With an endless stream of new, ‘must-have’ products entering the skincare industry, it can be difficult to decipher what really works. Since it’s mostly a case of trial and error, most of us will try various products and ingredients in the hopes that we’ll see results over time. While this is sometimes the case, the screening process can be costly, time-consuming, and sometimes risky.
So, how about a different way to shop for skin care that takes the guesswork out of it? Enter custom made. With recent traction, more and more consumers are purchasing brands that offer personalized products formulated with your skin’s specific needs and goals in mind. “The public is starting to realize that one size does not fit all and that a personalized approach to skincare can deliver superior results,” says Klira founder and consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne.
The concept makes sense. Instead of wasting money on unnecessary products, these forward-thinking brands will recommend custom formulations to meet your specific needs (following an online skin assessment). “Different skin types require different ingredients and formulations,” confirms Dr Craythorne. “Like shoes or clothing, creams need to ‘fit the skin,’ and in the case of some styles or creams, formulations suit some skin types better than others.”
How do personalized skin care brands work?
Many brands use a digital tool to perform an online skin assessment to understand what your skin needs. Using surveys and/or images, the tool will be able to collect information not only about your skin, but also about your lifestyle to create personalized recommendations.
At Klira, the process begins with an in-depth survey covering medical history, lifestyle, and skin type. “The reason there are so many problems is because we actually change the clinic appointment,” explains Dr Craythorne. Customers then upload photos of their face before ‘Skin Size’ is calculated – “this is our secret weapon to help you understand the epigenetics and genetics of your skin.” A four-step routine is then designed that includes a bespoke Klira product.
Specialty skin care brands Dermatica and Skin + Me work similarly. Following short online surveys and image uploads, expert dermatology teams will develop a plan. As with Klira, custom-made products will contain prescription-strength ingredients (such as tretinoin) that are not available over the counter. “There are a variety of strengths and ingredients used depending on the individual customer’s concerns,” explains Dr Ash Sharma, MD, Dermatica.
All of these brands operate on a subscription model; This means you’ll pay a monthly fee (there are also quarterly or annual payment options) for regular refills of your custom formula. Dermatologist and chief medical officer at Skin + Me, Dr. “Formulation and ingredient strengths will change each month to evolve with skin tolerance,” says Jason Thomson. “Clients can also meet with an expert for free to discuss their progress at any time.”
What are the benefits of personalized skin care?
And Begin’s (sister brand to Skin + Me) consultant dermatologist Dr. “Personalized skin care gives people access to the right combinations of active ingredients that target specific skin concerns, in concentrations that will work best for their skin,” says Malvina Cunningham. Rather than using off-the-shelf generic products, personalized skin care allows your specific skin concerns to be targeted. “If there are certain ingredients that your skin really needs, we put them in, and if there are ingredients that your skin would be better off without (like some preservatives or cosmetics), we leave them out,” adds Dr Craythorne.
Custom made also means it’s fresh. At Klira and Dermatica, products are blended in London laboratories and delivered directly to the customer’s door within 48 hours, ensuring the formulation is at its best with less spoilage. “People want fresh produce with minimal added preservatives,” says Dr Craythorne. “They want ingredients with the highest potency and that haven’t been stored on the shelf for months or years.”
In addition to freshness, many personalized skin services offer access to a dermatologist for check-in. “There are thousands of people on the waiting list for a dermatology appointment across the country,” Dr Sharma points out. “More than 8,000 people are currently waiting for an appointment in Scotland alone, and while those who can afford it are going private, prescription costs prevent the vast majority of people in the UK from accessing these services.” These brands have democratized the ability to receive treatment from dermatologists at affordable prices by offering online consultations.
Are there risks to personalized skin care?
Self London consultant dermatologist Dr. “While I understand that not everyone can see a dermatologist, the current trend in virtual consultations and prescriptions has unfortunately led to an alarming increase in misdiagnoses,” says Anjali Mahto. “It’s not uncommon for me to see four to six patients a week diagnosed with acne by an online prescription service but actually have rosacea or vice versa.”
