I was on the edge of a cliff in Yorkshire, surrounded by strangers, peering into a high-powered telescope, gasping and squealing with unbridled excitement.
“For God’s sake, this is the greatest passion of her life,” my 21-year-old daughter explained with all the smug compassion of youth. “Look at him, he finally sees his first seagull. How sweet?”
A wave of applause rose from our small group gathered on the white sea cliffs of the gloriously sunny RSPB reserve at Bempton. Yes, there was a lot of murmuring that this was an extremely special moment.
It was especially so for me. For years I have missed seeing the annual arrival of Britain’s 580,000 pairs of puffins, which arrive on our shores to breed from mid-April and leave again in August.
I was too late at Lunga Island off the Isle of Mull; It’s too early for the Isles of Scilly. I even went to the Faroe Islands to see them right after quarantine, but the birding cruise was canceled due to stormy weather.
This year I was determined to cross these little clowns of the sea off my bucket list. From where? Just look at them.
Both funny and serious, these little birds (with stout, bright beaks, just 11 inches tall) can live for more than 20 years and mate for life. They nest underground in burrows on islands free of mammalian predators; and where available (including the mainland), they cling to the rock face to raise and raise their young; These are called puppies. Yes really.
I wasn’t the only newcomer to Bempton that day. Thanks to Wild IslandsIn Sir David Attenborough’s epic love letter to the beauty and grandeur of Britain, a new generation of visitors has turned their gaze to the UK’s wealth of wildlife. The seagulls made a complete star turn as they were shown on screen fighting off black-headed gulls who tried to take away the sandeel they had hunted before reaching the safety of their nests.
But this Wild Islands The images of Sir David getting up close and personal with them on the Farne Islands off the coast of Northumberland, home to nearly 200,000 seabirds, were particularly irresistible. The bird flu outbreak caused these islands to be closed to visitors last year, but luckily it’s business as usual this year.
But Bempton is always open as visitors watch the birds from designated viewing platforms at a safe distance. Although puffin numbers are relatively modest – around 500 pairs nest along the Yorkshire coast – there are many other bird species, including gannets, primitive cormorants and the stunningly beautiful razorbills, to keep you entertained when puffins are scarce.
The more we learned about each breed, the more fascinating each one seemed.
“If you see a rugby ball flying, it’s a crime,” the RSPB volunteer explained. “If it looks like a tennis ball flying, it’s a seagull.”
Then – still full of joy and adrenaline – the seagull effect was in full effect. I went a bit crazy in the gift shop (I managed to limit myself to a mug, a fridge magnet and – oh okay then – a Christmas decoration); I then booked tickets for the RSPB boat leaving from nearby Bridlington in the afternoon.
With a few hours left to kill, we decided to return to our accommodation – the nearby cottages at High Barn – to explore the welcome basket and take a brief respite from the peak wildlife.
But then we discovered the owl camera. Trained on a nesting box in which a pair of barn owls were raising their young, the camera was installed on the outside wall of the lodge and wired to broadcast its images directly to a dedicated channel on the television. We soon became completely addicted. In the future, I’m not sure I want to stay somewhere that won’t let me live watch tiny dead rodents being torn apart and fed to greedy chicks while I drink my morning coffee.
But nature wasn’t done with us yet. Later, on the boat trip, a pod of eight dolphins, including a calf, joined us with a magnificent performance; For 10 glorious minutes he rode the waves, turned, raced and tail-walked, as cliff-high walkers stopped to watch.
“It’s almost enough to outpace the seagulls,” said the astonished captain. We nodded in agreement that it was very special indeed. But deep down I knew nothing could outshine a seagull circus.
Fundamentals
Judith Woods was a guest of luxury self-catering cottage company Heritage Escapes (01262 674932; heritage-escapes.co.uk) and stayed there Hayloft At the High Barn in Bempton (three-night minimum stay; from £570) with its own owl camera.
The six best places to spot puffins in the UK
Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Skomer, along with its neighbor Skokholm Island, has a large breeding puffin colony; According to the last count in March, this number was 42,500. Exposed headlands and high offshore rocks make this a haven for all nesting birds, so visitors walk on designated paths to avoid damaging the intricate tunnels just below the surface. You can even stay a night in a three-star hostel run by the South and West Wales Wildlife Trust.
Hotel at Tŷ Mitford Waterfront (01646 400810; ty-hotels.com) has pairs from £100.
Farne Islands, Northumberland
Sir David Attenborough’s favorite spot for wildlife viewing in the UK lies a few miles up the coast from the fishing village of Seahouses. Besides the large population of puffins, there are also razorbills, guillemots and seals. You can visit the National Trust site or take boat tours around it.
Beadnell Towers Hotel (01665 721211; beadnelltowers.co.uk) has pairs from £183.
Rathlin Island, Northern Ireland
Here you can find Northern Ireland’s largest seabird colony, including hundreds of pairs of puffins. A ferry from Ballycastle takes visitors on a six-mile journey to Rathlin, followed by a bus to the RSPB Seabird Centre, next to an “inverted” lighthouse; It’s an engineering marvel with a light at the bottom to cut through the fog. .
Glass Island Boutique Bed and Breakfast (07800 889863; glassislandballycastle.com) Pairs are available from £146.
Isle of May, Scotland
Boat trips to the Isle of May, at the mouth of the Firth of Forth, depart from Anstruther in Fife and North Berwick in East Lothian. In early summer, the cliffs come alive with the spectacular sights and sounds of seabirds and seagulls darting in and out of their nests.
Bank in Anstruther (01333 310189; thebank-anstruther.co.uk) has pairs from £110.
Head of Sumburgh, Shetland
With craggy cliffs, a historic lighthouse and cacophonous seabird colonies, Sumburgh’s RSPB precinct lives up to many expectations. Besides seagulls, you’re also likely to see minke whales, orcas, and dolphins. During the winter months when the seagulls are long gone, this is also the best place to see the Northern Lights in Britain.
Sumburgh Hotel (01950 460201; sumburghhotel.com) has pairs from £140.
Flamborough Cliffs, East Yorkshire
Just a stroll from Bempton Cliffs, these erosive chalk caves, holes and heaps provide the perfect environment for breeding gulls, auks, gannets and gulls. Chalk grasslands are also rich in wildflowers that attract large numbers of butterflies and unusual moths.
Flamborough Manor (01262 850943; flamboroughmanor.co.uk) Pairs are available from £125.