I’ve been using my favorite shoes for almost 10 years. They are black loafers with a small block heel, made in Italy from very soft leather. They are so beautifully made that every time I have them freshened up by a cobbler they look almost like new. I recently bought shoes for the same money, but nothing compares in terms of durability and comfort.
Unfortunately, due to the increase in mass production and synthetic materials, it can be difficult to find shoes of this quality unless you know what you are looking for. Here, experts explain how to spot well-made shoes.
high quality leather
Jenny Velakoulis, owner of Evans Leather Repair in Melbourne’s Royal Arcade, says the most important thing to look for in quality shoes is genuine leather. “The leather is beautiful because there is a hole in your boots that can be patched inside and out. The leather is then molded to where we want it,” says Velakoulis. “So it’s really nice to work with, it’s a beautiful thing, and it will last forever if properly cared for.”
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“If you’re after high-quality leather with all its durability and anthropometric properties, then you want full-grain leather,” says shoemaker and craftsman Theo Hassett. Full-grain leather has a natural texture on its surface because it has not been sanded or polished smooth. He says to be careful with leathers that have been coated with plastic or have had a corrective finish applied to make the leather look extremely smooth and shiny, as these are techniques used to mask splits or poor quality leathers.
Plastic free
Similarly, be wary of shoes made of plastic; It is very difficult to repair. “If there is a stain on it or if it breaks, that’s the end of it. It is very disposable,” says Velakoulis.
Sometimes the amount of plastic in shoes can be deceiving. It may be labeled as vegan leather or, on ballet flats, called mesh. Any material labeled “synthetic” or “resin” is actually plastic. Similarly, Velakoulis says to be wary of stiletto or kitten heels that are molded from plastic and so lightweight that they remain hollow, because they break easily and are nearly impossible to replace when the heel breaks.
stitched construction
Another sign of a well-made shoe is the use of stitching to hold the sole in place. This is especially important, says Hassett: “If you want the shoes to last more than a few years, because the glue in the seam will eventually break down.”
Look for the seams, especially around the insole of the shoe, because any adhesive used on the inside will break down from the sweat of your feet and the friction under your heel, says Velakoulis.
Outsole and tread
If you’ll be doing a lot of walking in your shoes, Hassett recommends looking for thick rubber commando or Dainite rubber soles. “They are some of the most durable,” he says.
For dress shoes with smooth leather soles, it is important to have a cobbler attach a thin layer or rubber (often called topy) to the sole and heel, replacing this rubber as needed.
“The traditional method is to completely replace the leather sole, which involves removing and reattaching the heel and re-sewing a new sole over it,” says Hassett. “But honestly, very few places have the equipment, skills or inclination to do this anymore.”
Instead, he says, look for soles with structural integrity, such as a thin midsole sewn to something more durable and an outsole glued to it, because the customer can then replace the sole as needed. “I know that sounds like a glued-on base, but I think it’s very different when you have all the structure above to maintain integrity,” he says.
Another thing to consider is how the heels are made. A well-made brogue or boot should have a stacked leather heel. It’s made by a cobbler cutting pieces of leather and stacking them on top of each other with glue. This means the heel is easy to repair as the layers can be dismantled and rebuilt as needed.
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Links
When it comes to buckles, zippers and laces, Velakoulis says, “if the hardware looks weak, it will break.”
“If it’s soft and malleable and doesn’t look strong, it will break. And the more buckles there are, the better the chance of that happening.”
According to Hassett, zippers often can’t withstand the wear and tear caused by standing on your feet. “I think the zipper is a risky addition because you expect shoes to last 10 years or more,” he says. This means that the most durable shoes will be those that lace up or can be taken on and off.