Sydney’s exorbitant cost of living may have driven many locals into exile, but it has done little to deter eager British tourists who flock to the Emerald City, especially during Australia’s balmy summer months. So who can blame them? It may be one of the most expensive metropolises in the world, but it’s also one of the most beautiful (trust me on this: my “commute” was once a ferry ride across that sparkling harbour).
Although a slice of Sydney summer comes with a hefty price tag, it doesn’t have to be that way. With a little insider knowledge, swapping the British winter for a holiday in the Harbor City doesn’t have to cost a fortune. There’s little that can be done about plane tickets – flying halfway around the world will always set you back a bit – but the same need not be said for costs on the ground. Not all attractions require fees, and you can often get a much better feel for the city by thinking outside the box and avoiding the big attractions.
The beaches are almost too obvious to mention, but what would an article about Sydney be without them? There are more than a hundred of these sandy areas, stretching from the massive 5-kilometer Lady Robinson’s at Rockdale to Turimeta near Manly; It is so small that it disappears when the water rises.
There’s no better way to spend your time in Sydney than enjoying yourself and taking a bath, and as a bonus, your biggest expense will probably be sunscreen. If waves and surfers aren’t your thing, head to one of Sydney’s many ocean pools: most are part of the beach and are free; Others, such as Bondi Icebergs, require an entrance fee; but AU$9-10 (£4-5) is a small price to pay for a day’s access to an iconic (and almost century-old) site.
But Icebergs have another appeal; This is where the tides swell and bubble. A three-course meal in the namesake Dining Room is pricey (AU$155/£80), so treat yourself to a cocktail and then head downstairs to the Bistro, which has the same incredible views and a more affordable menu.
This is also the starting point for the 6km clifftop walk to Coogee; It’s worth the drive just for the views and people-watching, but it becomes an even more awe-inspiring site each spring with the introduction of the free outdoor exhibition Sculpture by the Sea. .
Naturally, a stay in Sydney requires time in and around the water-surrounded Harbour; the “hanger” of a bridge; and the glittering, shell-like curves of the Opera House. Although these are undeniably the city’s supermodels, exploring them on a tight budget won’t send you into a day of mere sightseeing.
A night at the opera? General tickets start from AU$79/£41, but there are special offers that give access to selected performances (plus dinner and a drink at a harborside restaurant) for AU$99/£52. The adjacent Botanical Gardens are also free for the public to visit, and if you wander near “The Con” (Sydney Conservatory of Music), you’ll likely encounter the sounds of future music stars as well.
A harbor cruise from nearby Circular Quay will set you back around AU$65/£34, but hopping on a green and yellow ferry provides exactly the same sights for comparative pennies (AU$3.20/£1.60). While on board, be sure to direct your gaze smugly at the tiny climbing figures dotting the arch of the Harbor Bridge: they’ve paid more than AU$150/£78 for the privilege.
Wave to them from the ferry, then disembark and walk the pedestrian section of the Bridge for free at your leisure. Then go to the Pylon Lookout; yes, you’ll have to climb more than 200 steps to reach the top, but for just AU$24.95 you’ll be rewarded with 360° views of the harbor and access to the on-site museum. £13.
On what note: yes, the views from Sydney Tower (the city’s highest vantage point, dotting the skyline with its distinctive yellow, space-age structure) are pretty spectacular. But for an adult admission fee (AU$35/£18), you can have two glasses of Yarra Valley Prosecco at Blu Bar on Shangri-La’s 36th floor, where harbor views are magical (and free).
Many of Sydney’s museums and galleries are also free, including the harborside Museum of Contemporary Art and the Art Gallery of New South Wales, where the permanent collection displays First Nations art as well as early colonial works.
But a holiday in Sydney isn’t just about ticking off the attractions: you need to eat too. Eating out in a city so famous for its cuisine is serious business; But a budget approach doesn’t mean missing opportunities. Try cheap, delicious dumplings at Chinese Noodle House; Legendary Italian at Bill and Toni’s; rice paper rolls at VN Streetfoods; or authentic Indian at Chatkazz in Harris Park, then use the money you save for a one-off expense at a famous restaurant like Quay or Bennelong.
Of course, not all of these places are central, but it would be a mistake to visit Sydney and stay only within the confines of the harbour: the pulse of this city beats strong even far from its famous heart. Shoppers can browse outlet stores in Homebush or browse designer drop-offs at suburban charity shops; while walkers should head for the bush and coastal paths that wind seductively northwards through Ku-ring-gai National Park and the Royal National Park to the south.
By no means miss a visit to the delightful suburb of Manly, with its busy Corso strip, but don’t make this your only trip to the Northern Beaches. Continue along the 36km Northern Beaches Coast Walk towards Palm Beach and explore less-visited coastal suburbs such as North Curl Curl and Narrabeen. It’s here, against a backdrop of public artwork, uncrowded sands and local beachside cafés, that Sydney’s bold, beautiful heart shines brightest. And you can’t really put a price on that.
Fundamentals
British Airways and Etihad fly from London to Sydney from £1,010 and £1,222 return respectively.
Moxy has doubles from AU$176/£91 per night; Double stays at W Sydney are available from AU$759/£394 per night, both including breakfast.
Visit Destination NSW for more information.