Chances are, the new season’s hottest coat is hanging in your closet. Or, more accurately, in your boot room. That’s because the style that’s set to dominate this fall is the barn coat—a boxy, waxed jacket with deep pockets and a velvet collar, worn in a hurry for a muddy dog walk or an outdoor errand. Alexa Chung has been a poster girl for this look since the 2000s, popularizing it as festival wear and launching a collaboration with Barbour; while Dua Lipa is a recent convert, wearing hers on a recent vacation in the UK.
One fan of the original stable jacket is Ali Stearn, a mother of two who lives on a farm in Norfolk. “I live in mine,” says Stearn, who travels around the country with her miniature pony, Mr Jack Brock. “I like that it has pockets big enough to hold horse feed and baling twine for emergencies. It’s also great for taking your dog to the pub, with pockets big enough for a water bottle, dog collar and riding gloves. They also clean up nicely for other backcountry activities. I’ve had my Chrysalis field jacket for 15 years!”
Thanks to its origins in 19th-century rural France and the English donkey coat (less stylishly), the stable coat, also known as the French workman’s coat, has been a rural wardrobe staple for over a century. But they probably never expected it to get a high-fashion makeover on the catwalk, with Prada, Loewe and The Row elevating the farming staple with luxe fabrics and stylish details like leather linings and embossed logos.
Meanwhile, contemporary brands such as The Frankie Shop and Dôen have offered their own interpretations, with the latter’s £428 Pascual jacket already sold out, with a waiting list for all sizes in the wicker colourway and a waiting list for everything except the XXL in a dark olive colourway, described on its website as “reminiscent of an old style worn by Margaret and Katherine” [the founders] For a dad in Santa Barbara, they suggest wearing it with a “butterfly slash-cut skirt and light cashmere layers” for the perfect way to combine business attire and feminine details.
Stylist Florrie Thomas is one of the newer adopters of the look, and recently discovered a gorgeous navy style on ASOS, which she’s been wearing all summer when the weather has been bad. “When The Row, Jonathan Anderson or Miuccia Prada speak, people listen,” says Thomas. “This is another slightly sleek, classic piece that’s having a moment. It’s also an evolution of the canvas work jacket, if that’s a word, that’s super easy to wear through the seasons! There’s also a heritage feel to some of the more waxed versions – almost a reworking of a classic Barbour – and contemporary designers love to look to British heritage for inspiration.”
For Thomas, a barn coat is a smart investment piece because of its versatility – it can be worn with just about anything. “I’m increasingly looking to invest in simple, hardworking pieces that are the cornerstone of my wardrobe and can be mixed and matched,” she says. “I don’t know if it’s age or having children, but where I used to gravitate towards statement pieces or floral dresses, I’m increasingly looking for simple, effortless yet chic pieces that are easy to put together. I think it’s a less over-the-top style.”
If you want to avoid looking like you’re doing a farm cosplay, it’s important to think about what you’re wearing them with. “I think it’s partly about choosing one with a simple design and partly about how you wear it,” advises Thomas. “If you don’t want to look like you’re going on a team chase, don’t wear them with boots, riding breeches and a neck scarf. Instead, layer them over T-shirts and wide-leg linen trousers, or take a cue from Prada and pair them with unexpected evening wear. I find mine useful for toning down feminine dresses – Dôen’s version and campaign are perfect for this – and when I want to dress very simply and effortlessly, they look great with jeans, a leather belt and a T-shirt.”
As well as high-end and high street versions, Vinted and Depop are also treasure troves of second-hand finds, and you can find great deals from brands like Carhartt and LL Bean for as little as £20. Or just pop your existing one out and give it a clean – with the right care, a wax jacket can last for decades.
Barbour recommends using a soft-bristled brush to remove dirt, dust and excess wax, before using a cold water sponge or moleskin cloth to wipe down the outside of the jacket, then spot-treating the stains with white vinegar. Then hang the jacket to dry in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight and heat sources. If you think it needs re-waxing, Barbour also sells a DIY wax option on its website for £12.95. Worried about damaging it if you do it yourself? There’s also a repair and re-wax service you can book online, which costs from £35 – that’s around £3,000 less than a new Prada.
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