North Korea reopens to tourists but there’s a problem

By | February 9, 2024

Tourists in Pyongyang in front of portraits of North Korean leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il in 2019 – Ed Jones/AFP

North Korea has reopened its doors to tourists for the first time in four years, with a Russian group arriving in the secretive country today for a four-day trip.

Tourists were the first to visit the country since the beginning of the epidemic. In early 2020, North Korea implemented strict border controls to prevent the spread of Covid-19 and has remained closed to foreign visitors since then.

The four-day, three-night itinerary will stop at Pyongyang and the Masikryong ski resort, according to a Telegram post published by the government of Primorsky Krai, which is located in Russia’s far east, bordering North Korea and includes Vladivostok.

The post describes North Korea as “one of the most interesting and mysterious countries in the world” and promises visitors the chance to “immerse yourself in the country’s culture.” Boctok, the tour operator running the trip, sold places on the tour for US$750 (£593) per person, spending one night in a four-star hotel and two nights in a five-star hotel.

It’s unclear whether this trip will mean a return to tourism for other international travelers. Simon Cockerell, managing director of Beijing-based Koryo Tours, told Reuters: “It’s a good sign, but I’m hesitant to say this will lead to a wider opening due to the specific circumstances of this single trip.

“But considering that no tourists have come to North Korea in over four years, any tourism trip could be seen as a positive step forward.”

View of North Korea from across the demilitarized zone (DMZ) in the armistice village of Panmunjom, South KoreaView of North Korea from across the demilitarized zone (DMZ) in the armistice village of Panmunjom, South Korea

View of North Korea from across the demilitarized zone (DMZ) in the truce village of Panmunjom, South Korea – Bloomberg/Getty

North Korea’s border remains closed to British tourists and the FCDO advises against all but essential travel to the country. “Although daily life in the capital Pyongyang appears calm, the security situation can change rapidly without any advance warning of possible actions by authorities,” the letter reads.

Regent Holidays is among the tour operators that have organized trips to North Korea in recent years. Carl Meadows, Regent’s product and travel expert, has visited more than 30 times. He said no one knows when the borders will open to British tourists, but he hopes they will open soon.

“This is the million-dollar question,” he added. “There has been a lot of speculation about this for years, as there has been regular speculation about the imminent fall of the government, but the truth is that no one really knows.

“With careful consideration and meeting certain criteria, we hope to be among the first to restart holidays to North Korea. Regent has always had a pioneering spirit and we were the first British tour operator to send customers to North Korea in 1985.”

Tourists boarding an Air Koryo North Korea flight for a domestic flight in Ryanggang Province in 2010Tourists boarding an Air Koryo North Korea flight for a domestic flight in Ryanggang Province in 2010

Tourists boarding an Air Koryo North Korea flight for a domestic flight in Ryanggang Province in 2010 – Eric Lafforgue/Corbis News

The United Nations has condemned North Korea’s human rights record, while Human Rights Watch and Amnesty International have highlighted the country’s lack of freedom of expression and prison camps for those convicted of political crimes. Between 80,000 and 200,000 prisoners were reportedly subjected to forced labor, physical abuse, and possible executions.

These reports have not deterred other specialist tour operators, including Regent and Cox & Kings, from operating tours in the country in recent years. “We focus on the appeal of the destination and its people and believe tourism is one of the best ways to expand the minds of both locals and visitors and distribute wealth across different levels of society,” says Meadows.

Western tourists visited the Three Pillars Monument in Pyongyang in 2018.  Before the pandemic, about 5,000 non-Chinese tourists alone visited North Korea each year.Western tourists visited the Three Pillars Monument in Pyongyang in 2018.  Before the pandemic, about 5,000 non-Chinese tourists alone visited North Korea each year.

Western tourists visited the Three Pillars Monument in Pyongyang in 2018. Before the pandemic, about 5,000 non-Chinese tourists alone visited North Korea each year – Ed Jones/AFP via Getty

In 2015, Kim Jong-un announced plans to expand the country’s tourism offerings to two million visitors annually. However, this never happened. Before the pandemic, only around 5,000 foreign visitors a year (excluding Chinese tourists) were allowed to enter North Korea. That’s around half the number of people queuing for the London Eye every day.

Some visitors have suggested that tour groups going to North Korea are shown only a carefully produced version of the country. Telegraph Travel‘s Minty Clinch said “real mingling was severely limited” on her visit. Carl Meadows confirmed that events were being followed closely.

Tourists watch young Korean musicians playing gayageum at the Children's Palace in Pyongyang in 2018Tourists watch young Korean musicians playing gayageum at the Children's Palace in Pyongyang in 2018

Tourists watch young Korean musicians playing gayageum at the Children’s Palace in Pyongyang in 2018 – Ed Jones/AFP via Getty

“All visits to North Korea are strictly controlled,” he said. “This usually means that each group (whether one person or 20 people) is assigned two guides and a driver. Itineraries are all pre-arranged and pre-paid and have only a little flexibility. Tours are often designed to see the ‘highlights’, but the same can be said for any tour anywhere in the world.

“The longer we stay in the country, the more we can see the ‘real’ North Korea. “A three-night tour will give visitors a very different overall impression than a more in-depth 18-night tour, which will cover every province and perhaps, sometimes unintentionally, reveal a more unique side of the country.”

Meadows said he could fill an entire book with strange encounters from North Korea: “Being caught up in citywide evacuation drills, flying to remote locations in military helicopters, being dragged into traditional dances on national television. No two days are the same.

“Its culture is deep, its history is rich, and its citizens are some of the most hospitable and good-natured people in the world. But of course, unless you go and experience it for yourself, it’s unlikely you’ll believe me.”

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