‘This whole project started as an experiment,’ says Pawel Sidorski, who changed his life in the European hotel industry to pursue his vision of sustainable luxury and opened Cyprus Yurts near Paphos in western Cyprus in 2013. creating an off-grid lifestyle and a place where people can connect with nature without sacrificing comfort,” he says.
Pawel’s three handcrafted Mongolian yurts and wooden huts, tucked away on 2.5 acres on a hill overlooking the Stavros tis Psokas valley, offer just that. We stayed in the spacious Qadan (which means “cliff” in Mongolian) on the edge of the resort; hammocks, tables and chairs were ready to watch the sunset or stargaze. Inside there is an extremely comfortable wrought iron double bed, rugs, stove, coffee making set, Bluetooth speaker and Wi-Fi; You name the creature comforts, and the attentive Pawel has thought of it.
The other two yurts and newly built cabins in Koliba are family-friendly. Spaced several meters apart to ensure privacy, these rooms all have outdoor showers and compostable toilets that use a mixture of sawdust and dust. bokashi To dispose of waste. There is also a traditional toilet for “those who want to try being closer to nature, but do not want to compromise on their comfort in order to save water and keep the groundwater clean,” says Pawel!
Reached by a long gravel track, the ecological retreat of Pawel is the last inhabited property before entering the forested Troodos mountains 2 km east. It feels blissfully remote, but the small village of Simou is nearby and the small port of Polis Chrysochou and the fishing village of Latchi are just a 20-minute drive away. From here, you can take a glass-bottom diving boat tour of the famous Blue Lagoon, or go for a swim on the beach before eating a great fish appetizer at Y&P Fish Tavern, part of the Latchi Hotel.
Pawel lives in the welcoming Straw House, which is also home to four cats and 10-year-old pointer cross rescue dog Shuki. “Where does its name come from? śukravāsaraḥ” means Friday in Sanskrit,” says Pawel, “the day our paths crossed at the local dog pound.” Pawel will provide guests with a GPS for self-guided walks or bike rides, but most prefer Shuki as a guide. Yoga and yoga in the pavilion below the house “He’s known for keeping guests company,” says Pawel, who hosts pilates sessions and offers advice on local rock climbing, water sports and horseback riding. For the latter, George’s Ranch offers horseback riding for all levels, but experienced riders will want to take in the small, scenic ride on the Akamas Peninsula. Stopping at Agios Georgios, a port, guests can embark on a 90-minute sunset cruise over the cliffs and sandy beaches of the natural caves of the Sea Caves National Park, which is home to valleys, hiking trails and magnificent bays, including the Blue Lagoon.
Breakfast in Pawel’s kitchen at Straw House includes halloumi, scrambled eggs, olives and endless coffee. He or she will also cook a vegetarian or vegan dinner for guests (€17 or €10 per person for under 12s). Main courses may include baked zucchini with rosemary and garlic served with cinnamon rice, warm bread, salad and marinated peppers, or ajapsandali, a Georgian eggplant stew served with bulgur wheat and local sheep yoghurt.
Guests help themselves to local wine or beer, nicely chilled thanks to electricity generated by solar panels and a wind turbine. Only 2-4% of energy use is produced by a backup diesel generator, and in 2021 Pawel installed a solar-powered well pump. “We are completely independent when it comes to water for our home, our guests and our extensive irrigation system,” he says proudly.
One day I joined Pawel early in the morning on a mountain bike (four are available for rent), completing part of a 15km loop passing through the abandoned Turkish villages of Istinjo, Melandra, Zacharia and Sarama, a legacy of the Turkish occupation. island. The division of Cyprus in 1974 and the displacement of the inhabitants are brought to life in full force. The landscape does not take sides and the beauty is exhilarating. We pass the Skarfos Bridge, made of stone from the Middle Ages, over the Evretou river. It is an old Venetian bridge with poppies growing on its banks, and in the near distance you can see the Skarfos water mill. Home to two abandoned villages, the Evretou reservoir is a haven for birdwatchers and a good place for fishing and foraging. You can see this on the track as we head towards Pawel’s dorms.
“I’ve seen wild sheep on these trails,” Pawel tells me, referring to an endangered wild sheep famous for its sickle-shaped horns and endemic only to the Troodos mountains. Unfortunately, we don’t see any when we visit Omodos, a village in northwestern Troodos with a pleasant main square full of taverns and cafés. While it’s a good base for walks, unimpressed kids might prefer to visit the mouflon reserve at Troodos forest station near Stavros, where 30 of these shy, endangered wonders can be seen up close.
For adults, Byzantine churches all over the Troodos region offer different wonders. The highlight for me was Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis, or Church of St. Nicholas on the Roof, an 11th-century Byzantine monastery. This Unesco World Heritage site is located on the Karkotis river at the foot of the Troodos, 5 km from the narrow cobblestone village of Kakopetria, which is not to be missed.
This church stands out not only for its wooden roof and domed square cross structure, but also for its magnificent frescoes dating from the 11th to the 17th centuries that cover every wall. Of particular note is a rare depiction of a breastfeeding Madonna, whose magnet has been on my refrigerator since our visit. In the meantime, I carry in my mind the promise of returning to the hope and warm welcome offered by Pawel, who continues to build and share the dream of sustainable tourism. “It’s very rewarding,” he tells me. “I appreciate every visitor.”
Dormitories in Cyprus, Paphos: yurtsincyprus.com. Dorms and cabins B&B from €90 to €130 (depending on branches) Two adults share, children under 12 stay free). To go horseback riding at George’s Ranch See georgesranchcyprus.com. For glass bottom boat cruises from Latchi, check out latchiboatcruises.com.