Now let’s start with the question everyone asks. Are skinny jeans dead? This is the pressing denim issue of the moment, so I’ll dive right in and answer that first. Are you sitting comfortably?
Yes. That’s the whole answer. Yes, skinny jeans are definitely out of fashion. Ok thanks. Bye now.
I’m kidding. There’s nothing wrong with skinny. If you want to wear them, you are completely free to do so. Hey, wear a bowler hat if you want. Or a fussy dress. Why not a powdered wig? You’re doing! Fashion is not mandatory. So, are skinny jeans still in fashion? No they are not. I don’t really see their deaths as a tragedy, or even as a cautionary tale about the impermanence of fashion. They stayed in the sun for two decades after Y2K started, which is a good shot. And barely-there-on-the-nose jeans are a simple way to mark your fashion credentials.
You asked.
What’s fascinating about the anxiety over the demise of skinny jeans is how important it is to us. It points out that having a pair of jeans that we feel confident in seems like an important thing. We’re emotionally attached to our favorite jeans, so we panic when fashion changes the rules. The moment you find a great pair of jeans is like the moment you find the brand’s signature lipstick: You feel like you’re winning at life, because the right jeans, like the perfect lipstick, are a great thing to have in your toolbox.
Just like lipsticks, there are classic jeans that work for most of us, but there’s no one-size-fits-all style. My perfect jeans may not necessarily be your perfect jeans. What about strategies for finding the right jeans? These, my friends, are one size fits all. All the questions and answers you need are here.
How to choose a style
When skinny jeans ruled the world, life was extremely simple because we didn’t have to think about what style of jeans to wear. On the other hand, if you find skinny jeans uncomfortable or don’t look good on you, you’re kind of stuck. Now the situation has changed. As well as skinny styles, we also have a surprising-sounding range of looser jeans, from horseshoe to carrot, which can be confusing. But the good news is that you have a chance to find the silhouette that suits you.
How much fashion energy do you want your denim to bring? This is not a trick question. Fashion’s bleeding edge isn’t necessarily the best place to choose. If you want the first word that comes to people’s minds when you enter a room to be “fashion”, you need horseshoe jeans as soon as possible.
Horseshoe jeans, also known as barrel legs, are the most fashionable silhouette right now. This is the shape displayed in the window of every store you’ll pass this weekend, because the goal of a fashion brand’s window is to be as trendy as possible.
But is it so? I’m not being funny, but I’m a fashion editor and even I don’t want the word “fashionable” to come to people’s minds when I walk into a room. Chic would be great. Interesting? Pleasant. But also, to be honest, I’d rather you be seen as a “normal person” rather than a “fashionista.” In other words, I don’t think more is necessarily better when it comes to fashion energy. The most fashionable jeans are not necessarily the most stylish jeans. And any jeans that are “free” from the leg (fashion means not clinging to them) will be read as modern right now, so don’t stress if you’re feeling silly in exaggerated ways.
To narrow down your search, you need to know your terms. “Waist” is the measurement from the crotch seam to the top button, so high-waist (or high-waisted) jeans have a waistband that extends all the way to your belly button; low-rise jeans will only cover your panties; mid-rise sits somewhere in between. Wide leg is exactly that. While flares widen below the knee, the boot cut is slim down to below the knee and then flares out. The kick flare is a slightly cropped boot cut that ends at the ankle. “Carrot” jeans are quite wide at the hips and thighs, tapering towards the narrow ankle. Horseshoe shapes resemble carrots but are not as narrow at the ankle.
How to find your size?
Jeans sizes are determined by waist circumference, so if your smallest waist is 28 inches, size 28 jeans should fit; this is roughly a uk size 10. However, this doesn’t take into account your waist-to-hip ratio. Also, depending on your body shape, you may find that a smaller size works well when you wear low-rise jeans, but is difficult to do when you wear high-waisted jeans.
Whether you’re shopping online or on the high street, grab a tape measure and note your numbers. If you have a pair of jeans that you like the fit of but don’t like the leg shape, measure your waist and hips; This is more reliable since the jeans do not breathe when you take out the tape measure. If you don’t have jeans that work for you, measure your body.
Besides the waist measurement, you also need the waist measurement: this is the distance from the crotch to two fingers below your belly button, if you are measuring on yourself; It’s the ideal waistband spot for most of us. Also measure the inside of the leg; For maximum versatility, I aim for a length that’s slightly off the ground when I wear it with flats so it looks good with heels, too.
