Black tie events may not come around very often, but when they do they can be sartorially challenging. For all their specific rules, these formal dress codes are confusing and scary in equal measure. What was originally conceived as a way to keep guests from turning up to an event under- or over-dressed has become a complex social minefield.
While not the most formal dress code in existence (that title belongs to white tie), black tie still evokes a level of glamor and elegance that goes beyond standard evening wear. While a tuxedo jacket, designer denim, and heels will satisfy many after-dark style scenarios, black tie is a tougher brief. British etiquette guide Debrett’s still says that “for most people this is the most formal dress code they will ever encounter”. The advice for female guests is short: “Women should wear full-length evening dresses or prom dresses with or without long sleeves. Long gloves can be worn with sleeveless dresses.”
To define what black tie really wants from your suit, we asked stylist Holly White for advice. Known for dressing a host of rising Hollywood stars, from House of the Dragon’s Milly Alcock to Bridgerton’s Charithra Chandran and How To Have Sex star Mia Bruce, the artist is well-versed in navigating the confusing style dilemmas that come with formal occasions. it still looks stylish, contemporary and most importantly comfortable. Should you wear black? How short is too short? What styles are appropriate for the occasion but still modern? The following breaks the modern black tie rules.
What’s the easiest way to manage a black tie dress code?
“I tend to use dress codes to gauge the overall feel and energy of the event or party, so try not to be too intimidated by them; they are there to help. Ultimately, when it comes to my clients, I always try to achieve something that will make them feel their best and most confident, and this should be a priority for everyone. Black tie isn’t always as traditional as it used to be; It has become much more creative and people are choosing their looks in new and interesting ways that still feel elevated. This also means guests tend to look for statement clothing that they’re more likely to wear again, which is important from an environmental perspective. The level of formality varies by invitation, so it’s always worth checking with your host if you’re unsure. “Everyone has their own interpretation of what black tie means.”
How do you navigate black tie events in a modern way?
“Look for contemporary necklines – low-cut necklines, dropped shoulders, high necklines (think Saint Laurent, Alaia and Alexander McQueen) and focus on details; Add a clear opera glove or a modern hair accessory like a headband or crystal hair clip.”
Do you have to wear black? Is color important in black tie?
“Black isn’t the only option, but if that’s your sartorial safe zone, go for it. I recommend opting for block colors rather than something too flashy, as this allows you to have more fun with the silhouette and accessories while respecting the dress code.
What length of dress is acceptable? Does it have to be floor length?
“Floor-length length is preferred, but mid-length also works. “Anything shorter starts to have a more ‘cocktail’ feel and feels too casual for a black tie event.”
Are there any silhouettes that work best? Is it acceptable to wear tight shapes?
“Fit is everything, whether it’s a perfect fit or oversized. Never wear anything that you have to squeeze into. No matter how tight or loose your dress is, make sure it fits your body measurements; “This is the easiest way to boost your self-confidence and look elegant.”
How can you add red carpet glam to your look? Are there any style tips that instantly make an outfit stand out?
“Accessories and confidence. My job as a stylist is essentially to build confidence and create a look that will stand the test of time on the red carpet. Hair, makeup and painted nails have more impact than you think; If you can present yourself with a professional beauty look, it will pay off. A quick blow dry will make a huge difference in how you feel.
What shoes will I wear? Are high heels important?
“I don’t think there are any strict rules about this. Kitten or higher heels often make the look more formal, but it’s also important to be able to walk easily and confidently, so choose a heel height that feels comfortable in heels if they don’t feel natural to you.”
What should I avoid? What does a black-tie misstep mean?
“Avoid fabrics that feel comfortable, such as cotton or wool. Instead, opt for luxury materials like crepe, silk or chiffon.”
Which style of bag do you recommend?
“A clutch will always enhance the look – it’s a casual wear classic – but I also recommend considering a bag with a small handle or delicate chain strap that you can hold or sling comfortably over your shoulder.”
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