I have been writing about France for 20 years; Here are my favorite places to visit

By | March 24, 2024

<span>Statue of Notre Dame de France overlooking Le Puy-en-Velay in Massif Central.</span><span>Photo: CW Images/Alamy</span>” src=”https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/.NravQpm96DMzhPlilA02g–/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTk2MDtoPTU3Ng–/https://media.zenfs.com/en/theguardian_763/ee2acc3cd02b838a72d4b47 73a3f4c51″ data-src =”https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/.NravQpm96DMzhPlilA02g–/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTk2MDtoPTU3Ng–/https://media.zenfs.com/en/theguardian_763/ee2acc3cd02b838a72d4b4773a 3f4c51″/></div>
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<p><figcaption class=Statue of Notre Dame de France overlooking Le Puy-en-Velay in the Massif Central.Photo: CW Images/Alamy

landscapes

When you look at the salt pans of Guérande near Nantes, cycle through the lavender fields of Drôme in the southeast, and bask in the splendor of Cirque de Gavarnie in the Pyrenees, you have to wonder how France got so lucky. with different views. The volcanic landscape of the Massif Central has captured my heart lately. The chain of extinct volcanoes extends southwards from Le Puy de Dôme, the highest point near Clermont-Ferrand (there is a railway to the summit).

South of the rugged peaks of Cantal, the town of Chaudes-Aigues has two hot springs (the hottest in Europe at 65°C and 82°C) gushing from taps in the town square. Two hours east, the remarkable town of Le Puy-en-Velay is the starting point of the medieval pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The chapel of Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe is located on a basalt needle, while its other peaks include the cathedral and the statue of Notre Dame de France.

beaches

It’s not just the landscapes that are changing across the country; The coasts of France have so many features that each region has a name. I sat on the Côte d’Opale on the north coast and admired the belle époque villas; Further west, on Brittany’s Côte de Granit Rose, I swam in bays lined with pink rocks carved into extraordinary shapes by wind and sea. In the southwest, I basked in the sun and dipped my toes in the silky yellow sand as the Atlantic washed ashore at Capbreton on the Côte d’Argent; and I’ll never forget an impromptu paddle from a small beach hidden among oyster farmers’ huts at L’Herbe in Cap Ferret, on the other side of Arcachon Bay.

Islands

The coast of France is full of islands, each with a different identity. I fell in love with Île d’Yeu, on the Atlantic coast, reminiscent of Greece with its whitewashed houses and colorful shutters; And Île de Porquerolles off the Côte d’Azur saw us cycling past pine-covered beaches. vineyards.

But what really lingers in the memory is Brittany’s Ushant (Île d’Ouessant in French) on the Iroise Sea on the far west coast. On a hot summer day, we cycled over the moorland, past lighthouses and green-shuttered cottages. When we reached Pointe de Pern, the westernmost point of metropolitan France, I couldn’t believe the roar of the Atlantic waves crashing against the brown rocks.

Activities

Those looking for natural peaks are not deprived of opportunities L’Hexagon. Now that our kids are a little older, paddling on the beach won’t do the trick, so we rented sand yachts and sped towards the wide beach at Barbâtre on Île de Noirmoutier, off the coast near Nantes. We swung and climbed through the trees in many forests of France. billfamily tree Treetop adventures.

Of course, the activity in which the French excel bikeand that’s what Île de Ré on the west coast was created for. We pedaled along smooth bike paths between whitewashed villages adorned with hollyhocks, our legs strengthened by salted butter caramels.

Galleries

Paris is art lovers’ first stop in France, and there’s little that compares to the experience of coming face to face with Van Gogh’s self-portrait at the Musée d’Orsay, reflecting his distinctive and colorful brushstrokes. His impact as a penniless artist on the art world would never be known until 135 years later.

Beyond Paris, I also loved diving into lesser-known galleries that offered wonderful moments. Le Havre’s bright Musée d’art moderne André Malraux has one of France’s largest collections of impressionist art, including works by Renoir, Pissarro, Sisley, Degas and Courbet. A must-visit during this year’s Normandy impressionist festival.

museums

From the stunningly fascinating Musée de la Fraise (strawberry) in Plougastel, Brittany, to the hugely complex models at the Musée Cinema et Miniature in Lyon, it’s always surprising how the French manage to make museums of such a wide range of subjects. There are also big-budget ones, like the recently renovated Musée National de la Marine in Paris’s Trocadéro; these blend historic model ships and paintings with modern innovations, such as a giant CGI wave, to bring maritime history to life.

However, smaller museums can be just as interesting. Housed in a beautiful manor house in the north-eastern walled town of Langres, the House of Enlightenment tells the story of the town’s most famous son, the philosopher, art critic and writer Denis Diderot, who wrote many of the works dated 1751. Encyclopedia.

Architectural

France’s many castles and cathedrals attract the most attention, but I was also fascinated by the more modern architecture. On a visit to Le Corbusier’s concrete Saint-Pierre church in Firminy in the Loire Valley, I caught a group of music students practicing four-part harmony in the extraordinary acoustics of the sloping walls as sunlight shined through dozens of small windows. like a constellation of stars.

In Le Havre, there is the similarly impressive church of St Joseph, rising above Lego-like apartment blocks. Inside, I sat reverently beneath the kaleidoscopic octagonal tower and gazed at its 12,000 panels of colored glass.

Cities

I love Lyon with its gastronomy and Marseille with its countless flavors. neighborhoods and the characters, Bordeaux with its splendor and Nice with its light. However, lesser-known cities also provide pleasure. Nantes is a creative powerhouse with its own magic, encapsulated by Machines de Nantes, including a giant robotic elephant that wanders around an island in the Loire, alongside a three-story Jules-Verne-inspired carousel (his creations can now be found in Toulouse and Calais). There are street art installations and a collection of strange art installations along the river leading towards Saint-Nazaire.

To wander

There is pleasure in making the journey a part of the holiday, especially for those who want to avoid airport stress and keep their carbon footprint low. I always love standing on the deck when the ferry comes into Saint Malo: the view of the majestic walled town is beautiful, especially from the sea.

Driving in France is a pleasure (certainly compared to the much busier England): the empty roads lined with plane trees are justifiably famous. The A49 from Grenoble is a great route as it passes by the Vercors mountains and walnut groves; The Millau viaduct on the A75 is always exciting to cross.

Trains are fast, efficient and comfortable; I love the route from Marseille to Nice along the Côte d’Azur – TGV OuiGo trains depart from Marseille’s Saint-Charles station and reach Nice Ville in under three hours, a view of the Mediterranean glistening among terracotta roofs and cypress pines presents its view.

Where to stay

Whatever you have in mind regarding accommodation, France has it. A bedroom in a castle – Château de Saint Paterne is my favorite. A beautiful gîte – Le Mas and Le Mazet in the Dordogne outshined the others. Acute Chambres d’hôtes, Where the owners treat you like long lost friends – Sawday’s places never disappoint me. And when it comes to offbeat destinations, the French are in a class of their own. There are amazing tree houses; At La Chouette Cabane in Mayenne, we hauled our delicious dinner up to the deck on a pulley and were accompanied by a chorus of frogs as night fell.

In lesser-known Lorraine, the rustic cabin with its own sauna next to Lake Pierre-Percée had a rather remote feel. And then there was the cow-shaped eco-lodge: Deep in Burgundy, a region justly proud of its beef and cheese, the Vache Ecolodge sleeps 12 people and is decorated entirely in a bovine theme. Pretty crazy but great fun.

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