The purpose of regular check-ups by a dermatologist is to minimize these risks. “Our dermatology team will not treat any skin condition they are not confident in diagnosing from the photographs provided,” says Dr Thomson. “While there are always potential risks when applying treatments to the skin, the benefit of customization means that irritating ingredients such as retinoids and azelaic acid can be added at lower strengths and gradually increased to reduce this risk.”
“The risks of personalized skin care are much lower than the ‘DIY’ model,” says Dr Craythorne. In his practice, Dr. Craythorne often encounters patients who have made their skin worse by using the wrong products and/or incompatible ingredients. According to him, the main risk with personalized skin care is that the customer will think they are seeing a dermatologist when in fact they are seeing a ‘skincare expert’ – which is not the same thing.
“I think it’s important that you see a real dermatologist or a team led by a dermatologist, because that’s how skin nuances and diagnoses are identified and the best plans are made,” she says.
The best personalized skin care brands in the industry…
one. dermatica
Recognizing the need for dermatology-recommended skin care, wellness entrepreneur Dwayne D’Souza dreamed up Dermatica. Dermatica, the UK’s first online prescription skincare, launched in 2018 and has been a huge success ever since (monthly subscribers have doubled in the last two years). Simple and hassle-free, “you complete an online consultation before our expert dermatology team prescribes your personalized formula,” explains Dr. Sharma. These formulas can treat everything from acne and pigmentation to rosacea and fine lines with prescription ingredients (like tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, ivermectin). Prices start from £18.67 per bottle.
2. Skin + Me
Coming onto the personalized skin care scene in 2020, Skin + Me is another virtual service with the same goal of democratizing dermatology. The team of consultant dermatologists and pharmacists treat acne, pigmentation, rosacea and fine lines with specially blended creams containing prescription-only ingredients (such as clindamycin and tretinoin) and other active ingredients (such as niacinamide). Packaged in a recyclable aluminum tube, a monthly supply of the ‘Daily Doser’ costs £29.99 and the smart tube dispenses the perfect amount every time to ensure no product is wasted.
3. And Begin
“When we studied the habits and feedback of hundreds of thousands of Skin + Me consumers, we realized that midlife women needed more from their formulations,” says Dr Cunningham of the catalyst for creating And Begin (due to launch this year). “It became clear that this consumer wanted to enjoy the superior skin benefits of prescription ingredients in a personalized product appropriate for their life stage.” The process is similar – an online consultation is followed by a prescription serum costing £39.99 a month – but the ingredients vary slightly and target firmness, radiance, even skin tone and hydration.
4. get harley
Not a personalized skincare brand per se, GetHarley is a platform that connects you with the UK’s best clinicians for expert skincare advice. To get started, simply answer an online survey about your skin concerns/goals before being matched with a clinician (be it an aesthetic doctor, plastic surgeon, dermatologist, or expert facialist). You’ll then have the opportunity to talk about your skin, whether you need advice on a specific condition (like rosacea or acne) or help creating a routine that works for you. A 30-minute virtual consultation starts from £40.
5. Klira
Dr Craythorne saw a gap in the market for luxury skincare with prescription ingredients. “As a dermatologist, I knew I could develop truly medical-grade formulas for people who could benefit.” It developed an at-home assessment tool for patients during the pandemic, and Klira has since been able to offer these personalized custom formulas at scale. Priced at £49 for a four-week supply, the special formula – ‘Klira special’ – contains a combination of soothing ingredients and prescription actives designed to suit your skin’s needs.
6. rude
Another personalized skin service, Uncouth, starts with a medical skin survey and ends with a bi-monthly delivery of a bespoke cream (this costs £48.50). The cream is based on a blend of moisturizing ingredients, including vitamin E and triglycerides to support the skin’s barrier. The base is then added with prescription-only actives to target individual concerns. As well as creams, Uncouth can also prescribe oral medications (as needed) from £15 per month.
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