We lie on the terrace of Lapis Turris, a medieval watchtower in the Sibillini mountains, and take turns naming movies that remind us of the extraordinary landscape that surrounds us. Game of Thrones? Skull Island from King Kong? Tolkien’s Rivendell? It’s hard to choose; This stunning, empty wilderness is Italy’s answer to all three.
In the mountainous southwest of Le Marche, Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini is full of densely forested hills, craggy peaks and lush valleys. It is much wilder and less populated than neighboring Tuscany and Umbria. You can go here for days without seeing anyone, let alone a tourist. It’s also a haven for hikers and serious mountain bikers; With 10 peaks above 2,000 meters. The capital of Le Marche is Ancona; It’s four hours from Rome by train.
When you tire of the hills, the beautiful coastal towns on the Adriatic are perfect for a day trip, about a 90-minute drive from the coast. If all this isn’t tempting enough, there’s a cost, or relative lack thereof. It’s one of the few places where you find yourself questioning the bill out of fear that you’ve been undercharged. An Aperol spritz in any of the local bars costs around 4 euros, and pizzas probably don’t cost more than 6 euros.
With its cream-coloured pastel houses overlooking a deep blue sea, it’s easy to see why Sirolo is known as the ‘pearl of the Adriatic’.
Our nearest town is Amandola, with ancient winding streets leading to the old main square, Piazza Risorgimento. Filled with bars and cafes, this area is an ideal stop for an aperitivo and is well stocked with two supermarkets nearby. We are spoiled for choice in the village of Montefortino, another picturesque local gem. Located on a neighboring hill, the structure looks as if it was carved from marble. It glows pink at sunset.
We visit on the second day and it does not disappoint. A steep climb through the village takes us to a magnificent panorama on the hill where the Sibillini peaks spread out before us. It’s eerily empty, as we’re the only ones enjoying the view, other than the swallows. We retrace our steps to the outskirts of the village and stop at Blu Bar Caffè, a reassuringly lively and busy pizzeria. Locals line up for delicious appetizers – stUzzichini – bianco, bruschetta and crostini pizza slices. We order plate after plate for about €5 each, beer, spritz and affogato to finish.
The real appeal of this area is the contrasts and surprises. The mountain views may be spectacular, but there’s also a sandy coastline to explore. We are heading towards Sirolo, a cute seaside town that is popular with Italian holidaymakers. It is easy to understand why it is called the “pearl of the Adriatic” with its cream-coloured pastel houses, turquoise shutters and square overlooking the deep blue sea.
The small town slopes gently towards the beach, which we reach by passing through a strip of pine forest. It’s a steep descent and at the end is Spiagga di San Michele, a stunning expanse of fine white pebbles and clear, crystalline waters. We float on our backs on the sea and look out at the town beyond, framed by white cliffs and green hills.
After swimming and sunbathing, only one thing comes to our mind; No trip to the Italian coast is complete without a plate of wine. spaghetti alle vongole. Away from the beach, we come across Ristorante Vittoria – La Terrazza sul Mare, a gorgeous place with a shaded terrace overlooking the ocean. It’s one of those memorable meals you hope to eat once on any given holiday, but can never guarantee. We are lucky: sea freshness frittura squid, Gamberi, appetizer mare and vongole enhanced with salty chips, cheap prosecco and a stunning slice of the Adriatic. It’s as pleasant an atmosphere as any you’ll find on the Amalfi coast, but at a fraction of the price.
We slowly ascend the hill towards Sirolo, exploring the labyrinthine narrow streets filled with cafes and tempting boutiques, but stopping only to look around the Chiesa San Nicola di Bari, an 18th-century church with a dazzling painted ceiling and ornate glass chandeliers. Outside, it’s worth queuing for an ice cream at Gelateria Artigianale, and our only regret as we walk back is that we don’t have time to stop at Il Grillo, a lovely bar with tables overlooking the main street.
Back home at Lapis Turris, we settle in for another remote outdoor evening. Additionally, thanks to its location 800 meters above sea level, it is very cool and mosquito-free even when temperatures rise.
Away from the beach, we enjoy one of those unforgettable meals you only hope to eat once on any given holiday but can never guarantee.
If you can bear to tear yourself away from the swimming pool and jacuzzi, which is a feat in itself, there is a small gate in the garden that leads to walking trails. Easy-to-follow signs take you across the river through rolling green hills and a gentle ascent to a peak; The view towards the watchtower is worth the climb.
Dating back to the 1080s, Lapis Turris is the oldest fortification in Le Marche and was built to defend against the threat of regular Umbrian attack. It must have been quite successful; One of the bedrooms downstairs is said to have been where prisoners were kept. Ten centuries later, it was lovingly converted into two apartments by its owner; This makes it a good option for two families to share.
Medieval and intact, everything here is carved from ancient rocks: tables and armchairs, terraces and even a mini amphitheater illuminated at night; For special occasions you can book a small orchestra to play. Or preferably enjoy the nightly symphony of cicadas and water flowing from the forest below.
Lapis Turris offers accommodation for up to nine people in two apartments from £3,993 for seven nights (£443 per person) through Oliver’s Travels. Visit oliverstravels.com for more details.