The coastal hamlet of Abereiddy (Abereddi in Welsh) isn’t as sunny or dazzling as Acapulco, but the two places have a common claim to fame: both are famous cliff diving spots. The Welsh version is the Blue Lagoon at the northern end of Abereiddy Bay; It’s a 30-meter drop into deep green waters (not blue as the name suggests) that has hosted the Red Bull Cliff Diving championships several times.
The “Lagoon” is actually an old slate quarry, formed by blasting the seaside wall after it was closed in 1910. Although there was no one jumping from the top during my visit, there were tourists wearing diving suits wandering around the lower floors. from the lagoon and surrounding cliffs. Pembrokeshire is the home of coasteering, which was “invented” here almost 40 years ago.
I walk along Abereiddy’s black sand beach, famous in geological circles for its fossil graptolites: tiny, fragile-looking marine invertebrates buried in Ordovician shale 450 meters ago. I come across a pair etched in pebbles, but I leave them to be discovered by someone else or buried by the sea for a few more million years.
I set off from the coast towards my destination, Porthgain. Past the Blue Lagoon, it’s a short but steep climb to the top of the cliff, 40 meters above the turbulent Irish Sea, and I follow the coastal path between the cliff edge and green fields towards Traeth Llyfn. There is a steep metal staircase leading down the cliffs to this beautiful golden sand bay: it was built when natural steps eroded into the soft, rocky cliffs became too dangerous, according to authorities.
When I do this walk in August, I keep an eye out for gray seals and their newborn pups bobbing in the surf. Sometimes they drag themselves onto beaches; In this case, it is advisable to keep a good distance and keep disturbances to a minimum as they can easily get stressed.
Continuing along the coastal path, I pass over the bays of Porth Egr, Porth Dwfn and Porth Ffynnon, all accessible only to canoeists and keen beachgoers, before coming across more remnants of the coast’s industrial heritage in the form of abandoned buildings and bones. a tram decorating the tops of the cliffs. It is all that remains of the Victorian quarrying and brickmaking industry that flourished until the early 20th century.
Slate quarried in the Blue Lagoon was transported by tram to the harbor at Porthgain (Gaelic for “chisel harbour”). Later, bricks and road stone aggregate were also shipped from there. In 1900, 30 ships were registered at Porthgain and there were eight warehouses as well as large brick hoppers for storing stone. Some are still standing, and I pass them as I descend the steep stairs towards Porthgain harbour.
Still a working harbour, Porthgain has a solid appeal with fishermen heading out in search of lobster, crab and mackerel. On their return they can hang out at one of the best pubs in Pembrokeshire. The warm and welcoming Sloop is located low and low just 100 meters from the harbour. The “warm” part is especially welcome in winter when walking along the coastal path or returning from a few hours out in the choppy Irish Sea.
It’s not a very long walk from Abereiddy, but I use this exercise as an excuse to get on the Sloop before continuing on my way. In the summer I have lunch on the terrace (a mature Welsh cheddar and chutney sandwich with a pint of the local Whitesands pale ale).
Heading south, I follow a dirt track that forks to the left of the road and leads to a footpath, through fields through a series of gates, including two old wrought-iron kissing gates, and I stop to chat with a chatty farmer who, yes, the weather (last summer “very was dry”; now “too wet”). At the bright whitewashed Felindre Cottages I take a sharp right and pass through more fields.
Cattle often graze here. They can be avoided by taking a short detour along the road from Porthgain towards Llanrhian (traffic is light and generally moving slowly) and taking the route where the track turns right into Ynys Barry, but this means missing out on some of the beautiful views across the valley. towards the harbour.
There’s a fresh sea breeze on my face as I head towards Ynys Barry’s holiday homes before heading back to Abereiddy Bay and reach a path across open farmland that offers beautiful views of the coast and countryside, little changed since the quarrying days. .
On a hot day, I’ll cool off by diving into the Blue Lagoon – but not from a height of 30 meters…
Google map of the route
Beginning Abereiddy Beach car park (£4 April-October, free the rest of the year)
Distance 4½ miles
Time 1½–2 hours
total rise 144 meters
Difficulty easy-medium
Bar
No matter what time of year you visit, there’s a warm buzz at the Sloop, and the southeast-facing terrace is especially pleasant on summer evenings.
The original pub dates back to 1743, but an extension in 1997 did not change the pub’s character; the walls are decorated with old maritime, fishing and quarrying equipment, as well as photographs of the harbor in its heyday.
There is regular live music from local bands during the summer months. I once popped in for a beer and saw Cerys Matthews singing a few acoustic songs (in her youth she lived a few miles away in the village of Trefin).
The menu includes vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes and, unsurprisingly, specialties almost always include fresh fish and, in season, local lobster, crab and mackerel. (Breakfast 09.30-11.00, lunch 15.00-15.00 and dinner 17.00-21.00). It’s a good idea to make a reservation in advance. Those walking their dogs should note that pets are not allowed in the bar during the summer months.
Where to stay
Nearby the Sloop is a self-catering cottage (from £98 per night, three nights minimum) that sleeps four people in one double bed and one twin bed. Half a mile away, at Ynys Barry, accommodation can accommodate between two and nine self-catering cottages (from £115 a night, three-night minimum).
• sloop.co.uk