 14th-century castle overlooking endless untouched beaches and bays along the way. It’s worth stopping at the Drift café, 800 meters away, to break your journey short and enjoy the breathtaking views over the Firth of Forth. Another of the many foodie success stories here, husband-and-wife team Stuart and Jo have fallen in love with the place five years later and their café has won awards for its fresh seasonal menu, which ranges from slow-cooked lamb to grilled wild mushrooms. An old fashioned bacon butt.
No visit to North Berwick would be complete without a walk to the top of the Law, a 186 meter high grass-covered jagged volcanic plug jutting out of an otherwise flat landscape. It’s a steep climb that takes about half an hour each, but it’s worth the effort. When we reach the top, the sun rises and the clouds disappear. Exhausted, we lie down on the grass and take in the panoramic views over the Firth of Forth and the Lomond Hills beyond. After a slow descent, you still have time to visit Bostock Bakery and try one of those amazing croissants.
For a group of up to 12 people (six bedrooms and bathrooms), the house costs £81 per person per night for a week, or £1,133 for six couples sharing. leuchiewalledgarden.com for more details. The Caledonian Sleeper train runs from Euston to Edinburgh from 23.45 on weekdays and 23.30 on weekends. A club room with en suite bathroom, breakfast and access to the station lounge costs £235. For more details, sleeper.scot