I drive through the backstreets of Wareham’s main street and park next to a stately, moonlit church. Descending a stone-flagged, stone-walled alley towards a heavy wooden door, being greeted with the air of long-serving servants by solemnly uniformed staff… Arriving at the Priory feels a bit like stepping back in time: it’s delicious. Even the 20-something general manager, the owner’s son, has a pencil mustache that gives him the cheerful look of a World War II ace pilot.
Despite its location in the town, The Priory has the look and feel of a country house hotel, thanks to its four acres of gardens and an idyllic riverside setting overlooking reed beds, open moorland and the Purbeck Hills beyond (if you look carefully you’ll see Corfe Castle). Its history as a religious house begins in the seventh century, and as a hotel owned by the third generation of its family in the mid-1970s, it has a tangible depth, integrity and continuity of service that is rarely encountered. Meticulously manicured, thoroughly designed, spa-centered luxury country house hotels – attractive as they may be – are today’s norm. If you’re a fan of Nare, Plumber Manor and Gravetye Manor, all privately owned and operated, you’ll definitely love The Priory.
About half the order’s staff, in some cases over 20, have been working there for years. It’s unusual to see older bar staff, waiters and waitresses in expensive hotels these days, and they instantly bring a sense of dignified reassurance, a haven. turbulent outside world. “I’ve known some of them since I was a little kid,” says Katie, who, along with her brother Ben (the man with the moustache), is slowly taking over the reins from their father Jeremy Merchant. “They are family.”
With one glaring exception, the Priory feels resolutely traditional, especially in its public rooms, which are adorned with paintings and furniture collected by Jeremy Merchant and his father before him. Do Ben and Katie, sales and marketing, want to change things? They say absolutely no. Sensible improvements (hopefully turning the pond into a wild swimming pool, a few treatment rooms and an outdoor sauna), nothing more.
“We love it just the way it is,” Katie says. “This place was created by our grandparents and then our parents, and we love the history, quaintness and antique patina of the place and the way the guests seem so pleased here. “We are proud of what our father and grandfather achieved and we love this place.” Is this what is missing in many hotels that were once private and are now part of groups and brands: love? You really feel it here.
Of course, the Order isn’t for everyone, and it isn’t perfect; I think it is not like that anywhere. For starters, there’s a lot of monk painting and the guest room furniture might need updating, but the cozy bar looks like it fits the bill. There are four rather dark dramatic suites in the old boathouse, with terraces and balconies overlooking the river, each with a jacuzzi (not my thing – I can’t be trusted), but I preferred the lighter, nicer and cheaper rooms. The house features GP & J Baker wallpaper, a variety of beautiful beds (including one with a deep copper bath) and beautiful views from the comfy window seats.
The sect’s restaurant used to be underground; it is now – a dazzling exception – a purpose-built glass and timber barn extension overlooking the gardens and river, whose arrival has brought the Priory intact into the 21st century.
Another sign of a hotel that always hums rather than shakes is the presence of head chef Stephan Guinebault, who has been here since 2006. With his childhood in the Loire Valley and his classical training in French cuisine, he attaches great importance to provenance and propriety. she prepares her ingredients and produces classic country-house fare without gimmicks: full plates, the best produce without any fireworks, served with rich, deep sauces.
The Chateaubriand, from a local flock of Devon Reds, melted in the mouth; The Grand Marnier and rhubarb souffle was as light as air; Cooked dishes such as boiled eggs and avocado on homemade sourdough bread for breakfast were equally enjoyable.
We walked around Wareham Walls before breakfast. After breakfast we borrowed a canoe (paddleboards are also available) and pottered along the River Frome. It was a heavenly 24 hours.
Fundamentals
A double room at The Priory (01929 551666; theprioryhotel.co.uk) starts from £240 including breakfast.