Most online retailers are getting much better at providing comprehensive metrics as they try to wean us out of our returns habit; Therefore, it is worth exploring the “more details” sections to find as much information as possible. If I’m shopping at the store, I carry a tape measure with me with the measurements I’m looking for; This way I can measure the jeans at the store and not have to bother with the fitting room unless I’m sure they’re worth the time. Another option is to buy your jeans from a brand like M&S that uses traditional women’s clothing sizing. I’m a fan of the High Waisted Smart Wide Leg Jeans (£39.50): these have a permanent front pleat, which is an effective way to make wide-leg jeans look more tailored and streamlined, and are available in indigo, black and light-white.
hard or Negative?
I always nag you to buy the smallest size you can squeeze in because most fabrics are tight and don’t look tight. The size that looks best in a tailoring or slip dress is often one size larger than the size you want to “fit.” Jeans are an exception to this rule.
If you’re shopping online and can’t feel the fabric, look for 12-13oz denim: this will hold its shape without being too stiff. (The measurement refers to the weight of one square meter of fabric.) In terms of hand feel, this is the weight of classic jeans such as Levi’s 501s; It’s not like jeggings, but it’s not as stiff as those crispy Japanese indigo denims. This weight will be enough to provide an inch of softening where needed around the waist and hips—but more importantly, no more—when you button up a pair that feels a little tight. Denim at this weight has enough structure to hold a silhouette and tends to be the best option for a straight body; because it will give you classic, authentic-feeling jeans that keep their shape. But if you have a small waist and large hips, traditional denim can leave an awkward gap at the back of your waist. Hourglass body shapes often benefit from some stretching. Jeans brand Good American (currently available at John Lewis) is a good choice for the classic denim feel but stretchy enough to stretch happily with your curves.
How to shop for vintage jeans
I have a tip for you here and it’s not original at all but I don’t care because it’s the truth. There’s a reason Levi’s 501s are stone-cold classics. Actually, there are several reasons. First of all, they make your butt look nice. Second, the classic leg shape works with a sneaker, a court shoe, a flat resort sandal… Whatever you throw at it, it can handle it. The shape of the 501 has changed slightly over the years, so if you have a few pairs in your size, try them both on. Don’t worry too much about leg length. If they’re already a well-loved pair of jeans, it usually works to cut them lengthwise with scissors and roughen up the raw edge with a metal nail file, no need for a tailor.
How to shop for jeans sustainably?
Sustainability is a complex picture when it comes to denim, but everyone agrees on the most important rule: Don’t buy more than you need, and consider pre-loved or upcycled options. ELV Denim designs and manufactures new jeans in the most sought-after silhouettes from old jeans destined for landfill in London; By combining two colors, it becomes a feature of upcycling.
If you buy new jeans, look for renewably grown cotton: Citizens of Humanity’s relaxed-fit, cropped Dahlia jeans (£310) are lovely. For a cheaper alternative, Reformation’s Alyssa High Rise Wide Leg jeans (£168) are made from a blend of Tencel and cotton, which are made from rapidly renewable eucalyptus trees and use 20% less water than cotton. Danish brand MUD jeans are pioneering circular jeans, made from 40% post-consumer (destined for landfill) denim. (I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the option to rent rather than buy a pair of MUDs (for around £8 a month and which you return or swap for a new style after a year) will be available in the UK soon.)
If you buy cheaper high street jeans, be wary of light washes, which often use large amounts of water; darkness is a safer bet.
How often should you wash them?
Not as often as you think. This isn’t a t-shirt or a pair of socks that will require you to worry about odor issues. Hardline denim lovers recommend wearing a pair of jeans 10 times before washing them so that they take on the shadow and “whisker” (faded) marks of not only your body but also what you keep in your pockets. lines that resemble the shadow of wrinkles) are specific to the way you sit. I’m not ready to wear it 10 times yet, but I’m aiming to wear it at least three. When you wear a new pair, try to wait as long as possible before washing them for the first time to give the jeans a chance to shape up to you. To preserve the color, wash inside out and hang to dry. Not only is infrequent washing and no tumble drying better for the environment, it’s also better for your jeans. You know that lint left in your dryer? It’s literally part of your clothes, so every time you throw them in the dryer you shorten their life.
Photographer: David Newby. Style editor: Melanie Wilkinson. Styling assistant: Sam Deaman. Makeup: Sophie Higginson uses By Sarah London and Westman Atelier. Hair: Rom Sartipi using Oribe. Models: Lucy Knell and Bliss at Milk; Frankie in Mrs. Robinson