MILAN — Black or white and no color in between.
Party dresses showed during Milan Fashion Week that designers’ inspiration ranged from cinema to music to ancient Greece and Robert Mapplethorpe’s photography. But the color scheme remained consistent.
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Here’s a rundown of the city’s fall 2024 offerings.
Luca Lin To behave. N.1 He was in a romantic mood, using cinema and the early days of silent cinema as inspiration. “Cinemas in Italy are closing or disappearing, which is sad,” the designer said. “For me, cinema is a place where I find peace and dream.”
She wrapped much of this collection in tulle, from rough-edged denim to jackets with draping or corset details. Tulle gave clothes a regal look, blurring rough-cut or tailored edges and evoking images of the black-and-white screen. The cream white jacket with a tulle skirt was one of the standout pieces of this collection.
She was also inspired by silent film women and used their corsets on denim tops and tailored jackets. She also made sheer and blush-coloured corsets to use with special outfits. These corset styles added a touch of sex and drama to the collection.
dont ask Des Phemmes‘ Salvo Rizza will give up his love for sparkle, embroidery and a little cool sass. For fall, her candy-colored take on party attire veered towards the ladylike, courtesy of midcentury inspiration centered on the fascinating interior design clash at Casa Mollino, the Turin home and museum of famed architect Carlo Mollino.
For bold girls, a low-waisted midi skirt with floral appliqués was paired with a lacy bra and peek-a-boo underwear, while a maxi sequined, optical, statement-striped halter dress looked easier to pull off, as did a cow-print midi skirt and the same. Lurex rib-knit turtleneck with incredibly high side slit. These flashy and distinctive pieces combine with extended casual wear; a business boon as the designer expands the brand’s reach.
Rizza, now backed by Italian manufacturing company Olmar and Mirta SpA, which bought an undisclosed minority stake last year, has managed to build a sizeable business in the US, which now accounts for 70 percent of sales, and aims to strengthen its footprint in Europe.
CHBDistributed through the same MDC showroom as Des Phemmes, Christian Boaro continued to paint the topsy-turvy bourgeois look, staying true to the sensual ideas that first brought him to the spotlight with his first solo fashion project.
A few dramatic dresses were flanked by equally naughty dresses (it’s easier to imagine the 30-somethings taking center stage), including a sheer lace number with a bow in four different patterns and a fitted bustier dress with a duchess-style balloon midi skirt. night club).
Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe photographs and the evocative images of Grace Jones in the ’80s, Boaro used black vinyl in flowing strapless minidresses and skirts, as well as bustier dresses with zippers or buttons that ran vertically at the front. A range of faux furs, made in collaboration with supplier Tissavel, exuded an old-school hedonistic vibe, as did a faux astrakhan belted trench coat and fiery red and black feathered Mongolian short jackets.
It shares a similar color palette with Boaro, consisting of black, white and also red, Alessandro Lawlesswho will soon unveil her inaugural collection as creative director of Rochas, tried to hark back to when she first introduced the eponymous brand with latex, form-fitting dresses and edgy edges.
The graphic undercurrent was echoed in the structures and color combinations, as in the striking white turtleneck wrap dress with a black illusion print of a life-size naked female body on the back, referencing the artworks of painter Kazimir Malevic. Next to her was an open-weave, mesh-like cami dress dotted with tiny sequins; A sturdy latex spaghetti dress and an ’80s-nodding long blazer worn as a minidress with a corset belt to cinch the waist were easier pieces worthy of cocktail receptions. and after parties.
Francesco Murano is another natural talent who can easily move up the ranks. Beyoncé was about to graduate from the Istituto Europeo di Design in Milan when she requested some of his creations for her “Spirit” music video, and she later wore a variation of her pieces to the official Grammys 2020 pre-party. Her refined aesthetic and expertise in all things draped, a reflection of her love of couture and Greek culture, is further developed in her new collection, which also introduces leather.
Murano worked to achieve the lightest versions of both the jersey (its own fabric) and the leather; This resulted in a seamless combination of the two as well as new transparencies. An even more seductive undercurrent was infused into her sensual creations through asymmetries, craters and low-cut necklines in her traditionally dusty palette of greys, whites and blush pinks.
Penance She’s planning a runway comeback in September, but has stuck to her presentation format, relying on evening wear to create an evening program worthy of the red carpet after-party.
Sequined mini dresses with strong shoulders and bustier tops and dresses that nod to the ’80s are mixed with velvet blazers embellished with Lurex threads, all done in a night-appropriate color palette, thrown over giant stripe and checkerboard pattern blouses that appeal to more conservative partygoers.
Gianluca Capannolo Offering a trove of gold-flecked black tweed belted coats and capes, as well as chunky gold chain jewellery, she puts a new spin on her feminine, tailored pieces. She even made a mini dress from those gold chains that would send an electric shock into any room.
The designer also featured a rich faux fur offering, including a Mongolian coat in a rich burgundy hue, silver-grey fox fur, and feathered ostrich-trimmed dresses. Some of these eye-catching looks were often transformable, like a pair of trousers that turned into a long skirt thanks to strategically placed zippers.
ATXV Founder Antonio Tarantini continued his studies on the human body, this time reaching the “alive, strong, sexy and free” feeling that crumpled sketch paper gave him. Building his plan on the use of twisted, burned and flowing jersey, Tarantini transformed the fabric into a sensual, genderless collection with 90s breezes and subtle eroticism.
Built on simple silhouettes like the body-con, long-sleeve or spaghetti dress, micro dresses were draped to reveal a shoulder here and a belly there. Crinkled viscose has been similarly crafted in an unusual way, revealing revealing structures, including a short nightgown at the bust that knots at the hips to provide a high slit, revealing a nude-looking tulle backing.
Federica Tosi The designer had much to congratulate himself on, as he recently entered into a strategic partnership with Italian manufacturing company Industria 62 to increase his eponymous brand’s Made in Italy production and accelerate its international expansion.
In terms of fall fashion, the designer continued to rely on quality fabrications, designing her casual pieces in wool, cashmere, silk and soft leather. Her penchant for clean lines and overall commitment to wearability is also reflected in her eveningwear offering, through essential long dresses covered in sequins for a simple yet effective effect. Tosi added some fun and movement with a worn sequin suit and hot pants that would come with an invitation to the dance floor.
john richmond He’s clearly a music lover, dedicating his fall collection to the genres he says “saved his life,” from disco to rock ‘n’ roll to hip hop. When translating this iconography, the cast didn’t feel very realistic; the wardrobe offering was heavy on tailoring and evening wear.
On the second front, a pearlescent, one-shoulder minidress features revealing cutouts at the hips and torso, while a nude-looking column dress is printed with tattoo-like drawings and complemented by a crystal choker. As well as carefully cut suits for men and women, tailoring is also reflected in party wear options; for example, a gold suit with a brocade print, a slub ivory suit with a shimmering collar worn with wide trousers or short shorts and a bow-tied shirt for it.
Curiel‘s in-house team of designers delved into the brand’s rich archives and showcased a collection brimming with old-world glamor. There were ’50s velvet and satin dresses reminiscent of the young Princess Margaret and glittering confections for the evening.
This season, the brand also tapped multidisciplinary artist Matteo Thiela to collaborate with the brand. Thiela wowed guests as she created a tight black evening gown made from miles of textured yarn and a spinning mannequin.
The thread is wrapped around the mannequin, and Thiela can create a variety of styles without using a needle and thread. She works with lame, viscose and cotton threads, adds velvet ribbons, feathered pieces and seals the seams with resin.
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