Retailers will have a hard time saying goodbye to Dries Van Noten, who told WWD of his plans to step down from his company’s creative direction later this year. They said they would miss the color he brought to both men’s and women’s fashion, the lightness of touch and the gardener’s love for flowers. Here European and US buyers pay tribute to him.
Alix Morabito, Galeries Lafayette women’s clothing general purchasing and sales manager:
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This is the saddest news; he is one of my favorite designers. With Dries, it was never about the show, it was the pieces and the attitude of the clothes. You put it on, put your hand in your pocket and walk a different path. It’s also the only collection I think I might purchase in color. Light blue is not just that; There’s some green there too. I also love his approach to the uniform; It does this in a colorful way. But it’s not just color. There are two dialogues he maintains with women: He’s black, he’s sober, he can do minimalist things, and he can also do fireworks. And can do them together or separately.
Laura Larbalestier, fashion director, Harvey Nichols Group:
Dries’ appointment in Antwerp is a coveted trip among buyers. When you arrive at the reception you will always be greeted with a beautiful bouquet of flowers from Dries’ famous garden. When you go to the fifth floor and get off the elevator, you step into his universe. There’s a real sense of excitement and wonder at the collection you’re about to discover. Of course, there are things about Dries’ outfits that are instantly recognizable; unexpected color combinations, embroideries and fabrics; But these are not the only references that should be part of the brand’s continuation. Part of the brand’s magic is that it can reference everything from David Bowie to the Qing Dynasty to collaborations with Christian Lacroix. It’s in the brand’s DNA to take all these unexpected references and make them different and wearable.
In many ways, the timing of this announcement and Dries’ successor suits his unexpected idea and works on his own terms.
Over the years, Dries has built an extremely loyal customer base who collect items from different collections and feel personally connected to the brand, rather than buying seasonal trends. For years, acquiring Dries has been one of the highlights of my career and one of my greatest teachers. The company values the people who continue to work there, and they are well equipped to develop and sustain this rich and complex legacy.
Tracy Margolies, Saks sales manager:
We will be forever grateful to Dries for the creative vision and beauty he has shared with all of us over the last 38 years. Dries’ unique sense of color and use of prints, patterns and textures made each collection so special that it brought joy and inspiration to fashion and created a lasting legacy. We are honored to share Dries’ vision with Saks customers and look forward to continuing the story in the next chapter of the legendary house. We wish Dries the best in his next adventure. We will miss him, but we are so grateful for the impact he had on our industry.
Michael Kliger, CEO of Mytheresa:
Dries has created a unique brand with very strong codes. And even more impressive, he has built a company with a unique ethos and culture. He leaves a wonderful legacy and will be missed.
Richard Johnson, Mytheresa’s commercial director:
Dries has always walked his own path, consistently building a narrative that blends different cultural influences from one season to the next. He is an increasingly rare example of a designer who takes the time to hone his craft on his own terms, without following the whims of fashion. Her personal background in fabric and manufacturing has always been at the heart of her best work, combining the finest materials, bold prints and textures with her unique sense of tailoring.
We have many fond memories following his leadership in the showroom in Antwerp during countless buying sessions, his fashion show appearances from the Brutalist buildings in the Peripherique to the splendor of the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, and of course the wonderful event we organized together at home. Axel Vervoordt. There are so many memories, he will be missed!
Simon Longland, Harrods’ purchasing manager:
Dries Van Noten has achieved something truly extraordinary, possibly unique. His work has received universal praise from retailers, press and customers. He has always been known for his ability to challenge boundaries; has always remained true to its unique vision, remaining current and timeless. The artist has an incredible ability to offer a new perspective and approach to his designs and is known for his mastery of color, fabric and technique. His work will undoubtedly continue to inspire both current and future designers for years to come.
Selfridges executive buying director Judd Crane said:
Dries Van Noten guided us and showed us what is possible as a designer creating a brand that many people love. While I am saddened at the thought of Mr. Van Noten’s personal creative genius not coming through in future collections of the brand, the most important emotion for me is absolute appreciation and gratitude for everything he has created over the years.
Beth Buccini, founder/owner, Kirna Zabête:
I remember attending my first Dries Van Noten fashion show in Paris when I was a young fashion editor. It was a transformative experience. I’ve never seen a designer with such a sense of color. On our visit to the showroom, the vibrant racks of jumbled clothing were astounding. I almost cried with joy. I bought a pair of fuchsia pants from that collection that I still own and wear today! As a retailer that now sells Dries, I can confirm that he has a following. His different perspective and magic touch give his clothes this feeling. This is an almost impossible feat to achieve over such a long period of time. These are big shoes to fill.
Lana Todorovich, sales manager, Neiman Marcus:
Dries Van Noten’s extraordinary talent has a unique perspective that will be greatly missed. His artistic expression and innovative approach to design have made him a standout in the industry for decades. As a long-standing brand partner, it has a loyal following among our customers who gravitate towards its exceptional craftsmanship and exceptional print and color expressions.
Launch Gallery: Belgian Designer Drys Van Noten Runway Collections from the Archives
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