It’s been a turbulent few days at the capital’s 40th London Fashion Week. Want to know what to wear next winter? Victoria Moss and Joe Bromley have a bad side.
Training is over, loafers have arrived
With a few exceptions (notably Labrum’s Adidas Samba collaboration), loafers have replaced sneakers as the dominant footwear of this fashion week. Nowhere was this more surprising than at streetwear aficionado Saul Nash’s show – but his “no hood/no hat/no sneakers” dress code followed ’90s London garage club scene rules. “The question was: How do you take your gym clothes and dress them to go in? “That was the starting point for this collection,” he said. Answer: Sebago school shoes worn with ombre, neon green tracksuit bottoms; They look just as good (better?) as they do with chinos. J.B.
your old vest
No, your eyes are not deceiving you, yes, this is indeed the primary school classic pointelle vest and panties on the catwalk. JW Anderson’s sweet tour through the hallmarks of British-inspired nostalgia has seen him take everything from ’70s M&S underwear to grandpa slippers and giant tweed coats and remix them for a new generation. Not to mention the Miss Merton wigs, which Anderson describes as “the idea of celebrating age and making it beautiful at the same time.” VM
A Greek dress (drama)
During Erdem’s last trip to the British Museum, it was seen that he moved his front row seat to the Duveen Gallery. There, Pheidias’ much-discussed tribute to Maria Callas’s 1953 performance of Medea in front of the Parthenon Statues (Elgin Marbles) was revealed. Somewhat clumsily, she fueled the fire of the Greek culture minister, who was appalled by her insensitivity. International relations aside, she created some pretty delicious chiton-like flowing dresses, contributing to the evolving trend that Roksanda and 16Arlington have also embraced. VM
trapper hat
Are you prone to having a bad hair day? Here’s a treat. Giant trapper-style faux fur hats have popped up in a surprising number of places. Both Emilia Wickstead and JW Anderson threw these at the model’s head; as does Thornton Bregazzi’s Preen in the husband-wife’s excellent comeback show. We love it when paired with dramatic feather skirts and patchwork sweatshirts. VM
Saltburn effect
The film flopped at the Baftas on Sunday night, but there’s no doubt it killed the country house style that was sweeping the catwalks. Nowhere was this more true than at Dunhill, the menswear brand founded in 1893, where its historic codes have been reconsidered by new creative director Simon Holloway. In the suitably green and crimson rooms of the National Portrait Gallery’s Duveen Wing, formidable portraits stared frighteningly elegant men. Most rahs consisted of high-waisted corduroy worn with striped rugby shirts, white socks and embroidered velvet slippers; There were silk ties, tan driving gloves and scarves made for stately outfits. As for women, Rosamund Pike’s character Elsbeth was felt in the aristo-eccentricity of many designers; mostly Molly Goddard and in her sparkling pink tulle, Pike made a surprise front row appearance here. J.B.
red hot dress
Breath was held when this magnificent silk fabric, with which Roksanda introduced her magnificent collection, which took its super elegance from Le Corbusier, appeared at Tate Britain. Quite frankly, the flowing, woven tassel radiates perfection. Also look out for the FitFlop (yes, a new collab) pairing. Comfort and charm? She’s not the only one backing a major Ferrari red dress moment, either — 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldi whipped up a Phoebe Philo-Celine-esque draped number, while everyone from Huishan Zhang to Chet Lo and David Koma have rocked one. Your next party season look awaits. VM
Buy a cowboy shirt
You may have noticed that the cowboy thing was bubbling away for a while. Everyone at fashion shows does a version in the trunk, Pharrell Williams went all Wild West at his latest Louis Vuitton show. Of course, Beyoncé also went to the country. If this sounds sartorially foreign to you, Molly Goddard’s sweet cowboy shirts may turn your eyes away. She was taking cues from “things like miniature cowgirl outfits and Oilily and weird patchwork children’s clothing,” she said. Her approach is very, very seductive with her beautiful rose embroidery and mother-of-pearl buttons. VM
Perky in tinsel skirt
Cocktail skirts are big news again – especially when worn in a distinctive way – that’s not head-to-toe OTT, but a pop of glam on your lower half. 16Arlington’s floor-sweeping silver glitter number is spot on. So much rustling! Note the style: the demure mix of black knits and coats gives a small hint of the corporate basic trend that’s accelerating everywhere. VM
Just add (fake) fur
Faux fur is back in style on the catwalks, as real vintage furs take trend-conscious show-goers by storm. In a welcome return from bubblegum eye-catching hues – a uniform faux fur has been tucked into the high street – they all come in natural shades. At Simone Rocha, beaver brown faux opera coats were finished with crystal appliques and played with the idea of Victoriana teddy bears. At Roksanda, it was all pale, cream-coloured, faux, sleeveless jackets with leather bindings and tied belts; Erdem, on the other hand, was knitting alpaca cocoon coats with looped stitching in black and ivory. It’s better for the mafia wife to come in. J.B.
Your new 9-5
In more unlikely TikTok trends, it seems Gen Z is now very interested in what their parents wear to work at Midnight. The new nine-to-five wardrobe has all the swivel chair staples – pinstripes, white shirts, tight reading glasses. In the Turkish-British designer’s collection Dilara Fındıkoğlu, Barbie actress Hari Nef leaned herself against church columns in a banker’s shirt and a jacket rolled up into a skirt; Corset vests with transparent panels and Latex gloves, with the upper part completely exposing the breasts. Emilia Wickstead reflected the 50/50 approach; Sweaters and shirts on top, light-coloured miniskirts decorated with flowers on the bottom. But it was British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker who added a more playful touch to her fashion; They were worn with gray vests, loose-fitting striped shirts, cargo trousers and inflated bowler hats. Pour yourself a glass of ambition, etc. J.B.
Wear pop socks
Among the style tricks we won’t endorse, the 15-denier black pop sock is proving to have some pretty lasting power. Showgoers were rocking it all over town, paired with knee skirts and, yes, loafers. Styled this season by the tasteful Harry Lambert (the man behind Emma Corrin and Harry Styles’ looks), Emilia Wickstead has a decidedly chilled look. The Mad Men vibe is brought up to date with these off-kilter touches. Don’t forget the V-neck sweater worn with an open-collared shirt. It’s time to reveal everything again. VM