Claiming to be “the snowiest village in the world” is a tall order. But Damüls, an unknown Austrian gem located deep in the Bregenzerwald mountain range, has something going for it.
With a base elevation of 4,700 ft and an average of more than 30 ft of snow per season, this small, perfectly formed resort in Austria’s westernmost state of Vorarlberg boasts guaranteed white in winter – all at an affordable price.
The claim may be as much marketing hyperbole as geological fact, but when I arrived in mid-December, there was ample protection from head to toe. The season was progressing well with typical Austrian efficiency; Not only were all the tracks open and pristine, but there was also a magical coating of virgin powder off the track. Moreover, I did not hear a single English voice during the entire trip. I couldn’t believe my luck.
Undisturbed skiing
With around 70 miles of pistes, the ski area at Damüls is significantly smaller than the 300 miles offered by its more famous and glamorous neighbour, St Anton, an hour’s drive away, but its lift system (most of which is covered and heated) is every bit as good. good as in leading resorts. Even on busier weekends, lift queues were never longer than a few minutes, and unlike the internationally famous St Anton, most skiers I met on the slopes were local or from southern Germany or Switzerland.
Damüls is divided into three distinct well-connected districts: Faschina, Mellau and Damüls. Each has several wide blue runs; It’s ideal for intermediate or adventurous beginner skiers who can relax knowing there’s an easy route down at the top of each lift, and there are more challenging red runs. The small number of specialist terrain (a handful of black pistes) was more than made up for by off-piste areas overlooking every conceivable angle.
On uncrowded slopes, I was still skiing on clean terrain a few days after my arrival and enjoying the relaxed and extremely safe atmosphere with fewer people on the slopes.
Comfort over conga lines
Damüls covers a mountain road that winds between two peaks on either side of the valley. Both sides are filled with hotels and self-catering apartments, but there is no visible lively village centre; This is something that draws thousands to the streets of St Anton and Lech every winter. Although there’s a supermarket, tourist office and the ubiquitous Intersport rental shop, as well as a ski-in/ski-out church and the FIS Ski museum, Damüls isn’t the place for you if you’re looking for a lively nightlife.
But this doesn’t have to be the end of the world; Certainly not once you reach a certain age, and the comforts of a cozy hotel are as seductive as dancing on the tables at MooserWirt 20 years ago. My base at the half-board Hotel Hohes Licht, an elegant and supremely comfortable family-run spa hotel, was a prime example of the concept of balanced luxury-to-value ratio that Austrian resorts have long perfected. Frankly, while the hotel has everything I need, it’s debatable whether I would have ventured out even if there had been a central village to explore.
value for money
Skiing in the Alps will never be cheap, but I was pleasantly surprised by how affordable Damüls was compared to neighboring, better-known resorts. A six-day adult ticket in Damüls costs around €100 (£85) cheaper than in St Anton, and a four-hour private lesson costs €330 (£282) – whereas in St Anton it’ll set you back just over €400 It will cost. (£342). Using the “Goulash Soup Index”, this Austrian lunch staple costs no more than 7 euros (£6) at Damüls – the same dish at the Arlberg’s biggest name usually costs 11 euros (£9.40).
This equates to a significant price difference, especially for families, and that’s before you factor in accommodation costs. A six-night half-board stay in a double room costs just over €1,000 (£850) for two people, excluding travel. A similar package in St Anton would have set me back up to 50 per cent more.
Affordable ski resorts are generally better value for a reason, and often it’s because they’re less likely to guarantee snow or the infrastructure to handle a week’s skiing.
Whether or not you believe the claim of being the snowiest village in the world (unofficial title in 2006), Damüls has proven to be a less risky snow option in these climate-chaotic times. This and its undeniable economy make it a European ski hero worth knowing.
Five top tips for exploring Damüls
1. Tobogganing. Take the Uga cable car, sip Dutch courage at Gasthof Elsenalpe, and hit the road. Your author continues to be the family’s champion. €8.10 (£6.90) per day.
2. Hiking and snowshoeing. The two-and-a-half-hour circular WinterWanderWege route allows you to enjoy the snow-covered silence in pine forests with wonderful views and mountain huts along the way. Join a guided tour for €12 (£10.20) per person.
3. Lunch at Sonnenalm. Discover the best goulash on the mountain and the large sunny terrace or, if the weather is bad, plenty Gemütlichkeit (Austrian comfort) inside.
4. The best ski slope. My favorite was the long backcountry ski route 8, which starts from the top of the Ragaz cable car. Enjoy a high-level pass with plenty of off-piste options followed by many different courses through the trees.
5. After skiing. Enjoy a civilized dinner at Gasthof Elsenalpe followed by a mini party at Heike’s Schirmbar (but don’t expect MooserWirt).
Fundamentals
get there
British Airways, SWISS and easyJet have direct flights from the UK to Zurich and/or Innsbruck; both are approximately 105 miles from Damüls and prices start from £100. Train transfers from Zurich to Bregenz cost around £20 one way if booked in advance and can be booked via sbb.ch.
Where to stay
Hotel Hohes Licht is a four-star ski-in/ski-out hotel with pool and spa facilities. From 30 March, a seven-night, half-board stay for two people costs €2,492 (£2,128) in total, excluding travel.
Simon was a guest of the Bregenzerwald Tourist Board and Hotel Hohes Licht.