This is exactly the desire for travelers to “discover” truly untouched destinations; desire. But in 2019, I set out to explore a group of 88 islands and islets in the Atlantic that few people have ever heard of: the Bissagos archipelago.
New to cruise itineraries, this place has proven to be one of the most exciting places I’ve been to; a pre-transitional paradise that is rare today. But then Covid hit, routes were suspended and Bissagos returned to darkness. Five years later, the sun is shining on the islands once again as French cruise line Ponant continues itineraries to this remote destination next year; One of the few ways to visit luxury ships in comfort and safety.
A UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1996, this 5,000-square-mile area is protected from tourism by its inaccessibility, lack of infrastructure and transportation, and the perilous political situation that plagues Guinea-Bissau, one of the poorest countries in the world. It gained independence from Portugal in the 1970s. The islands, also spelled Bijagós (meaning “perfect people”), have just 23 settlements – and not only do you need permission from the islanders to go ashore, but some islands considered sacred are completely off-limits.
Accompanied by dolphins, we sailed at night, circumnavigating the archipelago to avoid the rocks and sand banks in the famous shallows.ThisThe navigation maps of the century (the only maps in existence) serve us well. In the morning the scouts ventured forward to test the condition of the terrain and to facilitate our arrival with the islanders.
However, as Eve will confirm, heaven is not without its traps. “You must always stick to the trails in the jungle,” our expedition leader emphasized at every briefing. “There are mambas in the trees and horned vipers camouflaged in the grass. And depending on the tides you may have to go ashore for half an hour; “Watch out for stingrays.” Bull sharks, which make swimming on sandy beaches very attractive, are not recommended except in designated areas.
We hiked across acacia-covered savannah, followed footprints, and waded through leech-infested waters to see the famous saltwater hippos. They live in mangrove swamps during the dry season; We found them munching on water lilies in a crocodile-infested lake.
Despite the rich biodiversity of Bissagos, the fascination of these islands lies in their human population of 30,000. Theirs is a strictly hierarchical society based on age-based class groups, where everyone must progress through a series of grueling initiation rites.
We walked through sun-drenched forests of thick ferns, palm, mango, cashew and kapok trees to reach villages of mud and straw huts; passed through slash-and-burn clearings where crops were grown in rotation; Sailed the Zodiac along magnificent, ever-narrowing mangrove channels – birdwatching heaven – where children played and dived from dug-out canoes.
We followed the drumbeat on the island of Carache and found Nathalie, queen and priestess of her community of 100 people. Wearing her colorful headscarf and toga made of dried palm leaves, she was waiting for us like a statuesque statue; He was sitting on a fallen tree trunk with two old women; A little boy was sifting bright orange palm nuts at their feet. There were rice fields everywhere. Nathalie led us to where a group of young people were gathered, covered in leaves and crowned with shell anklets. They started dancing and it was as if the paddy fields came to life.
Although there were differences between the islands in both customs and the local Bidyogo language, dance was a common feature of our greeting in every village and an important element of reception. Rhythmic, energetic, elemental performances of young men and women wearing zoomorphic headdresses.
Bolama, the island closest to the mainland and the capital of Portuguese Guinea from the 1870s to the 1940s, offered a very different experience. “Brancos! Brancos!” [“White people!”] shouted a little boy, as he came ashore and passed among the colorful wooden boats that were the islanders’ only means of reaching the mainland, and the fishermen who stood on their big toes, mending their nets the old-fashioned way. First of all, Bolama has beautiful stone mansions, now dilapidated, roofless, melancholy ruins, the legacy of rival British and Portuguese colonists. Here I saw the first signs of trade: strong “cashew wine” in blue barrels bound for the mainland; and an empty shop except for a single toilet standing like a throne in the middle of the room. “They don’t sell,” laughed our guide Laurent, “nobody uses them!”
The governor was waiting in front of his house, another beautiful ruin with a balcony. He thanked us for coming; “The first cruise ship,” he said. Speeches were made and then dancing once more. It was perhaps my favorite sight: young boys covered in mud and armed with spears, like fearsome warriors, empty Coca-Cola cans instead of gourds slung incongruously around their waists.
As I wandered around town, I was surprised to find both a Catholic and a Protestant church. “Some people convert to Christianity to escape the difficulties of initiation,” Laurent said. “But they all remain animist at heart.”
Lost in time, Bolama proved to be a fascinating bridge between two worlds. And it was the closest I got to “civilization” as we know it all week.
The next eight-night “Bissagos Islands Adventure” is on board Le Lyrial, departing from Dakar on April 7, 2025. Prices start from €5,490 per person, excluding flights. www.ponant.com